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                    <h1>How To guide</h1>
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                    <div align="right"><b><font size="3"><span class="write"><b><font color="#CC9900">&gt;&gt;</font></b> 
                      &nbsp;Pages&nbsp; <a href="vacuum-bagging.htm">1</a> &nbsp;<font color="#CC9900">2</font>&nbsp; 
                      <a href="vacuum-bagging-3.htm">3</a>&nbsp; <a href="vacuum-bagging-4.htm">4</a>&nbsp; 
                      <a href="vacuum-bagging-5.htm">5</a>&nbsp; <a href="vacuum-bagging-6.htm">6</a></span></font></b><b><font size="3"><span class="write"><b><font size="3"><span class="write"><b><font size="3">&nbsp;<span class="write"><font color="#CC9900"> 
                      </font><a href="vacuum-bagging-7.htm">7</a></span></font></b></span>&nbsp;</font></b></span></font></b></div>
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                    <h1>Vacuum Bagging a High-Performance Wing</h1>
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                          <p class="write"><b>Getting started</b></p>
                          <p>The first order of business is to clear off your 
                            workbench. I mean sand it down, wipe the particles 
                            and blow all the dust off. The reason is that any 
                            debris or glue boogers that you have there will tear 
                            up your delicate skins when you are assembling and 
                            sanding them.</p>
                          <p>Take your 36&quot; metal ruler and trim the edges 
                            of the sheet you will be joining to make your skins. 
                            They look straight, but are usually 1/8&quot; or so 
                            warped. Once trimmed, lay them on wax paper and use 
                            CA glue to butt-tack them in spots rubbing the glue 
                            as you go. Do this in 4&quot; intervals, just enough 
                            to keep the sheets together while you handle them.</p>
                          <p> Sand both sides of your skins until they are baby-smooth. 
                            There are two secrets in making a light wing. One 
                            of them is to sand the balsa until it's baby smooth 
                            so it won't absorb as much of the resin later on.</p>
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                          <p class="write">&nbsp;</p>
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                        <td width="318"><img src="vacuum-bagging/skins.jpg" width="300" height="225" border="1"></td>
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                          <p>When your skins are sanded, cut out a pattern that 
                            is larger than the core blanks that you are bagging. 
                            I like to make my skins overlap by &frac14;&quot; 
                            on the LE and tips, and 5/8 or so at the TE. The TE 
                            is longer because a lot of glue ends up there after 
                            being bagged-you get to trim it off rather than keep 
                            all the extra weight. This is as much as .3oz, so 
                            plan accordingly when making your skins! There is 
                            a limit though, if TE is too long, it will warp badly 
                            in the bag and be a pain to carve and shape properly. 
                            I'll explain what to do later if this happens.</p>
                          <p></p>
                          <p> Mark your top skin now for the position of the fiberglass 
                            pieces if you are using any.</p>
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                        <td width="318"><img src="images/shim.gif" width="318" height="4">&nbsp;</td>
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                        <td valign="top" width="310">The wing we are making here 
                          has a straight TE. This makes life easier for me because 
                          I get to tape the skins together in an envelope for 
                          easier handling. The tape also keeps the glue from getting 
                          on the inside of the bag, extending bag life.</td>
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                        <td width="318">&nbsp;</td>
                        <td valign="top" width="310">&nbsp;</td>
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                        <td valign="top" rowspan="2"><img src="vacuum-bagging/corebeds.jpg" width="300" height="225" border="1"></td>
                        <td valign="top" class="write" width="310" rowspan="2"> 
                          <p>Assemble the core - beds - into the proper pairs 
                            with masking tape. The upper and lower cores will 
                            keep the wing straight and compressed evenly in the 
                            bagger, and later serve as a sanding/drilling jig, 
                            and shipping protection. You'll want to handle the 
                            cured wing as little as possible once cured because 
                            its easy to dent is when getting frisky with the sanding 
                            tools. If at all possible, perform as many operations 
                            as you can with the cured wing sitting in the cradles.</p>
                          <p>Also note since you are bagging this wing in one 
                            piece, the dihedral of your wing is determined by 
                            your cores-not your spar. When you place the wing 
                            in the bag, the vacuum pump could not care less if 
                            there is a spar sticking out through the skins! For 
                            this reason, trial fit the spar in the cores while 
                            the cores are in their beds and the cradles are on 
                            a flat surface. </p>
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                        <td colspan="2">&nbsp; </td>
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                        <td width="318">&nbsp;</td>
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                        <td colspan="2">If you have dihedral, the tips of the 
                          wing cores will be higher than the roots and the spar 
                          will be cut to the proper angles. You can't see it in 
                          the photos, but this wing has dihedral. The top of the 
                          wing is flat, the only dihedral it has is provided by 
                          the difference in root and tip core thickness. Just 
                          enough for stability, but not enough to pay a penalty 
                          when flying inverted.</td>
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                  <td width="324"><b><font size="3"><span class="write"><b><font color="#CC9900">&gt;&gt;</font></b> 
                    &nbsp;<a href="vacuum-bagging-3.htm">Next</a><b><font color="#CC9900"></font></b><b><font size="3"></font></b></span>&nbsp;</font></b></td>
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                    <div align="right"><b><font size="3"><span class="write"><b><font color="#CC9900">&gt;&gt;</font></b> 
                      &nbsp;Pages&nbsp; <a href="vacuum-bagging.htm">1</a> &nbsp;<font color="#CC9900">2</font>&nbsp; 
                      <a href="vacuum-bagging-3.htm">3</a>&nbsp; <a href="vacuum-bagging-4.htm">4</a>&nbsp; 
                      <a href="vacuum-bagging-5.htm">5</a>&nbsp; <a href="vacuum-bagging-6.htm">6</a></span></font></b><b><font size="3"><span class="write"><b><font size="3"><span class="write"><b><font size="3">&nbsp;<span class="write"><font color="#CC9900"> 
                      </font><a href="vacuum-bagging-7.htm">7</a></span></font></b></span>&nbsp;</font></b></span></font></b></div>
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        <div align="center"><font color="#000000"><font color="#000000"><font size="2" color="#CC9900">Home 
          of the Sliver 400, the US Nationals winning S400 pylon racer, specialists 
          in fast composite electric model planes<b>.</b></font></font><font size="2" color="#CC9900"></font></font></div>
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