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Subject: What's it Like to go into London's Sewers? A feculent photo-essay
From: "Londonist: Time Machine" <londonist@substack.com>
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View this post on the web at https://londonist.substack.com/p/whats-it-like=
-to-go-into-londons
Welcome to Londonist: Time Machine=E2=80=99s Friday newsletter for paying s=
ubscribers, with a tasty teaser for everyone else.
Much has been written about Joseph Bazalgette and the Victorian sewers. Wha=
t often gets left out of those accounts is the =E2=80=9Cwhat are they actua=
lly like?=E2=80=9D bit. Having enjoyed a paddle or two myself, I thought I=
=E2=80=99d compile my thoughts and photos. You might not want to read this =
over lunch.
That=E2=80=99s for the main section. First the History Radar=E2=80=A6
History Radar
Upcoming events for fans of London history.
=F0=9F=9B=8B=EF=B8=8F FREUD MUSEUM AT 40: The final home of Sigmund and Ann=
a Freud in Hampstead marks four decades as a public institution. Director A=
nna Jobson hosts a 40th anniversary celebration [ https://substack.com/redi=
rect/75ded6a6-2332-40b3-aa9a-6f55510f433c?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2v=
Cq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA ] on 28 July, which features a behind-th=
e-scenes tour of the house's 2,000 antiquities and a conversation with Lord=
David Freud, the great-grandson of the father of psychoanalysis. Explore t=
he famous study and the magnificent art collection before concluding with a=
drinks reception in the museum garden.
=E2=9B=AA=EF=B8=8F FITZROVIA CHAPEL TOUR: Former Middlesex surgeon James Th=
omson leads an intimate 45-minute journey through the history and architect=
ure of the stunning Grade II* listed Fitzrovia Chapel [ https://substack.co=
m/redirect/a01fce66-1df0-4edf-ba9f-e3bc8ebc7026?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfB=
ByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA ] on 29 July. This guided tour [ h=
ttps://substack.com/redirect/48f308e7-424a-4a4d-a9c3-fad441d86783?j=3DeyJ1I=
joiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA ] explores the o=
rnate gold mosaics and marble of the former hospital chapel, which remains =
a hidden sanctuary in the heart of the city.
=F0=9F=8E=AD HORRIBLE HISTORIES: One for families. Boudica, King John, the =
Magna Carta, Guy Fawkes and Dick Turpin all feature in the latest Horrible =
Histories stage show [ https://substack.com/redirect/51a074e4-a9f8-4599-8a0=
7-38c5ef09efc3?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrN=
vyrpKXA ], which tackles Barmy Britain. It's history with the nasty bits le=
ft in =E2=80=94 because everyone knows that's what kids latch onto. See it =
at the Apollo Theatre from 30 July till 31 August.
=F0=9F=9A=B6=F0=9F=8F=BC=E2=80=8D=E2=99=82=EF=B8=8FNIGHT WALK: Artists Clar=
e Qualmann and Gail Burton lead a two-mile walk [ https://substack.com/redi=
rect/96028675-6e77-434d-8d6b-a3a7e3c20ef1?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2v=
Cq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA ] through the streets of east London to =
mark 21 years since their original urban archaeology project began. Put you=
r phone aside and navigate a route between Whitechapel and Bethnal Green us=
ing a re-issued map to document the shifting cityscape, and share anecdotes=
and observations of "things that have gone" from the local environment. 30=
July
=F0=9F=91=B6=F0=9F=8F=BD CHILDHOOD IN WAR: Lambeth's Imperial War Museum op=
ens new free exhibition Childhood in War [ https://substack.com/redirect/c6=
bcdc60-2102-4cbc-abe6-e72ae85349e2?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94=
WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA ], exploring the experiences of children during=
wartime from 1914 to the present day. See how aspects of life including pl=
ay, schooling, health, home life and safety are all impacted by conflict. F=
rom 31 July
=F0=9F=9A=A4 DUNKIRK LITTLE SHIPS: Start your August by the water, as a fle=
et of 16 Dunkirk Little Ships drops anchor at St Katharine Docks next to To=
wer Bridge. The vessels taking part in Dunkirks at the Docks [ https://subs=
tack.com/redirect/54fb9e0a-00a7-4a85-8988-6499f56b0e2d?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241=
In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA ] are just a handful of tho=
se which were involved in Operation Dynamo, rescuing Allied troops from the=
beaches of northern France in 1940. 1 August
=E2=9A=93=EF=B8=8F SHIPYARD TOURS: Step inside the working shipyard at The =
Golden Hinde (near Borough Market) for a guided visit [ https://substack.co=
m/redirect/062a20af-e7fe-42de-ab5e-b6ff6d71cd0e?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfB=
ByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA ] that includes a 30-minute tour o=
f the active restoration space and a 30-minute guided tour onboard the ship=
, explaining design, construction methods and conservation practices. 2 Aug=
ust
=F0=9F=8F=A1 LITTLE HOLLAND HOUSE: The monthly open day of Carshalton's Lit=
tle Holland House [ https://substack.com/redirect/b7d30e62-6dd5-456c-a5a2-5=
4925abc4998?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyr=
pKXA ] invites the public inside for tours. The former home of artist and c=
raftsman Frank Dickinson is Grade-II listed and packed with paintings, furn=
iture, copperwork and other craft objects made by Dickinson. 2 August
What=E2=80=99s it Like to go into London=E2=80=99s Sewers? A feculent photo=
-essay
=E2=80=9CHow bad did it smell?=E2=80=9D.=20
That=E2=80=99s the question everyone asks when I say I=E2=80=99ve been down=
the sewers.
The answer is not what you might think. Yes, there are poos down there. Of =
course there are. You can=E2=80=99t help but spot morsels of turd, bobbing =
along like ghastly croutons in an unpalatable soup. But they are much dilut=
ed by bath, basin and shower water, laundry and dishwasher outputs, and run=
-off from the streets.=20
The combined smell is best described as =E2=80=98farty detergent=E2=80=99. =
It is the musty odour of wet clothes left forgotten in the washing machine =
for two days. If you ever had to live in shared student accommodation in th=
e 1990s, then you=E2=80=99ve probably endured worse.=20
London=E2=80=99s sewer system is rightly held up as a wonder of Victorian e=
ngineering. Under the superintendence of Joseph Bazalgette, some 2,000 mile=
s of sewer were built or improved in the mid-19th century, ending the =E2=
=80=98Big Stink=E2=80=99 that had choked the city. It=E2=80=99s a fascinati=
ng chapter in London=E2=80=99s history, but one that=E2=80=99s been told in=
countless books and articles. I=E2=80=99m not going to retread it here. Ra=
ther, I=E2=80=99m going to describe what it=E2=80=99s like to actually trea=
d through the sewers.
I=E2=80=99ve been into them five times, lucky me. Three involved a paddle, =
and two were to construction sites. Each subterranean sortie has given me a=
less-than-fresh insight into our city=E2=80=99s bowels. So, please join me=
in a paddle down memory drain=E2=80=A6
Note: all five trips were arranged through the proper channels, so to speak=
=2E Entering the sewers without permiss=
ion or expert guidance is highly dange=
rous.
Northern Outfall (May 2010)
My first sewer experience was also the most challenging. The venue was a se=
ction of the Northern Outfall Sewer on the southern edge of the Olympic Par=
k. You might have walked along this sewer yourself. Up above, it is a 4.3 m=
ile cycleway and footpath known as the Greenway:
Directly beneath that tarmac, it is very much the Brownway:=20
The Northern Outfall Sewer is one of London=E2=80=99s largest. It collects =
all the waste water from other sewers north of the river and ushers it east=
wards towards the treatment works at Beckton. Every toileted poo and wee in=
north London issues through this sewer, from the elevated turds of Hampste=
ad to the royal flush of Buckingham Palace.=20
I entered the sewer during a dry spell and, consequently, the flow was only=
knee-deep. Protected by waders, splash jackets, hard hats and gloves, I fe=
lt coccooned from the nastiness of the cackish waters beneath me. Even so, =
one slip and I=E2=80=99d be living up to my surname.
The worst part, actually, is getting up and down the ladder.=20
To reach the water, one must make a four- or five-metre vertical climb down=
a ladder. Easy enough in the civilian world, but here I must descend near-=
blind into the dark, senses numbed by rubber soles and gloves, and with sev=
eral kilos of emergency breathing apparatus strapped to my waist. I=E2=80=
=99m clipped on to a safety wire, just in case.
If going down is hard, then coming back up is worse. You don=E2=80=99t want=
to be the last one out. Every predecessor on the ladder has climbed in wad=
ers that have spent 20 minutes on a submerged carpet of used toilet tissue.=
Clags and drippings are left behind on the rungs, and your nose is inches =
away.=20
After the question about =E2=80=9Chow does it smell?=E2=80=9D, the next mos=
t-common is =E2=80=9CDid you see rats?=E2=80=9D. Again, the answer is surpr=
ising. Very few rats lurk in sewers like the Northern Outfall, where the wa=
ter is too deep and fast for small mammals. That said, Thames Water keeps a=
plastic rat called Roland at the foot of the ladder, just for laughs.
