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Subject: How we develop recipes
From: "Ottolenghi " <ottolenghi@substack.com>
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View this post on the web at https://ottolenghi.substack.com/p/how-we-devel=
op-recipes
I am aware I have the best job in the world.
I spend my days with a bunch of talented people - who always have a good id=
ea for dinner and a strong opinion on where to go eat. We all bounce ideas =
together, taste things and disagree about them, then taste them again and e=
ventually, mostly, agree.
I=E2=80=99m often asked how I keep coming up with new ideas after more than=
a decade of cookbooks. The honest answer is: I don=E2=80=99t - not alone, =
anyway. What I did help build, with a lot of other people, is a space I=E2=
=80=99m very, very proud of: the test kitchen - one of the most creative ro=
oms I=E2=80=99ve ever stood in.
On Simple Too, it was Verena, alongside Milli, who was the life behind so m=
any of the recipes - advocating new combinations, filling in gaps when need=
ed, coming up with clever ways of simplifying things further. Tara was the =
one tightening our thinking, pulling the strand together. And Claudine, tes=
ting every single recipe in a home kitchen, as she=E2=80=99s always done.
I=E2=80=99ve asked them all to share some thoughts of their own, so I can t=
ake you through the process properly.
Verena Lochmuller is my co-author on Simple Too - a chef of real precision =
and one of the most creative perfectionists I know. What she cooks in the t=
est kitchen is often connected to what she=E2=80=99s cooking at home, which=
is exactly the point. The banana and tahini granola migrated naturally fro=
m her own cupboards onto the book.
Milli Taylor [ https://substack.com/redirect/cedec576-4d46-4a4a-ad88-c72eb4=
f30dce?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA =
] also developed many recipes to this book; Her benchmark: would my sister =
make this?
=E2=80=9CI have the luxury of cooking for a living, with no dependents, whe=
reas she has a demanding job and teenage kids at home. When she=E2=80=99s f=
inished work, what can I realistically see her cooking for dinner? That bec=
ame my benchmark for simplicity.=E2=80=9D
Milli would often drop Tupperware on Verena=E2=80=99s doorstep - leftovers =
from something she=E2=80=99d eaten out, or a dish she=E2=80=99d been playin=
g with and wanted another set of taste buds on. When Milli was parboiling t=
he potatoes for the soy tahini wedges, Verena tried steaming them instead. =
Such a simple change but made it all the more delicious.
=E2=80=9CSometimes something magic happens when the pressure is off,=E2=80=
=9D Milli said. The urfa butter beans, for example, came to be when she was=
hungover on a weekend and needed something comforting. Half a jar of butte=
r beans, Turkish pepper paste, butter, cream, a pinch of urfa, poured all o=
ver toast.
Once a recipe feels ready - or ready enough - it leaves our kitchen and goe=
s to Claudine.
Claudine [ https://substack.com/redirect/6b678e6c-7354-4fb2-a106-7c1ba51b34=
1c?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA ] ha=
s been testing our recipes for nearly twenty years, first in London, now fr=
om rural Wales. Her household - her kids, her mother-in-law, her neighbours=
- has become an unofficial tasting panel of people who have absolutely no =
reason to be polite.
She is so methodical. She reminds us to tell people to peel a vegetable, to=
explain the things we do on autopilot. She knows exactly what an Ottolengh=
i recipe should feel like. If something isn=E2=80=99t quite there, she=E2=
=80=99ll say so.
=E2=80=9CWhen I test a recipe, I=E2=80=99m looking for great =E2=80=98wow=
=E2=80=99 flavour, clear instructions, beautiful results and a method that =
feels easy. Simple means someone can cook with confidence and get great res=
ults with no stress. The hardest part is giving honest feedback when someth=
ing isn=E2=80=99t quite right, especially knowing how much work has gone in=
to creating the recipe. But everyone shares the same goal: making every rec=
ipe the very best it can be.=E2=80=9D
Her feedback comes with its own vocabulary. When Claudine says something is=
nice, it isn=E2=80=99t very good. When she says wow - when she says extrao=
rdinary, the best I=E2=80=99ve ever had - you know you=E2=80=99ve got somet=
hing. We live for the wow.
Then, it=E2=80=99s over to Tara.
