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Subject: With onion, everything is better!
From: "Ottolenghi " <ottolenghi@substack.com>
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View this post on the web at https://ottolenghi.substack.com/p/with-onion-e=
verything-is-better
I follow Nigel Slater on Instagram [ https://substack.com/redirect/e323bc41=
-f7b2-4517-92b7-510a7991c4bf?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hV=
TcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA ] to be charmed. He=E2=80=99ll post a picture of a st=
rip of his garden going a bit wild, his breakfast, or a quiche he=E2=80=99s=
made, with a line like the =E2=80=98wisteria outside my kitchen holding ha=
nds with the fig tree=E2=80=99 - and he=E2=80=99s got me. He=E2=80=99s alwa=
ys had a lovely way with both words and food.
We share a photographer, as it happens - Jonathan Lovekin - who=E2=80=99s s=
hot most of my books and has worked with Nigel for even longer. They=E2=80=
=99re doing a joint interview for Vittles=E2=80=99 print magazine [ https:/=
/substack.com/redirect/7975029c-72d0-4d67-83da-ea54fe9eb3a7?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMml=
sc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA ], out later this mont=
h, which I very much look forward to reading.
Back in 2009, Nigel wrote a piece for the Guardian called Confessions of an=
Allium Addict. [ https://substack.com/redirect/6b88825d-a643-4ab4-bcff-495=
d4e42783a?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpK=
XA ] That particular Spring, his row of spring onions was on hold, on accou=
nt of =E2=80=9Ca blackbird nesting in the hedge=E2=80=A6 next to where I ha=
d planned to plant=E2=80=9D them. He did eventually get to plant them, and =
get them onto his charcoal grill. He wrote about blackening the skin proper=
ly: =E2=80=9Cpeel off the outer shell and inside will be soft, deliciously =
moist layers of flesh.=E2=80=9D
I love eating spring onions, and other onions, cooked this way. In Spain, t=
hey take it to a whole other level. Their saying =E2=80=98con cebolla, todo=
sabe mejor=E2=80=99 puts it best - =E2=80=98with onion, everything tastes =
better=E2=80=99. Taken to its most devoted extreme, the Catalan festival Ca=
l=C3=A7otada [ https://substack.com/redirect/0d106811-4827-48bd-be37-71a3ff=
a8be25?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA =
], built entirely around grilling cal=C3=A7ots - a sweeter, fatter type of =
spring onion - over burning vine cuttings until blackened, then peeled by h=
and and dunked in romesco (bibs mandatory).
You don=E2=80=99t need vine cuttings or a bib to do the same at home, thoug=
h - just a hot grill.
Raw, an onion is all sharp edges - sulphurous and a little aggressive. Whic=
h works in some ways: small pieces of raw white onion on a taco or red onio=
n through a Greek salad. When you heat it up, though, the sugars come to th=
e surface, the layers go slack and silky, and all that raw bite softens int=
o sweetness. The outside chars and turns bitter in exactly the right places=
, while whatever=E2=80=99s underneath stays soft enough to fall apart on a =
fork. Very few vegetables do both at once quite as well as alliums.
Both of today=E2=80=99s recipes lean into this. The first is a very simple =
barbecue side - spring onions, grilled until sweet and a little smoky, fini=
shed with sweet soy, lime and a bit of crunch. The second is a little more =
of a centrepiece: charred white onion petals, dressed up with a cherry driz=
zle and a pistachio dukkah.
Grilled spring onions with sweet soy and lime
Cebollitas - the charred spring onions that turn up at every Mexican barbec=
ue, piled alongside grilled meat - are the inspiration here, though this ve=
rsion goes with sweet soy and lime. Spring onions on the grill turn sweet a=
nd tender - the large bulbed ones are worth seeking out if you can find the=
m, but regular spring onions work just as well (as pictured). Serve alongsi=
de toum [ https://substack.com/redirect/05b67cbe-c640-49e4-a6f8-ab2df85c162=
2?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA ] if =
you fancy making some.