My visit that day also included a look around Abbey Mills Pumping Station, =
the unexpectedly gorgeous Victorian engine house, which was traditionally u=
sed to raise the sewer water to the top of a fresh gradient on its continue=
d journey to Beckton treatment works. Abbey Mills and its sister pumping st=
ation at Crossness are article-worthy structures in their own right, so I=
=E2=80=99ll save them for a later newsletter. However, I must include this =
map of the major sewers, which greets visitors to the pumping station:
Into the River Fleet (August 2010)
Just three months after my taste of the Northern Outfall, I got an invitati=
on to sample a rather different waterway. The Fleet Sewer runs from Hampste=
ad down to Blackfriars. It carries the natural waters of the River Fleet, o=
ne of the =E2=80=98lost rivers of London=E2=80=99 that once flowed freely t=
hrough fields, but is now relegated underground. It also conveys lots of na=
sties, though on this occasion the waters were low and I was able to admire=
the brickwork without too much fear of a dunking.
Our entrance site was on Farringdon Street, not far from Holborn Viaduct. I=
=E2=80=99ll show you the rough location on the John Rocque map of 1746, by =
which time this stretch of the Fleet had already been covered:
As you can see, the covering of the river created a wide, linear space, whi=
ch was soon colonised by market buildings. Curiously, the Fleet Sewer, to t=
his day, still bifurcates at this point, flowing to either side of where th=
ose buildings once stood, perhaps to avoid foundations.=20
(I must apologise for the quality of the photos from this visit, by the way=
=2E The lens kept misting up in the humid air of the tunnel.)
Walking against the limited current was relatively easy. The stream flowed =
barely higher than ankle level, and only the risk of slipping slowed me dow=
n. I was Fleet of foot, if not fleet of foot.=20
I=E2=80=99ve got to say, the curves of the tunnels and the intricate brickw=
ork at junctions are simply gorgeous. My condensation-prone camera wasn=E2=
=80=99t really up to the job, but others have been down here with better ki=
t and taken mesmerising images [ https://substack.com/redirect/c074aad9-02b=
f-4d32-b7b8-c1d6c6142f5f?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrD=
RYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA ].
You wouldn=E2=80=99t want to be down here during a storm, mind, when the le=
vel can approach the ceiling. At these times, the system can be overwhelmed=
=2E Traditionally, a series of one-way=20=
valves would allow the swollen Fleet t=
o disgorge into the Thames, but now we have the =E2=80=98supersewer=E2=80=
=99 (more below) to capture most of that run-off.
The Lee Tunnel (April 2015)
I got to visit this sewer before ever it tasted the uric tang of effluent. =
This is the Lee Tunnel, a 4.3-mile sewer from Abbey Mills to Beckton. It wa=
s built about a decade ago as the first component of the =E2=80=98Thames Ti=
deway=E2=80=99 supersewer, a huge project to stop sewage discharging into t=
he river.
The Lee Tunnel is the deepest in London. The entrance shaft at Beckton is 8=
0 metres below surface level =E2=80=94 twice the height of the Albert Hall,=
if that helps Beatles fans solve the 60-year-old riddle about how many hol=
es it takes to fill said building. I expected to be ushered towards a stair=
well. Instead, I was asked to climb into a cage. This was hitched to the si=
te=E2=80=99s tower crane, which gradually lowered me into the gaping maw=E2=
=80=A6...
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.typography.editor .markup div.embedded-publication-wrap .embedded-public=
ation.show-subscribe {
padding: 24px;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.typography .markup div.subscription-widget-wrap .subscription-widget.sho=
w-subscribe,
.typography.editor .markup div.subscription-widget-wrap .subscription-wid=
get.show-subscribe,
.typography .markup div.subscription-widget-wrap-editor .subscription-wid=
get.show-subscribe,
.typography.editor .markup div.subscription-widget-wrap-editor .subscript=
ion-widget.show-subscribe,
.typography .markup div.captioned-button-wrap .subscription-widget.show-s=
ubscribe,
.typography.editor .markup div.captioned-button-wrap .subscription-widget=
=2Eshow-subscribe {
padding: 0px 24px;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.typography .markup div.subscription-widget-wrap .subscription-widget.sho=
w-subscribe .subscription-widget-subscribe .button,
.typography.editor .markup div.subscription-widget-wrap .subscription-wid=
get.show-subscribe .subscription-widget-subscribe .button,
.typography .markup div.subscription-widget-wrap-editor .subscription-wid=
get.show-subscribe .subscription-widget-subscribe .button,
.typography.editor .markup div.subscription-widget-wrap-editor .subscript=
ion-widget.show-subscribe .subscription-widget-subscribe .button,
.typography .markup div.captioned-button-wrap .subscription-widget.show-s=
ubscribe .subscription-widget-subscribe .button,
.typography.editor .markup div.captioned-button-wrap .subscription-widget=
=2Eshow-subscribe .subscription-widget-subscribe .button {
padding: 10px 12px;
min-width: 110px;
}
}
@media (max-width: 650px) {
.typography .markup .twitter-embed,
.typography.editor .markup .twitter-embed,
.typography .markup .tweet,
.typography.editor .markup .tweet {
padding: 12px;
}
}
@media (max-width: 650px) {
.typography .markup .twitter-embed .tweet-text,
.typography.editor .markup .twitter-embed .tweet-text,
.typography .markup .tweet .tweet-text,
.typography.editor .markup .tweet .tweet-text {
font-size: 14px;
line-height: 20px;
}
}
@media (max-width: 650px) {
.typography .markup .twitter-embed .tweet-photos-container.two,
.typography.editor .markup .twitter-embed .tweet-photos-container.two,
.typography .markup .tweet .tweet-photos-container.two,
.typography.editor .markup .tweet .tweet-photos-container.two,
.typography .markup .twitter-embed .tweet-photos-container.three,
.typography.editor .markup .twitter-embed .tweet-photos-container.three,
.typography .markup .tweet .tweet-photos-container.three,
.typography.editor .markup .tweet .tweet-photos-container.three,
.typography .markup .twitter-embed .tweet-photos-container.four,
.typography.editor .markup .twitter-embed .tweet-photos-container.four,
.typography .markup .tweet .tweet-photos-container.four,
.typography.editor .markup .tweet .tweet-photos-container.four {
height: 200px;
}
}
@media (max-width: 650px) {
.typography .markup .twitter-embed a.expanded-link .expanded-link-img,
.typography.editor .markup .twitter-embed a.expanded-link .expanded-link-=
img,
.typography .markup .tweet a.expanded-link .expanded-link-img,
.typography.editor .markup .tweet a.expanded-link .expanded-link-img {
max-height: 180px;
}
}
@media (max-width: 650px) {
.typography .markup .twitter-embed a.expanded-link .expanded-link-descrip=
tion,
.typography.editor .markup .twitter-embed a.expanded-link .expanded-link-=
description,
.typography .markup .tweet a.expanded-link .expanded-link-description,
.typography.editor .markup .tweet a.expanded-link .expanded-link-descript=
ion {
display: none;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.typography .markup .apple-podcast-container,
.typography.editor .markup .apple-podcast-container {
width: unset;
}
}
@media (max-width: 420px) {
.typography .markup .install-substack-app-embed img.install-substack-app-=
embed-img,
.typography.editor .markup .install-substack-app-embed img.install-substa=
ck-app-embed-img {
margin: 0 auto 16px auto;
}
}
@media (max-width: 420px) {
.typography .markup .install-substack-app-embed .install-substack-app-emb=
ed-text,
.typography.editor .markup .install-substack-app-embed .install-substack-=
app-embed-text {
margin: 0 0 12px 0;
max-width: 100%;
width: auto;
text-align: center;
}
}
@media (max-width: 420px) {
.typography .markup .install-substack-app-embed .install-substack-app-emb=
ed-link,
.typography.editor .markup .install-substack-app-embed .install-substack-=
app-embed-link {
display: flex;
justify-content: center;
}
}
@media screen and (min-width: 481px) {
.share-button-container {
height: 38px;
}
}
@media screen and (min-width: 481px) {
.share-button-container a.comment {
height: 38px;
line-height: 38px;
padding-right: 10px;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 480px) {
.share-button-container .separator {
display: block;
margin: 0;
height: 8px;
border-left: none;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 480px) {
.share-button-container a.share.first img {
padding-left: 0;
}
}
@media screen and (min-width: 481px) {
.share-button-container a.mobile {
display: none !important;
}
}
@media screen and (min-width: 541px) {
.settings-add-pub-modal-wrapper .container .add-recommending-pub-modal-co=
ntainer {
padding: 36px;
height: 680px;
}
}
@media screen and (min-width: 541px) {
.settings-add-pub-modal-wrapper .container .add-recommending-pub-modal-co=
ntainer .footer {
position: absolute;
bottom: 36px;
margin: 0px;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.header-anchor-parent {