Tara Wigley [ https://substack.com/redirect/77b5979d-6a21-42f4-970b-26eaf6b=
b2c2c?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA ]=
edits every recipe in the book into something a home cook can easily follo=
w - spotting the things the rest of us can=E2=80=99t, because we=E2=80=99re=
too close to the cooking. Do we say =E2=80=9Croast=E2=80=9D or =E2=80=9Cba=
ke=E2=80=9D and stick to one? Do we need to say =E2=80=9Cblack pepper=E2=80=
=9D when there=E2=80=99s no other kind in the recipe? Every word is interro=
gated and every instruction questioned.
=E2=80=9CThe shape of a recipe can be determined by all sorts of things: a =
moment of inspiration; a more prosaic concern with what=E2=80=99s going to =
work on a Monday night, at home, after a long day at work. It takes a while=
for the shape - or the story - of a cookbook to emerge. We can start off w=
ith a guiding principle - in this case, simple cooking - but what that ends=
up meaning will change many times over. This =E2=80=98not knowing=E2=80=99=
is both the great freedom we feel in creating an Ottolenghi cookbook and, =
at the same time, the thing which keeps us nervous - or hungry - and on our=
toes.=E2=80=9D
A recipe can go through two rounds of testing or five or ten. Some get cut =
entirely - too similar to something else or not quite landing the way it sh=
ould. The question we keep coming back to is always the same: would we cook=
it at home, for ourselves, for our friends?
If the answer is yes, it stays. If not, it goes.
So many hands and opinions and versions of the same dish. And it=E2=80=99s =
all part of the delicious chaos.
To show you what I mean, below is one recipe from the book, from first draf=
t to final print =E2=80=93 all the drafts, notes, questions and changes. Th=
e Butternut =E2=80=9Cparmigiana=E2=80=9D [ https://substack.com/redirect/db=
74904c-9f11-4322-8840-4d746b4600a3?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94=
WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA ] started life with a vegan nduja called ve-du-=
ja [ https://substack.com/redirect/beca4fdc-558f-4cf1-aa26-c42785713ed1?j=
=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA ], a rec=
ent discovery of Verena=E2=80=99s that was meaty and deeply flavoured and w=
onderful. That eventually gave way, as ingredients sometimes do, to somethi=
ng more universally accessible: tomato paste, a touch of sugar, and quite a=
different recipe underneath.
Outside the people, the secrets are: access to Google Docs (yes, we too sta=
rt there - rather unglamorously), copious amounts of olive oil, etc..
Unsubscribe https://substack.com/redirect/2/eyJlIjoiaHR0cHM6Ly9vdHRvbGVuZ2h=
pLnN1YnN0YWNrLmNvbS9hY3Rpb24vZGlzYWJsZV9lbWFpbD90b2tlbj1leUoxYzJWeVgybGtJam=
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VMw?
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body .markup .tweet .tweet-photos-container.two,
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ss=3D"preview" style=3D"display:none;font-size:1px;color:#333333;line-heigh=
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a></h1><h3 class=3D"subtitle subtitle-HEEcLo" dir=3D"auto" style=3D"directi=
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;">How a cookbook is made, Part 3</h3><table class=3D"post-meta" role=3D"pr=
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ont-weight: 500;text-transform: uppercase;letter-spacing: .2px;text-decorat=
ion: none" href=3D"https://substack.com/@ottolenghi">Yotam Ottolenghi</a></=
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Arial,sans-serif,'Apple Color Emoji','Segoe UI Emoji','Segoe UI Symbol';fon=
t-weight: 500;text-transform: uppercase;letter-spacing: .2px;"><time dateti=
me=3D"2026-08-04T15:09:04.167Z">Aug 4</time></div></td></tr></tbody></table=
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ine-height: 12px;padding: 9px 14px;text-decoration: none;color: rgb(119,119=
,119);"><div class=3D"email-button-spacer" style=3D"font-size: 16px;line-he=
ight: 26px;display: inline-block;vertical-align: middle;max-width: 0;min-he=
ight: 18px;"></div><span class=3D"email-button-text" style=3D"vertical-alig=
n: middle;margin-right: 4px">READ IN APP</span><img class=3D"icon text-icon=
" src=3D"https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!ET-_!,w_36,c_scale,f_png,q=
_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack.com%2Ficon%2FLucideA=