Charred onion petals with cherries and pistachio dukkah
Onions are at their best when they're charred - bitter at the edges, sweet =
in the middle. The cherry drizzle plays into that contrast, and the pistach=
io dukkah adds crunch and savouriness on top. If you only have raw pistachi=
os, toast them lightly with a little salt before making the dukkah.
Unsubscribe https://substack.com/redirect/2/eyJlIjoiaHR0cHM6Ly9vdHRvbGVuZ2h=
pLnN1YnN0YWNrLmNvbS9hY3Rpb24vZGlzYWJsZV9lbWFpbD90b2tlbj1leUoxYzJWeVgybGtJam=
94TlRJeE9ESXpNemNzSW5CdmMzUmZhV1FpT2pJd056RTBOVFU1TWl3aWFXRjBJam94TnpnME9UW=
XdNakl5TENKbGVIQWlPakU0TVRZME9UWXlNaklzSW1semN5STZJbkIxWWkwek16ZzJNakEzSWl3=
aWMzVmlJam9pWkdsellXSnNaVjlsYldGcGJDSjkuUXNRTVJGRkxHTGJuZzA1azdGajVxWHQtTHZ=
kTXRDcExDRFI5d19rdkxENCIsInAiOjIwNzE0NTU5MiwicyI6MzM4NjIwNywiZiI6dHJ1ZSwidS=
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boQ?
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body .pullquote-align-left,
body .pullquote-align-right,
body .pullquote-align-wide,
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body {
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body .markup div.youtube-overlay,
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body .markup .twitter-embed,
body .markup .tweet {
padding: 12px;
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body .markup .twitter-embed .tweet-text,
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line-height: 20px;
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body .markup .twitter-embed .tweet-photos-container.two,
body .markup .tweet .tweet-photos-container.two,
body .markup .twitter-embed .tweet-photos-container.three,
body .markup .tweet .tweet-photos-container.three,
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body .markup .twitter-embed a.expanded-link .expanded-link-img,
body .markup .tweet a.expanded-link .expanded-link-img {
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body .markup .twitter-embed a.expanded-link .expanded-link-description,
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margin: 0 auto 16px auto;
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margin: 0 0 12px 0;
max-width: 100%;
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text-align: center;
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display: flex;
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width: 72px !important;
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body .share-button-container {
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}</style></head><body class=3D"email-body" style=3D"font-kerning: auto;--im=
age-offset-margin: -120px;"><img src=3D"https://eotrx.substackcdn.com/o/625=
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argin-bottom:0 !important;margin-right:0 !important;margin-left:0 !importan=
t;padding-top:0 !important;padding-bottom:0 !important;padding-right:0 !imp=
ortant;padding-left:0 !important;"/><div class=3D"preview" style=3D"display=
:none;font-size:1px;color:#333333;line-height:1px;max-height:0px;max-width:=
0px;opacity:0;overflow:hidden;">Grilled spring onions with sweet soy & =
charred onion petals with cherries</div><div class=3D"preview" style=3D"dis=
play:none;font-size:1px;color:#333333;line-height:1px;max-height:0px;max-wi=
dth:0px;opacity:0;overflow:hidden;">͏   ­͏ &nbs=
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199; ­</div><table class=3D"email-body-container" role=3D"presentation=
" width=3D"100%" border=3D"0" cellspacing=3D"0" cellpadding=3D"0"><tbody><t=
r><td></td><td class=3D"content" width=3D"550"></td><td></td></tr><tr><td><=
/td><td class=3D"content" width=3D"550" align=3D"left"><div style=3D"font-s=
ize: 16px;line-height: 26px;max-width: 550px;width: 100%;margin: 0 auto;ove=
rflow-wrap: break-word;"><table role=3D"presentation" width=3D"100%" border=