display: none;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 768px) {
.post {
padding: 16px 0 0 0;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.post .post-header .post-label {
margin-top: 8px;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.post .post-header .meta-author-wrap.alternative-meta .meta-right-column =
=2Epost-meta {
margin-top: 6px;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.post .footer-facepile-container {
height: 64px;
padding: 0 16px;
display: flex;
align-items: center;
justify-content: flex-start;
width: 100%;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.post .post-footer.use-separators {
justify-content: center;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.post .post-footer.next-prev {
height: 64px;
justify-content: space-between;
box-sizing: border-box;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.post-contributor-footer .post-contributor-bio-table {
display: block;
}
.post-contributor-footer .post-contributor-bio-table-row {
display: flex;
flex-direction: row;
}
.post-contributor-footer .post-contributor-bio-userhead-cell,
.post-contributor-footer .post-contributor-bio-body-cell {
display: block;
}
.post-contributor-footer .post-contributor-bio-body-cell {
flex-grow: 1;
}
.post-contributor-footer .post-contributor-bio-body-table {
display: block;
}
.post-contributor-footer .post-contributor-bio-body-table-row {
display: block;
}
.post-contributor-footer .post-contributor-bio-copy-cell,
.post-contributor-footer .post-contributor-bio-controls-cell {
display: block;
}
.post-contributor-footer .post-contributor-bio-copy-cell {
margin: 0 0 16px 0;
}
.post-contributor-footer .post-contributor-bio-controls-cell {
width: auto;
}
.post-contributor-footer .post-contributor-bio-controls {
margin: auto;
}
.post-contributor-footer .post-contributor-bio-controls .button.primary {
width: 100%;
}
.post-contributor-footer .post-contributor-bio-text {
font-size: 14px;
}
}
@media screen and (min-width: 768px) {
.post-silhouette {
padding: 32px 0;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.post-silhouette .post-silhouette-title {
margin-top: 10.44225025px;
height: 120px;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.post-silhouette .post-silhouette-meta {
width: 75%;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.post-silhouette .post-silhouette-meta.with-byline-image {
margin: 20px 0;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.use-theme-bg .post-meta.alternative-meta .post-meta-item,
.post-meta.alternative-meta .post-meta-item {
padding-right: 16px;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 370px) {
.use-theme-bg .post-meta.alternative-meta .post-meta-item,
.post-meta.alternative-meta .post-meta-item {
font-size: 14px;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.use-theme-bg .post-meta.alternative-meta .post-meta-item.guest-author-pu=
blication,
.post-meta.alternative-meta .post-meta-item.guest-author-publication {
display: none;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 370px) {
.post-meta .post-meta-item .post-meta-button {
height: 36px !important;
/* important to override in-line height style on emails */
}
.post-meta .post-meta-item .post-meta-button .meta-button-label {
display: none;
}
.post-meta .post-meta-item .post-meta-button > svg {
margin-right: 0;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 370px) {
.post-meta .post-meta-item {
font-size: 12px;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.post .floating-subscribe-button {
bottom: 20px;
right: 20px;
}
}
@media (max-width: 1024px) {
body .pullquote-align-left,
body .pullquote-align-right,
body .pullquote-align-wide,
body .pullquote-align-center {
float: none;
margin: 0 auto;
width: 100%;
max-width: 100%;
}
}
@media all and (-ms-high-contrast: none), (-ms-high-contrast: active) {
body .markup table.image-wrapper img,
body .markup table.kindle-wrapper img {
max-width: 550px;
}
}
@media (min-width: 1024px) {
body:not(:has(#toc)) .captioned-image-container figure:has(> a.image2-off=
set-left) {
margin-left: var(--image-offset-margin);
}
body:not(:has(#toc)) .captioned-image-container figure:has(> a.image2-off=
set-right) {
margin-right: var(--image-offset-margin);
}
}
@media (min-width: 1300px) {
body .captioned-image-container figure:has(> a.image2-offset-left) {
margin-left: var(--image-offset-margin);
}
body .captioned-image-container figure:has(> a.image2-offset-right) {
margin-right: var(--image-offset-margin);
}
}
@media (max-width: 1024px) {
body {
/* Disable offset on mobile/tablet */
}
body .captioned-image-container figure:has(> a.image2-align-left),
body .captioned-image-container figure:has(> a.image2-align-right) {
float: none;
margin: 1em auto;
max-width: 100%;
width: auto;
padding: 0;
}
body .captioned-image-container figure:has(> a.image2-align-left.thefp),
body .captioned-image-container figure:has(> a.image2-align-right.thefp) =
{
margin: 1em auto;
}
body .captioned-image-container figure:has(> a.image2-offset-left),
body .captioned-image-container figure:has(> a.image2-offset-right) {
margin: 1em auto;
}
body .captioned-image-container figure:has(> a.image2-align-left) .image2=
-inset,
body .captioned-image-container figure:has(> a.image2-align-right) .image=
2-inset {
display: block;
justify-content: initial;
}
}
@media (max-width: 768px) {
body .markup div.sponsorship-campaign-embed {
margin-top: 24px;
margin-bottom: 24px;
}
body .markup div.sponsorship-campaign-embed:first-child {
margin-top: 0px;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
body .markup div.youtube-overlay,
body .markup div.vimeo-overlay {
display: none !important;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 370px) {
body .markup div.tiktok-wrap {
width: calc(95vw - 32px);
height: calc((95vw - 32px - 2px) / 0.485714);
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
body .markup div.embedded-publication-wrap .embedded-publication.show-sub=
scribe {
padding: 24px;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
body .markup div.subscription-widget-wrap .subscription-widget.show-subsc=
ribe,
body .markup div.subscription-widget-wrap-editor .subscription-widget.sho=
w-subscribe,
body .markup div.captioned-button-wrap .subscription-widget.show-subscrib=
e {
padding: 0px 24px;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
body .markup div.subscription-widget-wrap .subscription-widget.show-subsc=
ribe .subscription-widget-subscribe .button,
body .markup div.subscription-widget-wrap-editor .subscription-widget.sho=
w-subscribe .subscription-widget-subscribe .button,
body .markup div.captioned-button-wrap .subscription-widget.show-subscrib=
e .subscription-widget-subscribe .button {
padding: 10px 12px;
min-width: 110px;
}
}
@media (max-width: 650px) {
body .markup .twitter-embed,
body .markup .tweet {
padding: 12px;
}
}
@media (max-width: 650px) {
body .markup .twitter-embed .tweet-text,
body .markup .tweet .tweet-text {
font-size: 14px;
line-height: 20px;
}
}
@media (max-width: 650px) {
body .markup .twitter-embed .tweet-photos-container.two,
body .markup .tweet .tweet-photos-container.two,
body .markup .twitter-embed .tweet-photos-container.three,
body .markup .tweet .tweet-photos-container.three,
body .markup .twitter-embed .tweet-photos-container.four,
body .markup .tweet .tweet-photos-container.four {
height: 200px;
}
}
@media (max-width: 650px) {
body .markup .twitter-embed a.expanded-link .expanded-link-img,
body .markup .tweet a.expanded-link .expanded-link-img {
max-height: 180px;
}
}
@media (max-width: 650px) {
body .markup .twitter-embed a.expanded-link .expanded-link-description,
body .markup .tweet a.expanded-link .expanded-link-description {
display: none;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
body .markup .apple-podcast-container {
width: unset;
}
}
@media (max-width: 420px) {
body .markup .install-substack-app-embed img.install-substack-app-embed-i=
mg {
margin: 0 auto 16px auto;
}
}
@media (max-width: 420px) {
body .markup .install-substack-app-embed .install-substack-app-embed-text=
{
margin: 0 0 12px 0;
max-width: 100%;
width: auto;
text-align: center;
}
}
@media (max-width: 420px) {
body .markup .install-substack-app-embed .install-substack-app-embed-link=
{
display: flex;
justify-content: center;
}
}
@media screen and (min-width: 500px) {
body .header a.logo {
width: 42px;
height: 42px;
border-radius: 12px;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 420px) {
body .subscription-receipt table:first-of-type .subscription-amount .subs=
cription-discount {
width: 72px !important;
}
}
@media screen and (min-width: 481px) {
body .share-button-container {
height: auto;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 480px) {
body .share-button-container .separator {
display: block !important;
margin: 0 !important;
height: 8px !important;
border-left: none !important;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.digest .item .post-meta-item.audience {
display: none;
}
}
@media screen and (min-width: 500px) {
.digest-publication .logo img {
width: 42px;
height: 42px;
border-radius: 8px;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.comments-page .container .comment-list .collapsed-reply {