rrowUpRight%3Fv%3D4%26height%3D36%26fill%3Dnone%26stroke%3D%2523808080%26st=
rokeWidth%3D2" width=3D"18" height=3D"18" style=3D"min-width: 18px;min-heig=
ht: 18px;border: none;vertical-align: middle;margin-right: 0;margin-left: 0=
;max-width: 18px" alt=3D""></a></td></tr></tbody></table></td></tr></tbody>=
</table></td></tr></tbody></table></td></tr><tr height=3D"16"><td height=3D=
"16" style=3D"font-size:0px;line-height:0;"> </td></tr></tbody></table=
></div></div><div class=3D"post typography" dir=3D"auto" style=3D"--image-o=
ffset-margin: -120px;padding: 32px 0 0 0;font-size: 16px;line-height: 26px;=
"><div class=3D"body markup" dir=3D"auto" style=3D"text-align: initial;font=
-size: 16px;line-height: 26px;width: 100%;word-break: break-word;margin-bot=
tom: 16px;font-family: 'SF Pro Display', -apple-system, system-ui, BlinkMac=
SystemFont, 'Inter', 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif, 'App=
le Color Emoji', 'Segoe UI Emoji', 'Segoe UI Symbol';font-weight: 400;"><p =
style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-siz=
e: 16px;margin-top: 0;"><span>I am aware I have the best job in the world.<=
/span></p><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: =
26px;font-size: 16px;"><span>I spend my days with a bunch of talented peopl=
e - who always have a good idea for dinner and a strong opinion on where to=
go eat. We all bounce ideas together, taste things and disagree about them=
, then taste them again and eventually, mostly, agree.</span></p><p style=
=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16=
px;"><span>I’m often asked how I keep coming up with new ideas after =
more than a decade of cookbooks. The honest answer is: I don’t - not =
alone, anyway. What I did help build, with a lot of other people, is a spac=
e I’m very, very proud of: the test kitchen - one of the most creativ=
e rooms I’ve ever stood in.</span></p><div class=3D"captioned-image-c=
ontainer-static" style=3D"font-size: 16px;line-height: 26px;margin: 32px au=
to;"><figure style=3D"width: 100%;margin: 0 auto;"><table class=3D"image-wr=
apper" width=3D"100%" border=3D"0" cellspacing=3D"0" cellpadding=3D"0" data=
-component-name=3D"Image2ToDOMStatic" style=3D"mso-padding-alt: 1em 0 1.6em=
;"><tbody><tr><td style=3D"text-align: center;"></td><td class=3D"content" =
align=3D"left" width=3D"1456" style=3D"text-align: center;"><a class=3D"ima=
ge-link" target=3D"_blank" href=3D"https://substack.com/redirect/e6e30075-1=
b8d-4680-9a4a-812d6385ae13?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTc=
rDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA" style=3D"position: relative;flex-direction: column;ali=
gn-items: center;padding: 0;width: auto;height: auto;border: none;text-deco=
ration: none;display: block;margin: 0;"><img class=3D"wide-image" data-attr=
s=3D"{"src":"https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/pu=
blic/images/9b534d26-0f8f-4e07-907c-d4918f662a4c_5504x8256.jpeg","=
;srcNoWatermark":null,"fullscreen":null,"imageSize"=
;:null,"height":2184,"width":1456,"resizeWidth&quo=
t;:null,"bytes":5620335,"alt":null,"title":nu=
ll,"type":"image/jpeg","href":null,"belo=
wTheFold":false,"topImage":true,"internalRedirect"=
:"https://ottolenghi.substack.com/i/209108435?img=3Dhttps%3A%2F%2Fsubs=
tack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9b534d26-0f8f-4e07-907=
c-d4918f662a4c_5504x8256.jpeg","isProcessing":false,"al=
ign":null,"offset":false}" alt=3D"" width=3D"550" height=3D"=
825" src=3D"https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!VVO9!,w_1100,c_limit,f_=
auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.=
amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9b534d26-0f8f-4e07-907c-d4918f662a4c_5504=
x8256.jpeg" style=3D"border: none !important;vertical-align: middle;display=
: block;-ms-interpolation-mode: bicubic;height: auto;margin-bottom: 0;width=
: auto !important;max-width: 100% !important;margin: 0 auto;"></a></td><td =
style=3D"text-align: center;"></td></tr></tbody></table><figcaption class=
=3D"image-caption" style=3D"box-sizing: content-box;color: rgb(119,119,119)=
;font-size: 14px;line-height: 20px;font-weight: 400;letter-spacing: -.15px;=
margin-top: 8px;width: 70%;padding-left: 15%;padding-right: 15%;text-align:=
center;">Verena Lochmuller, photographed by Jonathan Lovekin</figcaption><=
/figure></div><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-heig=
ht: 26px;font-size: 16px;"><span>On Simple Too, it was Verena, alongside Mi=