=3D"0" cellspacing=3D"0" cellpadding=3D"0"><tbody><tr><td align=3D"right" s=
tyle=3D"height:20px;"><table role=3D"presentation" width=3D"auto" border=3D=
"0" cellspacing=3D"0" cellpadding=3D"0"><tbody><tr><td style=3D"vertical-al=
ign:middle;"><span class=3D"pencraft pc-reset reset-IxiVJZ tw-font-body tw-=
text-ssm tw-text-substack-secondary" style=3D"font-family: SF Pro Text, -ap=
ple-system, system-ui, BlinkMacSystemFont, Inter, Segoe UI, Roboto, Helveti=
ca, Arial, sans-serif, Apple Color Emoji, Segoe UI Emoji, Segoe UI Symbol;f=
ont-size: 13px;color: unset;list-style: none;text-decoration: unset;margin:=
0;"><div class=3D"pencraft pc-reset align-right-VJbKw5 size-12-mmZ61m rese=
t-IxiVJZ" style=3D"list-style: none;color: unset;text-align: right;font-siz=
e: 12px;line-height: 16px;text-decoration: unset;margin: 0;"><span class=3D=
"pencraft pc-reset reset-IxiVJZ" translated=3D"" style=3D"list-style: none;=
color: unset;text-decoration: unset;margin: 0;">Forwarded this email? <a cl=
ass=3D"pencraft pc-reset decoration-underline-ClTkYc reset-IxiVJZ" href=3D"=
https://substack.com/redirect/2/eyJlIjoiaHR0cHM6Ly9vdHRvbGVuZ2hpLnN1YnN0YWN=
rLmNvbS9zdWJzY3JpYmU_dXRtX3NvdXJjZT1lbWFpbCZ1dG1fY2FtcGFpZ249ZW1haWwtc3Vic2=
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yMTAwNTM2MjIyLCJpc3MiOiJwdWItMCIsInN1YiI6ImxpbmstcmVkaXJlY3QifQ.ck99BFYJPb2=
v7gvV_2_ihrxKGPofLArUtDVpCP4bJE0?" style=3D"list-style: none;color: unset;t=
ext-decoration: unset;margin: 0;-webkit-text-decoration-line: underline;tex=
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;-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased;-moz-osx-font-smoothing: antialiased;-=
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ppearance: optimizelegibility;margin: 0;line-height: 36px;font-size: 32px;"=
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h onion, everything is better!</a></h1><h3 class=3D"subtitle subtitle-HEEcL=
o" dir=3D"auto" style=3D"direction: auto;text-align: start;unicode-bidi: is=
olate;font-family: 'SF Pro Display',-apple-system-headline,system-ui,-apple=
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font-size: 18px;margin-top: 12px;">Grilled spring onions with sweet soy &am=
p; charred onion petals with cherries</h3><table class=3D"post-meta custom =
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tion: relative;flex-direction: column;align-items: center;padding: 0;width:=
auto;height: auto;border: none;text-decoration: none;display: block;margin=
: 0;"><img class=3D"wide-image" data-attrs=3D"{"src":"https:=
//substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/016659c6-b250-4138-b82=
9-64b800f0d357_4284x5712.jpeg","srcNoWatermark":null,"f=
ullscreen":null,"imageSize":null,"height":1941,&qu=
ot;width":1456,"resizeWidth":null,"bytes":9971377,=
"alt":null,"title":null,"type":"image/jp=
eg","href":null,"belowTheFold":false,"topImag=
e":false,"internalRedirect":"https://ottolenghi.substac=
k.com/i/207145592?img=3Dhttps%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%=
2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F016659c6-b250-4138-b829-64b800f0d357_4284x5712.jpeg&quo=
t;,"isProcessing":false,"align":null,"offset"=
:false}" alt=3D"" width=3D"550" height=3D"733.2074175824176" src=3D"https:/=
/substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!VNz9!,w_1100,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl=
_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpub=
lic%2Fimages%2F016659c6-b250-4138-b829-64b800f0d357_4284x5712.jpeg" style=
=3D"border: none !important;vertical-align: middle;display: block;-ms-inter=
polation-mode: bicubic;height: auto;margin-bottom: 0;width: auto !important=
;max-width: 100% !important;margin: 0 auto;"></a></td><td style=3D"text-ali=
gn: center;"></td></tr></tbody></table></figure></div><p style=3D"margin: 0=