margin-left: calc(10 + 32px - 24px);
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.comment > .comment-list {
padding-left: 24px;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.finish-magic-login-modal .modal-content .container {
padding: 24px 0;
}
}
@media (max-width: 650px) {
.reader2-text-b3 {
line-height: 24px;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.reader2-text-h4 {
line-height: 24px;
}
}
@media screen and (min-width: 541px) {
.user-profile-modal {
padding-left: 12px;
padding-right: 12px;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.subscribe-widget form.form .sideBySideWrap button.rightButton {
padding: 10px 12px;
}
}
@media screen and (min-width: 541px) {
.pub-icon:hover .logo-hover,
.feed-item-icon:hover .logo-hover {
display: block;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.post-ufi.single-full-width-button .post-ufi-button-wrapper {
width: 100%;
padding: 16px;
}
.post-ufi.single-full-width-button .post-ufi-button-wrapper:empty {
display: none;
}
.post-ufi.single-full-width-button .post-ufi-button {
width: 100%;
justify-content: center;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 768px) {
.file-embed-wrapper {
padding: 0;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 768px) {
.file-embed-wrapper-editor {
padding: 0;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 768px) {
.file-embed-wrapper-editor:active {
padding: 0;
}
}
@media only screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.file-embed-button.wide,
.file-embed-error-button.wide {
display: none;
}
}
@media only screen and (min-width: 630px) {
.file-embed-button.narrow,
.file-embed-error-button.narrow {
display: none;
}
}
@media screen and (min-width: 541px) {
.audio-player-wrapper .audio-player {
min-width: 500px;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.audio-player-wrapper .audio-player .audio-player-progress {
border-left-width: 16px;
border-right-width: 16px;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.audio-player-wrapper .audio-player .audio-player-progress .audio-player-=
progress-bar .audio-player-progress-bar-popup {
top: -54px;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.audio-player-wrapper-fancy .audio-player .audio-player-progress {
border-left-width: 16px;
border-right-width: 16px;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.audio-player-wrapper-fancy .audio-player .audio-player-progress .audio-p=
layer-progress-bar .audio-player-progress-bar-popup {
top: -54px;
}
}
@media (min-width: 250px) {
.audio-player-wrapper-fancy .audio-player {
padding: 32px;
}
.audio-player-wrapper-fancy .audio-player .btn-group {
display: flex;
}
.audio-player-wrapper-fancy .audio-player .btn-group .button:last-of-type=
{
display: block;
}
}
@media (min-width: 300px) {
.audio-player-wrapper-fancy .audio-player .btn-group {
display: block;
}
.audio-player-wrapper-fancy .audio-player .btn-group .button:first-of-typ=
e {
display: block;
}
}
@media (min-width: 350px) {
.audio-player-wrapper-fancy .audio-player .audio-player-substack-logo {
display: block;
}
.audio-player-wrapper-fancy .audio-player .audio-player-title {
margin-top: 16px;
}
.audio-player-wrapper-fancy .audio-player .audio-player-hero-image-contai=
ner {
padding-top: 15%;
width: 15%;
display: block;
}
.audio-player-wrapper-fancy .audio-player .btn-group .button:first-of-typ=
e {
display: block;
}
.audio-player-wrapper-fancy .audio-player .audio-player-substack-logo {
display: block;
}
}
@media (min-width: 350px) {
.audio-player-wrapper-fancy .audio-player .audio-player-hero-image-contai=
ner {
padding-top: 25%;
width: 25%;
display: block;
}
.audio-player-wrapper-fancy .audio-player .btn-group {
display: flex;
}
.audio-player-wrapper-fancy .audio-player .btn-group .button:first-of-typ=
e {
display: block;
}
}
@media (min-width: 400px) {
.audio-player-wrapper-fancy .audio-player .audio-player-hero-image-contai=
ner {
padding-top: 40%;
width: 40%;
}
}
@media (max-width: 400px) {
.audio-player-wrapper-fancy .audio-player .btn-group {
margin-top: 12px;
}
.audio-player-wrapper-fancy .audio-player .btn-group .button {
font-size: 13px;
padding: 6px 12px;
height: auto;
margin-top: 10px;
}
}
@media (min-width: 600px) {
.audio-player-wrapper-fancy .audio-player .audio-player-hero-image-contai=
ner {
padding-top: 55%;
width: 55%;
}
}
@media (max-width: 650px) {
.poll-editor-modal {
min-width: calc(100% - 20px);
}
}
@media (max-width: 750px) {
.poll-embed .poll-anchor-target .poll-anchor-copy-button {
left: 8px;
top: 45px;
}
}
@media not all and (min-resolution: 0.001dpcm) {
@supports (-webkit-appearance: none) {
p a:not(.primary.button),
.post p:not(.button-wrapper) a:not(.primary.button),
.footnote a.footnote-anchor:not(.primary.button),
.thread-head .markup p:not(.button-wrapper) a:not(.primary.button) {
color: #51b4e9;
text-decoration: none;
}
p a:not(.primary.button):hover,
.post p:not(.button-wrapper) a:not(.primary.button):hover,
.footnote a.footnote-anchor:not(.primary.button):hover,
.thread-head .markup p:not(.button-wrapper) a:not(.primary.button):hove=
r {
text-decoration: underline;
}
}
}</style></head><body class=3D"email-body" style=3D"font-kerning: auto;--im=
age-offset-margin: -120px;"><img src=3D"https://eotrx.substackcdn.com/o/a99=
499175b108cb5/p.gif?token=3DeyJtIjoiPDIwMjYwNzI0MDY0MDEzLjMuMzg1YzcwZTQwZTF=
hNTI4Y0BtZzIuc3Vic3RhY2suY29tPiIsInUiOjE1MjE4MjMzNywiciI6InN1ZUBzYXJhaGhhcn=
ZleS5jb20iLCJkIjoibWcyLnN1YnN0YWNrLmNvbSIsInAiOjIwODAyNjg5NCwidCI6Im5ld3NsZ=
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ass=3D"email-body-container" role=3D"presentation" width=3D"100%" border=3D=
"0" cellspacing=3D"0" cellpadding=3D"0"><tbody><tr><td></td><td class=3D"co=
ntent" width=3D"550"></td><td></td></tr><tr><td></td><td class=3D"content" =
width=3D"550" align=3D"left"><div style=3D"font-size: 16px;line-height: 26p=
x;max-width: 550px;width: 100%;margin: 0 auto;overflow-wrap: break-word;"><=
table role=3D"presentation" width=3D"100%" border=3D"0" cellspacing=3D"0" c=
ellpadding=3D"0"><tbody><tr><td align=3D"right" style=3D"height:20px;"><tab=
le role=3D"presentation" width=3D"auto" border=3D"0" cellspacing=3D"0" cell=
padding=3D"0"><tbody><tr><td style=3D"vertical-align:middle;"><span class=
=3D"pencraft pc-reset reset-IxiVJZ tw-font-body tw-text-ssm tw-text-substac=
k-secondary" style=3D"font-family: SF Pro Text, -apple-system, system-ui, B=
linkMacSystemFont, Inter, Segoe UI, Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif, A=
pple Color Emoji, Segoe UI Emoji, Segoe UI Symbol;font-size: 13px;color: un=
set;list-style: none;text-decoration: unset;margin: 0;"><div class=3D"pencr=
aft pc-reset align-right-VJbKw5 size-12-mmZ61m reset-IxiVJZ" style=3D"list-=
style: none;color: unset;text-align: right;font-size: 12px;line-height: 16p=
x;text-decoration: unset;margin: 0;"><span class=3D"pencraft pc-reset reset=
-IxiVJZ" translated=3D"" style=3D"list-style: none;color: unset;text-decora=
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irect/2/eyJlIjoiaHR0cHM6Ly9sb25kb25pc3Quc3Vic3RhY2suY29tL3N1YnNjcmliZT91dG1=
fc291cmNlPWVtYWlsJnV0bV9jYW1wYWlnbj1lbWFpbC1zdWJzY3JpYmUmcj0yaWxzbjUmbmV4dD=
1odHRwcyUzQSUyRiUyRmxvbmRvbmlzdC5zdWJzdGFjay5jb20lMkZwJTJGd2hhdHMtaXQtbGlrZ=
S10by1nby1pbnRvLWxvbmRvbnMiLCJwIjoyMDgwMjY4OTQsInMiOjE2NjM2ODUsImYiOnRydWUs=
InUiOjE1MjE4MjMzNywiaWF0IjoxNzg0ODc1MjI0LCJleHAiOjIxMDA0NTEyMjQsImlzcyI6InB=
1Yi0wIiwic3ViIjoibGluay1yZWRpcmVjdCJ9.XTkR81Wu0NcL3dDIa9BRMjI135NlnRMzh2yCh=
0duaF0?" style=3D"list-style: none;color: unset;text-decoration: unset;marg=
in: 0;-webkit-text-decoration-line: underline;text-decoration-line: underli=
ne;">Subscribe here</a> for more</span></div></span></td></tr></tbody></tab=
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"presentation" style=3D"border-spacing: 0;padding: 16px 0 32px;"><tbody><tr=
><td align=3D"center" style=3D"text-align: center;padding: 0;"><a href=3D"h=
ttps://substack.com/redirect/2/eyJlIjoiaHR0cHM6Ly9sb25kb25pc3Quc3Vic3RhY2su=
Y29tL3Avd2hhdHMtaXQtbGlrZS10by1nby1pbnRvLWxvbmRvbnM_dXRtX2NhbXBhaWduPWVtYWl=
sLWhhbGYtcG9zdCZyPTJpbHNuNSZ0b2tlbj1leUoxYzJWeVgybGtJam94TlRJeE9ESXpNemNzSW=
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kUzT0RjME5qY3lNalFzSW1semN5STZJbkIxWWkweE5qWXpOamcxSWl3aWMzVmlJam9pY0c5emRD=
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ncyIsInAiOjIwODAyNjg5NCwicyI6MTY2MzY4NSwiZiI6dHJ1ZSwidSI6MTUyMTgyMzM3LCJpYX=
QiOjE3ODQ4NzUyMjQsImV4cCI6MjEwMDQ1MTIyNCwiaXNzIjoicHViLTAiLCJzdWIiOiJsaW5rL=
XJlZGlyZWN0In0.wmauD3wNtMfABNnRbd5e7z65MjJPKK1M0ht3ed3ZT14?"><img class=3D"=
header-image" role=3D"presentation" width=3D"550" height=3D"110" src=3D"htt=
ps://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Rdt4!,w_1100,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:goo=
d,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2=
Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fc04878bc-1e11-4de2-a740-761f1126a77c_1100x220.png" style=
=3D"border: none !important;vertical-align: middle;max-width: 550px;display=
: block;margin: 0 auto;height: auto;width: 100%;"></a></td></tr></tbody></t=
able><div class=3D"post typography" dir=3D"auto" style=3D"--image-offset-ma=