lli, who was the life behind so many of the recipes - advocating new combin=
ations, filling in gaps when needed, coming up with clever ways of simplify=
ing things further. Tara was the one tightening our thinking, pulling the s=
trand together. And Claudine, testing every single recipe in a home kitchen=
, as she’s always done.</span></p><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;colo=
r: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;"><span>I’ve asked=
them all to share some thoughts of their own, so I can take you through th=
e process properly.</span></p><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,=
55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;"><span>Verena Lochmuller is my co=
-author on Simp</span><span>le Too - a chef of real precision and one of th=
e most creative perfectionists I know. What she cooks in the test kitchen i=
s often connected to what she’s cooking at home, which is exactly the=
point. The banana and tahini granola migrated naturally from her own cupbo=
ards onto the book.</span></p><div class=3D"captioned-image-container-stati=
c" style=3D"font-size: 16px;line-height: 26px;margin: 32px auto;"><figure s=
tyle=3D"width: 100%;margin: 0 auto;"><table class=3D"image-wrapper" width=
=3D"100%" border=3D"0" cellspacing=3D"0" cellpadding=3D"0" data-component-n=
ame=3D"Image2ToDOMStatic" style=3D"mso-padding-alt: 1em 0 1.6em;"><tbody><t=
r><td style=3D"text-align: center;"></td><td class=3D"content" align=3D"lef=
t" width=3D"1030" style=3D"text-align: center;"><a class=3D"image-link" tar=
get=3D"_blank" href=3D"https://substack.com/redirect/6c67fdba-a503-44a2-9ee=
f-642060d996df?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrN=
vyrpKXA" style=3D"position: relative;flex-direction: column;align-items: ce=
nter;padding: 0;width: auto;height: auto;border: none;text-decoration: none=
;display: block;margin: 0;"><img class=3D"wide-image" data-attrs=3D"{"=
src":"https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/=
f601e1a7-45e4-4f3f-988d-72cc5c012c68_1030x1080.png","srcNoWaterma=
rk":null,"fullscreen":null,"imageSize":null,"=
height":1080,"width":1030,"resizeWidth":null,"=
;bytes":2067575,"alt":null,"title":null,"type=
":"image/png","href":null,"belowTheFold"=
:false,"topImage":false,"internalRedirect":"https:=
//ottolenghi.substack.com/i/209108435?img=3Dhttps%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-med=
ia.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff601e1a7-45e4-4f3f-988d-72cc5c012c6=
8_1030x1080.png","isProcessing":false,"align":null=
,"offset":false}" alt=3D"" width=3D"550" height=3D"576.6990291262=
136" src=3D"https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!omq1!,w_1100,c_limit,f_=
auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.=
amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff601e1a7-45e4-4f3f-988d-72cc5c012c68_1030=
x1080.png" style=3D"border: none !important;vertical-align: middle;display:=
block;-ms-interpolation-mode: bicubic;height: auto;margin-bottom: 0;width:=
auto !important;max-width: 100% !important;margin: 0 auto;"></a></td><td s=
tyle=3D"text-align: center;"></td></tr></tbody></table><figcaption class=3D=
"image-caption" style=3D"box-sizing: content-box;color: rgb(119,119,119);fo=
nt-size: 14px;line-height: 20px;font-weight: 400;letter-spacing: -.15px;mar=
gin-top: 8px;width: 70%;padding-left: 15%;padding-right: 15%;text-align: ce=
nter;">Milli Taylor, photographed by Jonathan Lovekin</figcaption></figure>=
</div><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px=
;font-size: 16px;"><a href=3D"https://substack.com/redirect/cedec576-4d46-4=
a4a-ad88-c72eb4f30dce?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs=
6QySyrNvyrpKXA" style=3D"color: #cd001a;text-decoration: none;"><span>Milli=
Taylor</span></a><span> also developed many recipes to this book; Her benc=
hmark: would my sister make this?</span></p><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;=
color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;"><em><span>“I=
have the luxury of cooking for a living, with no dependents, whereas she h=
as a demanding job and teenage kids at home. When she’s finished work=
, what can I realistically see her cooking for dinner? That became my bench=
mark for simplicity.”</span></em></p><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;c=
olor: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;"><span>Milli would o=