0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;"><span>I =
follow </span><a href=3D"https://substack.com/redirect/e323bc41-f7b2-4517-9=
2b7-510a7991c4bf?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySy=
rNvyrpKXA" style=3D"color: #cd001a;text-decoration: none;"><span>Nigel Slat=
er on Instagram</span></a><span> to be charmed. He’ll post a picture =
of a strip of his garden going a bit wild, his breakfast, or a quiche he=
217;s made, with a line like the </span><em><span>‘wisteria outside m=
y kitchen holding hands with the fig tree’</span></em><span> - and he=
’s got me. He’s always had a lovely way with both words and foo=
d.</span></p><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-heigh=
t: 26px;font-size: 16px;"><span>We share a photographer, as it happens - Jo=
nathan Lovekin - who’s shot most of my books and has worked with Nige=
l for even longer. They’re doing a </span><a href=3D"https://substack=
=2Ecom/redirect/7975029c-72d0-4d67-83d=
a-ea54fe9eb3a7?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.=
TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA" style=3D"color: #cd001a;text-d=
ecoration: none;"><span>joint interview for Vittles’ print magazine</=
span></a><span>, out later this month, which I very much look forward to re=
ading.</span></p><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-h=
eight: 26px;font-size: 16px;"><span>Back in 2009, Nigel wrote a piece for t=
he Guardian called </span><a href=3D"https://substack.com/redirect/6b88825d=
-a643-4ab4-bcff-495d4e42783a?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hV=
TcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA" style=3D"color: #cd001a;text-decoration: none;"><spa=
n>Confessions of an Allium Addict.</span></a><span> That particular Spring,=
his row of spring onions was on hold, on account of </span><em><span>̶=
0;a blackbird nesting in the hedge… next to where I had planned to pl=
ant”</span></em><span> them. He did eventually get to plant them, and=
get them onto his charcoal grill. He wrote about blackening the skin prope=
rly: </span><em><span>“peel off the outer shell and inside will be so=
ft, deliciously moist layers of flesh.”</span></em></p><p style=3D"ma=
rgin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;"><=
span>I love eating spring onions, and other onions, cooked this way. In Spa=
in, they take it to a whole other level. Their saying ‘</span><em><sp=
an>con cebolla, todo sabe mejor’</span></em><span> puts it best - =
216;with onion, everything tastes better’. Taken to its most devoted =
extreme, the Catalan festival </span><em><a href=3D"https://substack.com/re=
direct/0d106811-4827-48bd-be37-71a3ffa8be25?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC=
2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA" style=3D"color: #cd001a;text-decorati=
on: none;"><span>Calçotada</span></a></em><span>, built entirely aroun=
d grilling calçots - a sweeter, fatter type of spring onion - over bur=
ning vine cuttings until blackened, then peeled by hand and dunked in romes=
co (bibs mandatory).</span></p><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54=
,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;"><span>You don’t need vine=
cuttings or a bib to do the same at home, though - just a hot grill.</span=
></p><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;=
font-size: 16px;"><span>Raw, an onion is all sharp edges - sulphurous and a=
little aggressive. Which works in some ways: small pieces of raw white oni=
on on a taco or red onion through a Greek salad. When you heat it up, thoug=
h, the sugars come to the surface, the layers go slack and silky, and all t=
hat raw bite softens into sweetness. The outside chars and turns bitter in =
exactly the right places, while whatever’s underneath stays soft enou=