rgin: -120px;padding: 32px 0 0 0;font-size: 16px;line-height: 26px;"><div c=
lass=3D"post-header" role=3D"region" aria-label=3D"Post header" style=3D"fo=
nt-size: 16px;line-height: 26px;"><h1 class=3D"post-title published title-X=
77sOw" dir=3D"auto" style=3D"direction: auto;text-align: start;unicode-bidi=
: isolate;color: rgb(54,55,55);font-family: 'SF Pro Display', -apple-system=
, system-ui, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Inter', 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Helvetica, Ar=
ial, sans-serif, 'Apple Color Emoji', 'Segoe UI Emoji', 'Segoe UI Symbol';f=
ont-weight: 900;-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased;-moz-osx-font-smoothing=
: antialiased;-webkit-appearance: optimizelegibility;-moz-appearance: optim=
izelegibility;appearance: optimizelegibility;margin: 0;line-height: 36px;fo=
nt-size: 32px;"><a href=3D"https://substack.com/app-link/post?publication_i=
d=3D1663685&post_id=3D208026894&utm_source=3Dpost-email-title&utm_campaign=
=3Demail-post-title&isFreemail=3Dtrue&r=3D2ilsn5&token=3DeyJ1c2VyX2lkIjoxNT=
IxODIzMzcsInBvc3RfaWQiOjIwODAyNjg5NCwiaWF0IjoxNzg0ODc1MjI0LCJleHAiOjE3ODc0N=
jcyMjQsImlzcyI6InB1Yi0xNjYzNjg1Iiwic3ViIjoicG9zdC1yZWFjdGlvbiJ9.Mw2dH0jALLH=
VIUpVTf4TIp8FXZJii2fi8YTi7rgvTgs" style=3D"color: rgb(54,55,55);text-decora=
tion: none;">What's it Like to go into London's Sewers? A feculent photo-es=
say</a></h1><h3 class=3D"subtitle subtitle-HEEcLo" dir=3D"auto" style=3D"di=
rection: auto;text-align: start;unicode-bidi: isolate;font-family: 'SF Pro =
Display',-apple-system-headline,system-ui,-apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFont,=
'Segoe UI',Roboto,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif,'Apple Color Emoji','Segoe UI =
Emoji','Segoe UI Symbol';font-weight: normal;-webkit-font-smoothing: antial=
iased;-moz-osx-font-smoothing: antialiased;-webkit-appearance: optimizelegi=
bility;-moz-appearance: optimizelegibility;appearance: optimizelegibility;m=
argin: 4px 0 0;color: #777777;line-height: 24px;font-size: 18px;margin-top:=
12px;">You might want to postpone your breakfast for a bit...</h3><table c=
lass=3D"post-meta" role=3D"presentation" width=3D"100%" border=3D"0" cellsp=
acing=3D"0" cellpadding=3D"0" style=3D"margin: 1em 0;height: 20px;align-ite=
ms: center;"><tbody><tr><td><table role=3D"presentation" width=3D"auto" bor=
der=3D"0" cellspacing=3D"0" cellpadding=3D"0"><tbody><tr><td><table role=3D=
"presentation" width=3D"auto" border=3D"0" cellspacing=3D"0" cellpadding=3D=
"0"><tbody><tr><td style=3D"vertical-align:middle;"><div class=3D"pencraft =
pc-reset color-primary-zABazT line-height-20-t4M0El font-meta-MWBumP size-1=
1-NuY2Zx weight-medium-fw81nC transform-uppercase-yKDgcq reset-IxiVJZ meta-=
EgzBVA custom-css-email-post-author" style=3D"list-style: none;font-size: 1=
1px;line-height: 20px;text-decoration: unset;color: rgb(54,55,55);margin: 0=
;font-family: 'SF Compact',-apple-system,system-ui,-apple-system,BlinkMacSy=
stemFont,'Segoe UI',Roboto,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif,'Apple Color Emoji','=
Segoe UI Emoji','Segoe UI Symbol';font-weight: 500;text-transform: uppercas=
e;letter-spacing: .2px;"><a class=3D"pencraft pc-reset color-primary-zABazT=
line-height-20-t4M0El font-meta-MWBumP size-11-NuY2Zx weight-medium-fw81nC=
transform-uppercase-yKDgcq reset-IxiVJZ meta-EgzBVA" style=3D"list-style: =
none;color: rgb(54,55,55);margin: 0;font-size: 11px;line-height: 20px;font-=
family: 'SF Compact',-apple-system,system-ui,-apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFo=
nt,'Segoe UI',Roboto,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif,'Apple Color Emoji','Segoe =
UI Emoji','Segoe UI Symbol';font-weight: 500;text-transform: uppercase;lett=
er-spacing: .2px;text-decoration: none" href=3D"https://substack.com/@mattl=
ondonexplorer">Matt Brown</a></div></td></tr></tbody></table></td></tr><tr>=
<td><table role=3D"presentation" width=3D"auto" border=3D"0" cellspacing=3D=
"0" cellpadding=3D"0"><tbody><tr><td style=3D"vertical-align:middle;"><div =
class=3D"pencraft pc-reset color-secondary-ls1g8s line-height-20-t4M0El fon=
t-meta-MWBumP size-11-NuY2Zx weight-medium-fw81nC transform-uppercase-yKDgc=
q reset-IxiVJZ meta-EgzBVA" style=3D"list-style: none;font-size: 11px;line-=
height: 20px;text-decoration: unset;color: rgb(119,119,119);margin: 0;font-=
family: 'SF Compact',-apple-system,system-ui,-apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFo=
nt,'Segoe UI',Roboto,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif,'Apple Color Emoji','Segoe =
UI Emoji','Segoe UI Symbol';font-weight: 500;text-transform: uppercase;lett=
er-spacing: .2px;"><time datetime=3D"2026-07-24T06:40:12.055Z">Jul 24</time=
></div></td><td width=3D"4" style=3D"min-width:4px;"></td><td style=3D"vert=
ical-align:middle;"><table role=3D"presentation" width=3D"auto" border=3D"0=
" cellspacing=3D"0" cellpadding=3D"0"><tbody><tr><td style=3D"vertical-alig=
n:middle;"><div class=3D"pencraft pc-reset color-secondary-ls1g8s line-heig=
ht-20-t4M0El font-meta-MWBumP size-11-NuY2Zx weight-medium-fw81nC transform=
-uppercase-yKDgcq reset-IxiVJZ meta-EgzBVA" style=3D"list-style: none;font-=
size: 11px;line-height: 20px;text-decoration: unset;color: rgb(119,119,119)=
;margin: 0;font-family: 'SF Compact',-apple-system,system-ui,-apple-system,=
BlinkMacSystemFont,'Segoe UI',Roboto,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif,'Apple Colo=
r Emoji','Segoe UI Emoji','Segoe UI Symbol';font-weight: 500;text-transform=
: uppercase;letter-spacing: .2px;">∙</div></td><td width=3D"4" style=
=3D"min-width:4px;"></td><td style=3D"vertical-align:middle;"><div class=3D=
"pencraft pc-reset color-paid-LmY0EP line-height-20-t4M0El font-meta-MWBumP=
size-11-NuY2Zx weight-medium-fw81nC transform-uppercase-yKDgcq reset-IxiVJ=
Z meta-EgzBVA" translated=3D"" style=3D"list-style: none;font-size: 11px;li=
ne-height: 20px;text-decoration: unset;color: rgb(94,73,217);margin: 0;font=
-family: 'SF Compact',-apple-system,system-ui,-apple-system,BlinkMacSystemF=
ont,'Segoe UI',Roboto,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif,'Apple Color Emoji','Segoe=
UI Emoji','Segoe UI Symbol';font-weight: 500;text-transform: uppercase;let=
ter-spacing: .2px;">Preview</div></td></tr></tbody></table></td></tr></tbod=
y></table></td></tr></tbody></table></td><td align=3D"right"><table role=3D=
"presentation" width=3D"auto" border=3D"0" cellspacing=3D"0" cellpadding=3D=
"0"><tbody><tr><td style=3D"vertical-align:middle;"><a href=3D"https://subs=
tack.com/@mattlondonexplorer"><img class=3D"custom-css-email-avatar avatar-=
QIQ5yR" src=3D"https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!MRGx!,f_auto,q_auto:=
good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.co=
m%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fdde0ab37-0e85-423e-8f2c-3f3a6424a28b_1179x1179.jpeg" =
style=3D"box-sizing: border-box;max-width: 550px;border: none;vertical-alig=
n: middle;width: 40px;height: 40px;min-width: 40px;min-height: 40px;object-=
fit: cover;margin: 0px;display: inline;border-radius: 50%" width=3D"40" hei=
ght=3D"40"></a></td></tr></tbody></table></td></tr></tbody></table><table c=
lass=3D"email-ufi-2-top" role=3D"presentation" width=3D"100%" border=3D"0" =
cellspacing=3D"0" cellpadding=3D"0" style=3D"border-top: 1px solid rgb(0,0,=
0,.1);border-bottom: 1px solid rgb(0,0,0,.1);min-width: 100%;"><tbody><tr h=
eight=3D"16"><td height=3D"16" style=3D"font-size:0px;line-height:0;"> =
;</td></tr><tr><td><table role=3D"presentation" width=3D"100%" border=3D"0"=
cellspacing=3D"0" cellpadding=3D"0"><tbody><tr><td><table role=3D"presenta=
tion" width=3D"auto" border=3D"0" cellspacing=3D"0" cellpadding=3D"0"><tbod=
y><tr><td style=3D"vertical-align:middle;"><table role=3D"presentation" wid=
th=3D"38" border=3D"0" cellspacing=3D"0" cellpadding=3D"0"><tbody><tr><td a=
lign=3D"center"><a class=3D"email-icon-button" href=3D"https://substack.com=
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MzcsInBvc3RfaWQiOjIwODAyNjg5NCwicmVhY3Rpb24iOiLinaQiLCJpYXQiOjE3ODQ4NzUyMjQ=
sImV4cCI6MTc4NzQ2NzIyNCwiaXNzIjoicHViLTE2NjM2ODUiLCJzdWIiOiJyZWFjdGlvbiJ9.f=
BsoN_FkcDDB358dzYGMPh2ii2T7eaYiqUnvCCmr-Pk&utm_medium=3Demail&utm_campaign=
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or Emoji','Segoe UI Emoji','Segoe UI Symbol';display: inline-block;font-wei=
ght: 500;border: 1px solid rgb(0,0,0,.1);border-radius: 9999px;text-transfo=
rm: uppercase;font-size: 12px;line-height: 1;padding: 9px 0;text-decoration=
: none;color: rgb(119,119,119);min-width: 38px;box-sizing: border-box;width=
: 38px"><img class=3D"icon" src=3D"https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!=
PeVs!,w_36,c_scale,f_png,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsub=
stack.com%2Ficon%2FLucideHeart%3Fv%3D4%26height%3D36%26fill%3Dnone%26stroke=
%3D%2523808080%26strokeWidth%3D2" width=3D"18" height=3D"18" style=3D"borde=
r: none;vertical-align: middle;max-width: 18px" alt=3D""></a></td></tr></tb=
ody></table></td><td width=3D"8" style=3D"min-width:8px;"></td><td style=3D=
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=2E6em;"><tbody><tr><td style=3D"text-a=