ften drop Tupperware on Verena’s doorstep - leftovers from something =
she’d eaten out, or a dish she’d been playing with and wanted a=
nother set of taste buds on. When Milli was parboiling the potatoes for the=
soy tahini wedges, Verena tried steaming them instead. Such a simple chang=
e but made it all the more delicious.</span></p><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20p=
x 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;"><em><span>R=
20;Sometimes something magic happens when the pressure is off,”</span=
></em><span> Milli said. The urfa butter beans, for example, came to be whe=
n she was hungover on a weekend and needed something comforting. Half a jar=
of butter beans, Turkish pepper paste, butter, cream, a pinch of urfa, pou=
red all over toast.</span></p><p class=3D"button-wrapper" data-attrs=3D"{&q=
uot;url":"https://lnk.to/OttolenghiSimpleToo?utm_campaign=3Dbutto=
n_list_SIMPLETOOPreorderwhereveryouarethis","text":"PRE=
-ORDER SIMPLE TOO NOW","action":null,"class":"=
;button-wrapper"}" data-component-name=3D"ButtonCreateButton" style=3D=
"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;=
text-align: center;cursor: pointer;border-radius: 4px;"><a class=3D"button =
primary button-wrapper" href=3D"https://substack.com/redirect/8c936cc6-cb83=
-44f8-b458-a69e7200e805?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDR=
Ys6QySyrNvyrpKXA" style=3D"font-family: system-ui,-apple-system,BlinkMacSys=
temFont,'Segoe UI',Roboto,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif,'Apple Color Emoji','S=
egoe UI Emoji','Segoe UI Symbol';display: inline-block;box-sizing: border-b=
ox;border: none;font-size: 14px;line-height: 20px;font-weight: 600;margin: =
0;opacity: 1;outline: none;white-space: nowrap;color: #ffffff !important;te=
xt-decoration: none !important;text-align: center;cursor: pointer;border-ra=
dius: 4px;background-color: #cd001a;padding: 12px 20px;height: auto;"><span=
style=3D"color: #ffffff;text-decoration: none;">PRE-ORDER SIMPLE TOO NOW</=
span></a></p><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-heigh=
t: 26px;font-size: 16px;"><span>Once a recipe feels ready - or ready enough=
- it leaves our kitchen and goes to Claudine.</span></p><p style=3D"margin=
: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;"><a hr=
ef=3D"https://substack.com/redirect/6b678e6c-7354-4fb2-a106-7c1ba51b341c?j=
=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA" style=
=3D"color: #cd001a;text-decoration: none;"><span>Claudine</span></a><span> =
has been testing our recipes for nearly twenty years, first in London, now =
from rural Wales. Her household - her kids, her mother-in-law, her neighbou=
rs - has become an unofficial tasting panel of people who have absolutely n=
o reason to be polite.</span></p><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(=
54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;"><span>She is so methodical. S=
he reminds us to tell people to peel a vegetable, to explain the things we =
do on autopilot. She knows exactly what an Ottolenghi recipe should feel li=
ke. If something isn’t quite there, she’ll say so.</span></p><p=
style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-si=
ze: 16px;"><em><span>“When I test a recipe, I’m looking for gre=
at ‘wow’ flavour, clear instructions, beautiful results and a m=
ethod that feels easy. Simple means someone can cook with confidence and ge=
t great results with no stress. The hardest part is giving honest feedback =
when something isn’t quite right, especially knowing how much work ha=
s gone into creating the recipe. But everyone shares the same goal: making =
every recipe the very best it can be.”</span></em></p><p style=3D"mar=
gin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;"><s=
pan>Her feedback comes with its own vocabulary. When Claudine says somethin=
g is </span><em><span>nice</span></em><span>, it isn’t very good. Whe=
n she says </span><em><span>wow</span></em><span> - when she says </span><e=
m><span>extraordinary</span></em><span>, </span><em><span>the best I’=
ve ever had</span></em><span> - you know you’ve got something. We liv=
e for the </span><em><span>wow</span></em><span>.</span></p><p style=3D"mar=
gin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;"></=
p><div class=3D"captioned-image-container-static" style=3D"font-size: 16px;=
line-height: 26px;margin: 32px auto;"><figure style=3D"width: 100%;margin: =