gh to fall apart on a fork. Very few vegetables do both at once quite as we=
ll as alliums.</span></p><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55=
);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;"><span>Both of today’s recipes l=
ean into this. The first is a very simple barbecue side - spring onions, gr=
illed until sweet and a little smoky, finished with sweet soy, lime and a b=
it of crunch. The second is a little more of a centrepiece: charred white o=
nion petals, dressed up with a cherry drizzle and a pistachio dukkah.</span=
></p><div style=3D"font-size: 16px;line-height: 26px;"><hr style=3D"margin:=
32px 0;padding: 0;height: 1px;background: rgb(0,0,0,.1);border: none;"></d=
iv><h3 class=3D"header-anchor-post" style=3D"position: relative;font-family=
: 'SF Pro Display',-apple-system-headline,system-ui,-apple-system,BlinkMacS=
ystemFont,'Segoe UI',Roboto,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif,'Apple Color Emoji',=
'Segoe UI Emoji','Segoe UI Symbol';font-weight: bold;-webkit-font-smoothing=
: antialiased;-moz-osx-font-smoothing: antialiased;-webkit-appearance: opti=
mizelegibility;-moz-appearance: optimizelegibility;appearance: optimizelegi=
bility;margin: 1em 0 0.625em 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 1.16em;fon=
t-size: calc(1.375em * 1);"><strong><span>Grilled spring onions with sweet =
soy and lime</span></strong></h3><div class=3D"captioned-image-container-st=
atic" style=3D"font-size: 16px;line-height: 26px;margin: 32px auto;"><figur=
e style=3D"width: 100%;margin: 0 auto;"><table class=3D"image-wrapper" widt=
h=3D"100%" border=3D"0" cellspacing=3D"0" cellpadding=3D"0" data-component-=
name=3D"Image2ToDOMStatic" style=3D"mso-padding-alt: 1em 0 1.6em;"><tbody><=
tr><td style=3D"text-align: center;"></td><td class=3D"content" align=3D"le=
ft" width=3D"1456" style=3D"text-align: center;"><a class=3D"image-link" ta=
rget=3D"_blank" href=3D"https://substack.com/redirect/289514a7-4849-4049-a7=
e8-335ecd9e2357?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyr=
NvyrpKXA" style=3D"position: relative;flex-direction: column;align-items: c=
enter;padding: 0;width: auto;height: auto;border: none;text-decoration: non=
e;display: block;margin: 0;"><img class=3D"wide-image" data-attrs=3D"{"=
;src":"https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images=
/ac257485-8d35-4b45-ae55-0e7b9c5fd34f_2736x3648.heic","srcNoWater=
mark":null,"fullscreen":null,"imageSize":null,&quo=
t;height":1941,"width":1456,"resizeWidth":null,&qu=
ot;bytes":1486290,"alt":null,"title":null,"ty=
pe":"image/heic","href":null,"belowTheFold&qu=
ot;:true,"topImage":false,"internalRedirect":"http=
s://ottolenghi.substack.com/i/207145592?img=3Dhttps%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-m=
edia.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fac257485-8d35-4b45-ae55-0e7b9c5fd=
34f_2736x3648.heic","isProcessing":false,"align":n=
ull,"offset":false}" alt=3D"" width=3D"550" height=3D"733.2074175=
824176" src=3D"https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!T8dO!,w_1100,c_limit=
,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.=
s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fac257485-8d35-4b45-ae55-0e7b9c5fd34f_2=
736x3648.heic" style=3D"border: none !important;vertical-align: middle;disp=
lay: block;-ms-interpolation-mode: bicubic;height: auto;margin-bottom: 0;wi=
dth: auto !important;max-width: 100% !important;margin: 0 auto;"></a></td><=
td style=3D"text-align: center;"></td></tr></tbody></table></figure></div><=
p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-s=
ize: 16px;"><span>Cebollitas - the charred spring onions that turn up at ev=
ery Mexican barbecue, piled alongside grilled meat - are the inspiration he=
re, though this version goes with sweet soy and lime. Spring onions on the =