lign: center;"></td><td class=3D"conte=
nt" align=3D"left" width=3D"800" style=3D"text-align: center;"><a class=3D"=
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ecoration: none;display: block;margin: 0;"><img class=3D"wide-image" data-a=
ttrs=3D"{"src":"https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com=
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heFold":false,"topImage":true,"internalRedirect":&=
quot;https://londonist.substack.com/i/208026894?img=3Dhttps%3A%2F%2Fsubstac=
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7e4bf32427d_800x600.jpeg","isProcessing":false,"align&q=
uot;:null,"offset":false}" alt=3D"" width=3D"550" height=3D"412.5=
" src=3D"https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!cQ46!,w_1100,c_limit,f_aut=
o,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.ama=
zonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F39daee6d-edd6-4bd4-8386-f7e4bf32427d_800x600=
=2Ejpeg" style=3D"border: none !importan=
t;vertical-align: middle;display: blo=
ck;-ms-interpolation-mode: bicubic;height: auto;margin-bottom: 0;width: aut=
o !important;max-width: 100% !important;margin: 0 auto;"></a></td><td style=
=3D"text-align: center;"></td></tr></tbody></table><figcaption class=3D"ima=
ge-caption" style=3D"box-sizing: content-box;color: rgb(119,119,119);font-s=
ize: 14px;line-height: 20px;font-weight: 400;letter-spacing: -.15px;margin-=
top: 8px;width: 70%;padding-left: 15%;padding-right: 15%;text-align: center=
;">Image: Matt Brown</figcaption></figure></div><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20p=
x 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;">Much has been =
written about Joseph Bazalgette and the Victorian sewers. What often gets l=
eft out of those accounts is the “what are they actually like?”=
bit. Having enjoyed a paddle or two myself, I thought I’d compile my=
thoughts and photos. You might not want to read this over lunch.</p><p sty=
le=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: =
16px;">That’s for the main section. First the History Radar…</p=
><h2 class=3D"header-anchor-post" style=3D"position: relative;font-family: =
'SF Pro Display',-apple-system-headline,system-ui,-apple-system,BlinkMacSys=
temFont,'Segoe UI',Roboto,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif,'Apple Color Emoji','S=
egoe UI Emoji','Segoe UI Symbol';font-weight: bold;-webkit-font-smoothing: =
antialiased;-moz-osx-font-smoothing: antialiased;-webkit-appearance: optimi=
zelegibility;-moz-appearance: optimizelegibility;appearance: optimizelegibi=
lity;margin: 1em 0 0.625em 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 1.16em;font-=
size: calc(1.625em * 1);">History Radar</h2><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;=
color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;"><em>Upcoming event=
s for fans of London history.</em></p><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color:=
rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;"><strong>🛋️=
; FREUD MUSEUM AT 40:</strong><span> The final home of Sigmund and Anna Fre=
ud in Hampstead marks four decades as a public institution. Director Anna J=
obson hosts a </span><a href=3D"https://substack.com/redirect/75ded6a6-2332=
-40b3-aa9a-6f55510f433c?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDR=
Ys6QySyrNvyrpKXA" style=3D"color: #51b4e9;text-decoration: none;">40th anni=
versary celebration</a><span> on </span><strong>28 July</strong><span>, whi=
ch features a behind-the-scenes tour of the house's 2,000 antiquities and a=
conversation with Lord David Freud, the great-grandson of the father of ps=
ychoanalysis. Explore the famous study and the magnificent art collection b=
efore concluding with a drinks reception in the museum garden.</span></p><p=
style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-si=
ze: 16px;"><strong>⛪️ FITZROVIA CHAPEL TOUR:</strong><span> Fo=
rmer Middlesex surgeon James Thomson leads an intimate 45-minute journey th=
rough the history and architecture of the stunning Grade II* listed </span>=
<a href=3D"https://substack.com/redirect/a01fce66-1df0-4edf-ba9f-e3bc8ebc70=
26?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA" sty=
le=3D"color: #51b4e9;text-decoration: none;">Fitzrovia Chapel</a><span> on =
</span><strong><span>29 July</span></strong><span>. This </span><a href=3D"=
https://substack.com/redirect/48f308e7-424a-4a4d-a9c3-fad441d86783?j=3DeyJ1=
IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA" style=3D"color=
: #51b4e9;text-decoration: none;">guided tour</a><span> explores the ornate=
gold mosaics and marble of the former hospital chapel, which remains a hid=
den sanctuary in the heart of the city.</span></p><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 2=
0px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;"><strong>=
7917; HORRIBLE HISTORIES: </strong><span>One for families. </span><span>Bou=
dica, King John, the Magna Carta, Guy Fawkes and Dick Turpin all feature in=
the latest </span><a href=3D"https://substack.com/redirect/51a074e4-a9f8-4=
599-8a07-38c5ef09efc3?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs=
6QySyrNvyrpKXA" style=3D"color: #51b4e9;text-decoration: none;">Horrible Hi=
stories stage show</a><span>, which tackles Barmy Britain. It's history wit=
h the nasty bits left in — because everyone knows that's what kids la=
tch onto. See it at the Apollo Theatre from </span><strong><span>30 July ti=
ll 31 August</span></strong><span>.</span></p><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px =
0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;"><strong>🚶=
;🏼‍♂️NIGHT WALK:</strong><span> Artists Clare Qu=
almann and Gail Burton lead </span><a href=3D"https://substack.com/redirect=
/96028675-6e77-434d-8d6b-a3a7e3c20ef1?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-p=
Y94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA" style=3D"color: #51b4e9;text-decoration: no=
ne;">a two-mile walk</a><span> through the streets of east London to mark 2=
1 years since their original urban archaeology project began. Put your phon=
e aside and navigate a route between Whitechapel and Bethnal Green using a =
re-issued map to document the shifting cityscape, and share anecdotes and o=
bservations of "things that have gone" from the local environment. </span><=
strong><span>30 July</span></strong></p><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;colo=
r: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;"><strong>👶=
997; CHILDHOOD IN WAR: </strong><span>Lambeth's Imperial War Museum opens n=
ew free exhibition </span><a href=3D"https://substack.com/redirect/c6bcdc60=
-2102-4cbc-abe6-e72ae85349e2?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hV=
TcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA" style=3D"color: #51b4e9;text-decoration: none;">Chil=
dhood in War</a><span>, exploring the experiences of children during wartim=
e from 1914 to the present day. See how aspects of life including play, sch=
ooling, health, home life and safety are all impacted by conflict. </span><=
strong><span>From 31 July</span></strong></p><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0=
;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;"><strong>🚤=
DUNKIRK LITTLE SHIPS:</strong><span> Start your August by the water, as a =
fleet of 16 Dunkirk Little Ships drops anchor at St Katharine Docks next to=
Tower Bridge. The vessels taking part in </span><a href=3D"https://substac=
k.com/redirect/54fb9e0a-00a7-4a85-8988-6499f56b0e2d?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0=
=2ETfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyr=
NvyrpKXA" style=3D"color: #51b4e9;text-=
decoration: none;">Dunkirks at the Docks</a><span> are just a handful of th=
ose which were involved in Operation Dynamo, rescuing Allied troops from th=
e beaches of northern France in 1940. </span><strong><span>1 August</span><=
/strong></p><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height=
: 26px;font-size: 16px;"><strong>⚓️ SHIPYARD TOURS: </strong><=
span>Step inside the working shipyard at The Golden Hinde (near Borough Mar=
ket) for </span><a href=3D"https://substack.com/redirect/062a20af-e7fe-42de=
-ab5e-b6ff6d71cd0e?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6Qy=
SyrNvyrpKXA" style=3D"color: #51b4e9;text-decoration: none;">a guided visit=
</a><span> that includes a 30-minute tour of the active restoration space a=
nd a 30-minute guided tour onboard the ship, explaining design, constructio=
n methods and conservation practices. </span><strong><span>2 August</span><=
/strong></p><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height=
: 26px;font-size: 16px;"><strong>🏡 LITTLE HOLLAND HOUSE:</strong><s=
pan> The monthly open day of </span><a href=3D"https://substack.com/redirec=
t/b7d30e62-6dd5-456c-a5a2-54925abc4998?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-=
pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA" style=3D"color: #51b4e9;text-decoration: n=
one;">Carshalton's Little Holland House</a><span> invites the public inside=
for tours. The former home of artist and craftsman Frank Dickinson is Grad=