0 auto;"><table class=3D"image-wrapper" width=3D"100%" border=3D"0" cellspa=
cing=3D"0" cellpadding=3D"0" data-component-name=3D"Image2ToDOMStatic" styl=
e=3D"mso-padding-alt: 1em 0 1.6em;"><tbody><tr><td style=3D"text-align: cen=
ter;"></td><td class=3D"content" align=3D"left" width=3D"1456" style=3D"tex=
t-align: center;"><a class=3D"image-link" target=3D"_blank" href=3D"https:/=
/substack.com/redirect/4ea3736f-dc61-487a-a30b-9f530df29c89?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMml=
sc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA" style=3D"position: re=
lative;flex-direction: column;align-items: center;padding: 0;width: auto;he=
ight: auto;border: none;text-decoration: none;display: block;margin: 0;"><i=
mg class=3D"wide-image" data-attrs=3D"{"src":"https://substa=
ck-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/133305d5-26a5-449b-8248-c7aa1d=
6a4681_5712x4284.jpeg","srcNoWatermark":null,"fullscree=
n":null,"imageSize":null,"height":1941,"width=
":1456,"resizeWidth":null,"bytes":4546612,"al=
t":"","title":null,"type":"image/jp=
eg","href":null,"belowTheFold":true,"topImage=
":false,"internalRedirect":"https://ottolenghi.substack=
=2Ecom/i/209108435?img=3Dhttps%3A%2F%2Fs=
ubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2=
Fpublic%2Fimages%2F133305d5-26a5-449b-8248-c7aa1d6a4681_5712x4284.jpeg"=
;,"isProcessing":false,"align":null,"offset":=
false}" alt=3D"" title=3D"" width=3D"550" height=3D"733.2074175824176" src=
=3D"https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Kmj6!,w_1100,c_limit,f_auto,q_a=
uto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaw=
s.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F133305d5-26a5-449b-8248-c7aa1d6a4681_5712x4284.jp=
eg" style=3D"border: none !important;vertical-align: middle;display: block;=
-ms-interpolation-mode: bicubic;height: auto;margin-bottom: 0;width: auto !=
important;max-width: 100% !important;margin: 0 auto;"></a></td><td style=3D=
"text-align: center;"></td></tr></tbody></table></figure></div><p style=3D"=
margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;"=
><span>Then, it’s over to Tara.</span></p><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20p=
x 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;"><a href=3D"htt=
ps://substack.com/redirect/77b5979d-6a21-42f4-970b-26eaf6bb2c2c?j=3DeyJ1Ijo=
iMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA" style=3D"color: #=
cd001a;text-decoration: none;"><span>Tara Wigley</span></a><span> edits eve=
ry recipe in the book into something a home cook can easily follow - spotti=
ng the things the rest of us can’t, because we’re too close to =
the cooking. Do we say “roast” or “bake” and stick =
to one? Do we need to say “black pepper” when there’s no =
other kind in the recipe? Every word is interrogated and every instruction =
questioned.</span></p><div class=3D"captioned-image-container-static" style=
=3D"font-size: 16px;line-height: 26px;margin: 32px auto;"><figure style=3D"=
width: 100%;margin: 0 auto;"><table class=3D"image-wrapper" width=3D"100%" =
border=3D"0" cellspacing=3D"0" cellpadding=3D"0" data-component-name=3D"Ima=
ge2ToDOMStatic" style=3D"mso-padding-alt: 1em 0 1.6em;"><tbody><tr><td styl=
e=3D"text-align: center;"></td><td class=3D"content" align=3D"left" width=
=3D"1456" style=3D"text-align: center;"><a class=3D"image-link" target=3D"_=
blank" href=3D"https://substack.com/redirect/49b96f9f-2994-424e-94d3-41d756=
425b6b?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA"=
style=3D"position: relative;flex-direction: column;align-items: center;pad=
ding: 0;width: auto;height: auto;border: none;text-decoration: none;display=
: block;margin: 0;"><img class=3D"wide-image" data-attrs=3D"{"src"=
;:"https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/99cc574a=
-50d2-4829-96f6-0d5a44b1553e_4563x6841.jpeg","srcNoWatermark"=
;:null,"fullscreen":null,"imageSize":null,"height&=
quot;:2183,"width":1456,"resizeWidth":null,"bytes&=
quot;:21755434,"alt":null,"title":null,"type"=
:"image/jpeg","href":null,"belowTheFold":true=
,"topImage":false,"internalRedirect":"https://otto=
lenghi.substack.com/i/209108435?img=3Dhttps%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.=
amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F99cc574a-50d2-4829-96f6-0d5a44b1553e_4563=
x6841.jpeg","isProcessing":false,"align":null,&quo=