grill turn sweet and tender - the large bulbed ones are worth seeking out i=
f you can find them, but regular spring onions work just as well (as pictur=
ed). Serve alongside </span><a href=3D"https://substack.com/redirect/05b67c=
be-c640-49e4-a6f8-ab2df85c1622?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9=
hVTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA" style=3D"color: #cd001a;text-decoration: none;"><s=
pan>toum</span></a><span> if you fancy making some.</span></p><p class=3D"b=
utton-wrapper" data-attrs=3D"{"url":"https://ottolenghi.co.u=
k/pages/recipes/grilled-spring-onions-sweet-soy-lime","text"=
:"Grilled spring onions","action":null,"class"=
;:null}" data-component-name=3D"ButtonCreateButton" style=3D"margin: 0 0 20=
px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;text-align: cen=
ter;cursor: pointer;border-radius: 4px;"><a class=3D"button primary" href=
=3D"https://substack.com/redirect/9632c150-5f23-4f85-884b-a7fcd22a1b36?j=3D=
eyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA" style=3D"f=
ont-family: system-ui,-apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFont,'Segoe UI',Roboto,He=
lvetica,Arial,sans-serif,'Apple Color Emoji','Segoe UI Emoji','Segoe UI Sym=
bol';display: inline-block;box-sizing: border-box;cursor: pointer;border: n=
one;border-radius: 8px;font-size: 14px;line-height: 20px;font-weight: 600;t=
ext-align: center;margin: 0;opacity: 1;outline: none;white-space: nowrap;co=
lor: #ffffff !important;text-decoration: none !important;background-color: =
#cd001a;padding: 12px 20px;height: auto;"><span style=3D"color: #ffffff;tex=
t-decoration: none;">Grilled spring onions</span></a></p><div style=3D"font=
-size: 16px;line-height: 26px;"><hr style=3D"margin: 32px 0;padding: 0;heig=
ht: 1px;background: rgb(0,0,0,.1);border: none;"></div><h3 class=3D"header-=
anchor-post" style=3D"position: relative;font-family: 'SF Pro Display',-app=
le-system-headline,system-ui,-apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFont,'Segoe UI',Ro=
boto,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif,'Apple Color Emoji','Segoe UI Emoji','Segoe=
UI Symbol';font-weight: bold;-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased;-moz-osx-=
font-smoothing: antialiased;-webkit-appearance: optimizelegibility;-moz-app=
earance: optimizelegibility;appearance: optimizelegibility;margin: 1em 0 0.=
625em 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 1.16em;font-size: calc(1.375em * =
1);"><strong><span>Charred onion petals with cherries and pistachio dukkah<=
/span></strong></h3><div class=3D"captioned-image-container-static" style=
=3D"font-size: 16px;line-height: 26px;margin: 32px auto;"><figure style=3D"=
width: 100%;margin: 0 auto;"><table class=3D"image-wrapper" width=3D"100%" =
border=3D"0" cellspacing=3D"0" cellpadding=3D"0" data-component-name=3D"Ima=
ge2ToDOMStatic" style=3D"mso-padding-alt: 1em 0 1.6em;"><tbody><tr><td styl=
e=3D"text-align: center;"></td><td class=3D"content" align=3D"left" width=
=3D"1456" style=3D"text-align: center;"><a class=3D"image-link" target=3D"_=
blank" href=3D"https://substack.com/redirect/7e35351e-d5af-42f3-b683-25aa55=
6f11a8?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA"=
style=3D"position: relative;flex-direction: column;align-items: center;pad=
ding: 0;width: auto;height: auto;border: none;text-decoration: none;display=
: block;margin: 0;"><img class=3D"wide-image" data-attrs=3D"{"src"=
;:"https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/9b5f10da=
-9545-437e-a5ce-ba16679373d9_2865x3821.jpeg","srcNoWatermark"=
;:null,"fullscreen":null,"imageSize":null,"height&=
quot;:1942,"width":1456,"resizeWidth":null,"bytes&=
quot;:4966296,"alt":null,"title":null,"type":=
"image/jpeg","href":null,"belowTheFold":true,=
"topImage":false,"internalRedirect":"https://ottol=