e-II listed and packed with paintings, furniture, copperwork and other craf=
t objects made by Dickinson. </span><strong><span>2 August</span></strong><=
/p><div class=3D"subscribe-widget is-signed-up" data-component-name=3D"Subs=
cribeWidget" style=3D"margin: 0 0 1em;direction: ltr;font-size: 16px;line-h=
eight: 26px;"><div class=3D"pencraft pc-reset button-wrapper" style=3D"text=
-decoration: unset;list-style: none;font-size: 16px;line-height: 26px;text-=
align: center;cursor: pointer;border-radius: 4px;"><a class=3D"button subsc=
ribe-btn primary" href=3D"https://substack.com/redirect/2/eyJlIjoiaHR0cHM6L=
y9sb25kb25pc3Quc3Vic3RhY2suY29tL3N1YnNjcmliZT91dG1fc291cmNlPXBvc3QmdXRtX2Nh=
bXBhaWduPWVtYWlsLWNoZWNrb3V0Jm5leHQ9aHR0cHMlM0ElMkYlMkZsb25kb25pc3Quc3Vic3R=
hY2suY29tJTJGcCUyRndoYXRzLWl0LWxpa2UtdG8tZ28taW50by1sb25kb25zJnI9Mmlsc241Jn=
Rva2VuPWV5SjFjMlZ5WDJsa0lqb3hOVEl4T0RJek16Y3NJbWxoZENJNk1UYzRORGczTlRJeU5Dd=
2laWGh3SWpveE56ZzNORFkzTWpJMExDSnBjM01pT2lKd2RXSXRNVFkyTXpZNE5TSXNJbk4xWWlJ=
NkltTm9aV05yYjNWMEluMC5jak9fNk5yQzFVbXNKWUhJTDFuR2hGWEdiTF9SemNDczM4c3BoNks=
3cVlFIiwicCI6MjA4MDI2ODk0LCJzIjoxNjYzNjg1LCJmIjp0cnVlLCJ1IjoxNTIxODIzMzcsIm=
lhdCI6MTc4NDg3NTIyNCwiZXhwIjoyMTAwNDUxMjI0LCJpc3MiOiJwdWItMCIsInN1YiI6Imxpb=
mstcmVkaXJlY3QifQ.Eo8XkbO9h4WzYl8fbRgM7Gj1rYRVwopILgJwHgDNkgA?&utm_medium=
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ne;border-radius: 8px;font-size: 14px;line-height: 20px;font-weight: 600;te=
xt-align: center;opacity: 1;outline: none;white-space: nowrap;text-decorati=
on: none !important;margin: 0 auto;background-color: #51b4e9;color: #ffffff=
!important;padding: 12px 20px;height: auto;"><span style=3D"color: #ffffff=
;text-decoration: none;">Upgrade to paid</span></a></div></div><h2 class=3D=
"header-anchor-post" style=3D"position: relative;font-family: 'SF Pro Displ=
ay',-apple-system-headline,system-ui,-apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFont,'Sego=
e UI',Roboto,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif,'Apple Color Emoji','Segoe UI Emoji=
','Segoe UI Symbol';font-weight: bold;-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased;-=
moz-osx-font-smoothing: antialiased;-webkit-appearance: optimizelegibility;=
-moz-appearance: optimizelegibility;appearance: optimizelegibility;margin: =
1em 0 0.625em 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 1.16em;font-size: calc(1.=
625em * 1);">What’s it Like to go into London’s Sewers? A fecul=
ent photo-essay</h2><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);lin=
e-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;">“How bad did it smell?”. </p><=
p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-s=
ize: 16px;">That’s the question everyone asks when I say I’ve b=
een down the sewers.</p><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55)=
;line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;">The answer is not what you might think=
=2E Yes, there are poos down there. Of=20=
course there are. You can’t help=
but spot morsels of turd, bobbing along like ghastly croutons in an unpala=
table soup. But they are much diluted by bath, basin and shower water, laun=
dry and dishwasher outputs, and run-off from the streets. </p><p style=3D"m=
argin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;">=
The combined smell is best described as ‘farty detergent’. It i=
s the musty odour of wet clothes left forgotten in the washing machine for =
two days. If you ever had to live in shared student accommodation in the 19=
90s, then you’ve probably endured worse. </p><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 =
20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;"><span>Londo=
n’s sewer system is rightly held up as a wonder of Victorian engineer=
ing. Under the superintendence of Joseph Bazalgette, some 2,000 miles of se=
wer were built or improved in the mid-19th century, ending the ‘Big S=
tink’ that had choked the city. It’s a fascinating chapter in L=
ondon’s history, but one that’s been told in countless books an=
d articles. I’m not going to retread it here. Rather, I’m going=
to describe what it’s like to </span><em>actually tread</em><span> t=
hrough the sewers.</span></p><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,5=
5,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;">I’ve been into them five ti=
mes, lucky me. Three involved a paddle, and two were to construction sites.=
Each subterranean sortie has given me a less-than-fresh insight into our c=
ity’s bowels. So, please join me in a paddle down memory drain…=
</p><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;f=
ont-size: 16px;"><em>Note: all five trips were arranged through the proper =
channels, so to speak. Entering the sewers without permission or expert gui=
dance is highly dangerous.</em></p><h3 class=3D"header-anchor-post" style=
=3D"position: relative;font-family: 'SF Pro Display',-apple-system-headline=
,system-ui,-apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFont,'Segoe UI',Roboto,Helvetica,Ari=
al,sans-serif,'Apple Color Emoji','Segoe UI Emoji','Segoe UI Symbol';font-w=
eight: bold;-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased;-moz-osx-font-smoothing: an=
tialiased;-webkit-appearance: optimizelegibility;-moz-appearance: optimizel=
egibility;appearance: optimizelegibility;margin: 1em 0 0.625em 0;color: rgb=
(54,55,55);line-height: 1.16em;font-size: calc(1.375em * 1);">Northern Outf=
all (May 2010)</h3><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line=
-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;">My first sewer experience was also the most=
challenging. The venue was a section of the Northern Outfall Sewer on the =
southern edge of the Olympic Park. You might have walked along this sewer y=
ourself. Up above, it is a 4.3 mile cycleway and footpath known as the Gree=
nway:</p><div class=3D"captioned-image-container-static" style=3D"font-size=
: 16px;line-height: 26px;margin: 32px auto;"><figure style=3D"width: 100%;m=
argin: 0 auto;"><table class=3D"image-wrapper" width=3D"100%" border=3D"0" =
cellspacing=3D"0" cellpadding=3D"0" data-component-name=3D"Image2ToDOMStati=
c" style=3D"mso-padding-alt: 1em 0 1.6em;"><tbody><tr><td style=3D"text-ali=
gn: center;"></td><td class=3D"content" align=3D"left" width=3D"800" style=
=3D"text-align: center;"><a class=3D"image-link" target=3D"_blank" href=3D"=
https://substack.com/redirect/a12b815c-0dd8-453b-9427-8fbc9fbd0040?j=3DeyJ1=
IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA" style=3D"posit=
ion: relative;flex-direction: column;align-items: center;padding: 0;width: =
auto;height: auto;border: none;text-decoration: none;display: block;margin:=
0;"><img class=3D"wide-image" data-attrs=3D"{"src":"https:/=
/substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/b517984a-e1b9-4af2-89d1=
-aecc6e7c6355_800x600.jpeg","srcNoWatermark":null,"full=
screen":null,"imageSize":null,"height":600,"w=
idth":800,"resizeWidth":null,"bytes":258502,"=
alt":null,"title":null,"type":"image/jpeg&quo=
t;,"href":null,"belowTheFold":true,"topImage"=
:false,"internalRedirect":"https://londonist.substack.com/i/=
208026894?img=3Dhttps%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic=
%2Fimages%2Fb517984a-e1b9-4af2-89d1-aecc6e7c6355_800x600.jpeg","i=
sProcessing":false,"align":null,"offset":false}" a=
lt=3D"" width=3D"550" height=3D"412.5" src=3D"https://substackcdn.com/image=
/fetch/$s_!6BhJ!,w_1100,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/htt=
ps%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fb517984=
a-e1b9-4af2-89d1-aecc6e7c6355_800x600.jpeg" style=3D"border: none !importan=
t;vertical-align: middle;display: block;-ms-interpolation-mode: bicubic;hei=
ght: auto;margin-bottom: 0;width: auto !important;max-width: 100% !importan=
t;margin: 0 auto;"></a></td><td style=3D"text-align: center;"></td></tr></t=
body></table><figcaption class=3D"image-caption" style=3D"box-sizing: conte=
nt-box;color: rgb(119,119,119);font-size: 14px;line-height: 20px;font-weigh=
t: 400;letter-spacing: -.15px;margin-top: 8px;width: 70%;padding-left: 15%;=
padding-right: 15%;text-align: center;">Image: Matt Brown</figcaption></fig=
ure></div><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: =
26px;font-size: 16px;">Directly beneath that tarmac, it is very much the Br=
ownway: </p><div class=3D"captioned-image-container-static" style=3D"font-s=
ize: 16px;line-height: 26px;margin: 32px auto;"><figure style=3D"width: 100=
%;margin: 0 auto;"><table class=3D"image-wrapper" width=3D"100%" border=3D"=
0" cellspacing=3D"0" cellpadding=3D"0" data-component-name=3D"Image2ToDOMSt=
atic" style=3D"mso-padding-alt: 1em 0 1.6em;"><tbody><tr><td style=3D"text-=
align: center;"></td><td class=3D"content" align=3D"left" width=3D"640" sty=
le=3D"text-align: center;"><a class=3D"image-link" target=3D"_blank" href=
=3D"https://substack.com/redirect/2ef3e447-2534-467e-bf5d-770b752cd236?j=3D=
eyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA" style=3D"p=
osition: relative;flex-direction: column;align-items: center;padding: 0;wid=
th: auto;height: auto;border: none;text-decoration: none;display: block;mar=