t;offset":false}" alt=3D"" width=3D"550" height=3D"824.6222527472528" =
src=3D"https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!txDR!,w_1100,c_limit,f_auto,=
q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazo=
naws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F99cc574a-50d2-4829-96f6-0d5a44b1553e_4563x6841=
=2Ejpeg" style=3D"border: none !importan=
t;vertical-align: middle;display: blo=
ck;-ms-interpolation-mode: bicubic;height: auto;margin-bottom: 0;width: aut=
o !important;max-width: 100% !important;margin: 0 auto;"></a></td><td style=
=3D"text-align: center;"></td></tr></tbody></table><figcaption class=3D"ima=
ge-caption" style=3D"box-sizing: content-box;color: rgb(119,119,119);font-s=
ize: 14px;line-height: 20px;font-weight: 400;letter-spacing: -.15px;margin-=
top: 8px;width: 70%;padding-left: 15%;padding-right: 15%;text-align: center=
;">Tara Wigley</figcaption></figure></div><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;co=
lor: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;"><em><span>“The=
shape of a recipe can be determined by all sorts of things: a moment of in=
spiration; a more prosaic concern with what’s going to work on a Mond=
ay night, at home, after a long day at work. It takes a while for the shape=
- or the story - of a cookbook to emerge. We can start off with a guiding =
principle - in this case, simple cooking - but what that ends up meaning wi=
ll change many times over. This ‘not knowing’ is both the great=
freedom we feel in creating an Ottolenghi cookbook and, at the same time, =
the thing which keeps us nervous - or hungry - and on our toes.”</spa=
n></em></p><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height:=
26px;font-size: 16px;"><span>A recipe can go through two rounds of testing=
or five or ten. Some get cut entirely - too similar to something else or n=
ot quite landing the way it should. The question we keep coming back to is =
always the same: would we cook it at home, for ourselves, for our friends?<=
/span></p><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: =
26px;font-size: 16px;"><span>If the answer is yes, it stays. If not, it goe=
s.</span></p><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-heigh=
t: 26px;font-size: 16px;"><span>So many hands and opinions and versions of =
the same dish. And it’s all part of the delicious chaos.</span></p><p=
style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-si=
ze: 16px;"><span>To show you what I mean, below is one recipe from the book=
, from first draft to final print – all the drafts, notes, questions =
and changes. The </span><a href=3D"https://substack.com/redirect/db74904c-9=
f11-4322-8840-4d746b4600a3?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTc=
rDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA" style=3D"color: #cd001a;text-decoration: none;"><span>=
Butternut “parmigiana”</span></a><span> started life with a veg=
an nduja called </span><a href=3D"https://substack.com/redirect/beca4fdc-55=
8f-4cf1-aa26-c42785713ed1?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcr=
DRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA" style=3D"color: #cd001a;text-decoration: none;"><span>v=
e-du-ja</span></a><span>, a recent discovery of Verena’s that was mea=
ty and deeply flavoured and wonderful. That eventually gave way, as ingredi=
ents sometimes do, to something more universally accessible: tomato paste, =
a touch of sugar, </span><em><span>and </span></em><span>quite a different =
recipe underneath.</span></p><div class=3D"captioned-image-container-static=
" style=3D"font-size: 16px;line-height: 26px;margin: 32px auto;"><figure st=
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b4d7223024c?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyr=
pKXA" style=3D"position: relative;flex-direction: column;align-items: cente=
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":null,"fullscreen":null,"imageSize":null,"he=
ight":1000,"width":1000,"resizeWidth":null,"b=
ytes":1085649,"alt":null,"title":null,"type&q=
uot;:"image/jpeg","href":null,"belowTheFold":=
true,"topImage":false,"internalRedirect":"https://=
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F0752eff9-7483-4067-8f93-c82348811c5f_=
1000x1000.jpeg","isProcessing":false,"align":null,=
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0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;">Outsid=
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