enghi.substack.com/i/207145592?img=3Dhttps%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.a=
mazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9b5f10da-9545-437e-a5ce-ba16679373d9_2865x=
3821.jpeg","isProcessing":false,"align":null,"=
;offset":false}" alt=3D"" width=3D"550" height=3D"733.5851648351648" s=
rc=3D"https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!jjuH!,w_1100,c_limit,f_auto,q=
_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazon=
aws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F9b5f10da-9545-437e-a5ce-ba16679373d9_2865x3821.=
jpeg" style=3D"border: none !important;vertical-align: middle;display: bloc=
k;-ms-interpolation-mode: bicubic;height: auto;margin-bottom: 0;width: auto=
!important;max-width: 100% !important;margin: 0 auto;"></a></td><td style=
=3D"text-align: center;"></td></tr></tbody></table></figure></div><p style=
=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16=
px;"><span>Onions are at their best when they're charred - bitter at the ed=
ges, sweet in the middle. The cherry drizzle plays into that contrast, and =
the pistachio dukkah adds crunch and savouriness on top. If you only have r=
aw pistachios, toast them lightly with a little salt before making the dukk=
ah.</span></p><div class=3D"captioned-image-container-static" style=3D"font=
-size: 16px;line-height: 26px;margin: 32px auto;margin-bottom: 0;"><figure =
style=3D"width: 100%;margin: 0 auto;"><table class=3D"image-wrapper" width=
=3D"100%" border=3D"0" cellspacing=3D"0" cellpadding=3D"0" data-component-n=
ame=3D"Image2ToDOMStatic" style=3D"mso-padding-alt: 1em 0 1.6em;"><tbody><t=
r><td style=3D"text-align: center;"></td><td class=3D"content" align=3D"lef=
t" width=3D"1456" style=3D"text-align: center;"><a class=3D"image-link" tar=
get=3D"_blank" href=3D"https://substack.com/redirect/2eaf05f9-ea10-47b0-825=
3-c0720aeda3b6?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrN=
vyrpKXA" style=3D"position: relative;flex-direction: column;align-items: ce=
nter;padding: 0;width: auto;height: auto;border: none;text-decoration: none=
;display: block;margin: 0;"><img class=3D"wide-image" data-attrs=3D"{"=
src":"https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/=
70fab90b-5f9e-4b18-9d01-105157382fe7_2000x296.png","srcNoWatermar=
k":null,"fullscreen":null,"imageSize":null,"h=
eight":215,"width":1456,"resizeWidth":null,"b=
ytes":20994,"alt":null,"title":null,"type&quo=
t;:"image/png","href":null,"belowTheFold":tru=
e,"topImage":false,"internalRedirect":"https://ott=
olenghi.substack.com/i/196757163?img=3Dhttps%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3=
=2Eamazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F70=
fab90b-5f9e-4b18-9d01-105157382fe7_200=
0x296.png","isProcessing":false,"align":null,"=
;offset":false}" alt=3D"" width=3D"550" height=3D"81.21565934065934" s=
rc=3D"https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!JJqk!,w_1100,c_limit,f_auto,q=
_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazon=
aws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F70fab90b-5f9e-4b18-9d01-105157382fe7_2000x296.p=
ng" style=3D"border: none !important;vertical-align: middle;display: block;=
-ms-interpolation-mode: bicubic;height: auto;margin-bottom: 0;width: auto !=
important;max-width: 100% !important;margin: 0 auto;"></a></td><td style=3D=
"text-align: center;"></td></tr></tbody></table></figure></div></div></div>=
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16px 24px;background: rgb(255,255,255);color: rgb(54,55,55);border-top: so=
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Emoji','Segoe UI Emoji','Segoe UI Symbol';-webkit-font-smoothing: antialias=
ed;-moz-osx-font-smoothing: antialiased;-webkit-appearance: optimizelegibil=
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