gin: 0;"><img class=3D"wide-image" data-attrs=3D"{"src":"htt=
ps://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/1e549deb-fa7e-4e30-=
abe8-b1990b6a7363_640x387.jpeg","srcNoWatermark":null,"=
fullscreen":null,"imageSize":null,"height":387,&qu=
ot;width":640,"resizeWidth":null,"bytes":97889,&qu=
ot;alt":null,"title":null,"type":"image/jpeg&=
quot;,"href":null,"belowTheFold":true,"topImage&qu=
ot;:false,"internalRedirect":"https://londonist.substack.com=
/i/208026894?img=3Dhttps%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpub=
lic%2Fimages%2F1e549deb-fa7e-4e30-abe8-b1990b6a7363_640x387.jpeg",&quo=
t;isProcessing":false,"align":null,"offset":false}=
" alt=3D"" width=3D"550" height=3D"332.578125" src=3D"https://substackcdn.c=
om/image/fetch/$s_!Lhj7!,w_1100,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:s=
teep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2=
F1e549deb-fa7e-4e30-abe8-b1990b6a7363_640x387.jpeg" style=3D"border: none !=
important;vertical-align: middle;display: block;-ms-interpolation-mode: bic=
ubic;height: auto;margin-bottom: 0;width: auto !important;max-width: 100% !=
important;margin: 0 auto;"></a></td><td style=3D"text-align: center;"></td>=
</tr></tbody></table><figcaption class=3D"image-caption" style=3D"box-sizin=
g: content-box;color: rgb(119,119,119);font-size: 14px;line-height: 20px;fo=
nt-weight: 400;letter-spacing: -.15px;margin-top: 8px;width: 70%;padding-le=
ft: 15%;padding-right: 15%;text-align: center;">A team of ‘flushers&#=
8217; (professional sewer engineers) guide me (in blue hat) down into the w=
ater. Image: Dean Nicholas</figcaption></figure></div><p style=3D"margin: 0=
0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;">The Nort=
hern Outfall Sewer is one of London’s largest. It collects all the wa=
ste water from other sewers north of the river and ushers it eastwards towa=
rds the treatment works at Beckton. Every toileted poo and wee in north Lon=
don issues through this sewer, from the elevated turds of Hampstead to the =
royal flush of Buckingham Palace. </p><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color:=
rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;">I entered the sewer duri=
ng a dry spell and, consequently, the flow was only knee-deep. Protected by=
waders, splash jackets, hard hats and gloves, I felt coccooned from the na=
stiness of the cackish waters beneath me. Even so, one slip and I’d b=
e living up to my surname.</p><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,=
55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;">The worst part, actually, is get=
ting up and down the ladder. </p><div class=3D"captioned-image-container-st=
atic" style=3D"font-size: 16px;line-height: 26px;margin: 32px auto;"><figur=
e style=3D"width: 100%;margin: 0 auto;"><table class=3D"image-wrapper" widt=
h=3D"100%" border=3D"0" cellspacing=3D"0" cellpadding=3D"0" data-component-=
name=3D"Image2ToDOMStatic" style=3D"mso-padding-alt: 1em 0 1.6em;"><tbody><=
tr><td style=3D"text-align: center;"></td><td class=3D"content" align=3D"le=
ft" width=3D"600" style=3D"text-align: center;"><a class=3D"image-link" tar=
get=3D"_blank" href=3D"https://substack.com/redirect/42297275-4835-4c47-9cb=
f-24c30857e2cc?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrN=
vyrpKXA" style=3D"position: relative;flex-direction: column;align-items: ce=
nter;padding: 0;width: auto;height: auto;border: none;text-decoration: none=
;display: block;margin: 0;"><img class=3D"wide-image" data-attrs=3D"{"=
src":"https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/=
3184327e-843d-449a-a3af-a855e32fdb91_600x800.jpeg","srcNoWatermar=
k":null,"fullscreen":null,"imageSize":null,"h=
eight":800,"width":600,"resizeWidth":null,"by=
tes":123958,"alt":"","title":null,"=
type":"image/jpeg","href":null,"belowTheFold&=
quot;:true,"topImage":false,"internalRedirect":"ht=
tps://londonist.substack.com/i/208026894?img=3Dhttps%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-=
media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F3184327e-843d-449a-a3af-a855e32f=
db91_600x800.jpeg","isProcessing":false,"align":nu=
ll,"offset":false}" alt=3D"" title=3D"" width=3D"550" height=3D"7=
33.3333333333334" src=3D"https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!nssV!,w_11=
00,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-p=
ost-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F3184327e-843d-449a-a3af-a855=
e32fdb91_600x800.jpeg" style=3D"border: none !important;vertical-align: mid=
dle;display: block;-ms-interpolation-mode: bicubic;height: auto;margin-bott=
om: 0;width: auto !important;max-width: 100% !important;margin: 0 auto;"></=
a></td><td style=3D"text-align: center;"></td></tr></tbody></table><figcapt=
ion class=3D"image-caption" style=3D"box-sizing: content-box;color: rgb(119=
,119,119);font-size: 14px;line-height: 20px;font-weight: 400;letter-spacing=
: -.15px;margin-top: 8px;width: 70%;padding-left: 15%;padding-right: 15%;te=
xt-align: center;">Image: Matt Brown</figcaption></figure></div><p style=3D=
"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;=
">To reach the water, one must make a four- or five-metre vertical climb do=
wn a ladder. Easy enough in the civilian world, but here I must descend nea=
r-blind into the dark, senses numbed by rubber soles and gloves, and with s=
everal kilos of emergency breathing apparatus strapped to my waist. I’=
;m clipped on to a safety wire, just in case.</p><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20=
px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;">If going down=
is hard, then coming back up is worse. You don’t want to be the last=
one out. Every predecessor on the ladder has climbed in waders that have s=
pent 20 minutes on a submerged carpet of used toilet tissue. Clags and drip=
pings are left behind on the rungs, and your nose is inches away. </p><p st=
yle=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size:=
16px;">After the question about “how does it smell?”, the next=
most-common is “Did you see rats?”. Again, the answer is surpr=
ising. Very few rats lurk in sewers like the Northern Outfall, where the wa=
ter is too deep and fast for small mammals. That said, Thames Water keeps a=
plastic rat called Roland at the foot of the ladder, just for laughs.</p><=
div class=3D"captioned-image-container-static" style=3D"font-size: 16px;lin=
e-height: 26px;margin: 32px auto;"><figure style=3D"width: 100%;margin: 0 a=
uto;"><table class=3D"image-wrapper" width=3D"100%" border=3D"0" cellspacin=
g=3D"0" cellpadding=3D"0" data-component-name=3D"Image2ToDOMStatic" style=
=3D"mso-padding-alt: 1em 0 1.6em;"><tbody><tr><td style=3D"text-align: cent=
er;"></td><td class=3D"content" align=3D"left" width=3D"640" style=3D"text-=
align: center;"><a class=3D"image-link" target=3D"_blank" href=3D"https://s=
ubstack.com/redirect/5399d09a-9946-40e5-b1b9-62a3226aefe8?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc=
241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA" style=3D"position: rela=
tive;flex-direction: column;align-items: center;padding: 0;width: auto;heig=
ht: auto;border: none;text-decoration: none;display: block;margin: 0;"><img=
class=3D"wide-image" data-attrs=3D"{"src":"https://substack=
-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/f460b330-1a7a-4e81-8f70-bf7ae81d=
ee92_640x408.jpeg","srcNoWatermark":null,"fullscreen&qu=
ot;:null,"imageSize":null,"height":408,"width"=
;:640,"resizeWidth":null,"bytes":null,"alt":&=
quot;Thames Water's pet rat. A plastic fellow known as Roland. Real rats ar=
e rarely seen in the major sewers.","title":null,"type&=
quot;:null,"href":null,"belowTheFold":true,"topIma=
ge":false,"internalRedirect":null,"isProcessing":f=
alse,"align":null,"offset":false}" alt=3D"Thames Water'=
s pet rat. A plastic fellow known as Roland. Real rats are rarely seen in t=
he major sewers." title=3D"Thames Water's pet rat. A plastic fellow known a=
s Roland. Real rats are rarely seen in the major sewers." width=3D"550" hei=
ght=3D"350.625" src=3D"https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!iWnf!,w_1100=
,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-pos=
t-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff460b330-1a7a-4e81-8f70-bf7ae8=
1dee92_640x408.jpeg" style=3D"border: none !important;vertical-align: middl=
e;display: block;-ms-interpolation-mode: bicubic;height: auto;margin-bottom=
: 0;width: auto !important;max-width: 100% !important;margin: 0 auto;"></a>=
</td><td style=3D"text-align: center;"></td></tr></tbody></table><figcaptio=
n class=3D"image-caption" style=3D"box-sizing: content-box;color: rgb(119,1=
19,119);font-size: 14px;line-height: 20px;font-weight: 400;letter-spacing: =
-.15px;margin-top: 8px;width: 70%;padding-left: 15%;padding-right: 15%;text=
-align: center;">Roland</figcaption></figure></div><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 =
20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;">My visit th=
at day also included a look around Abbey Mills Pumping Station, the unexpec=
tedly gorgeous Victorian engine house, which was traditionally used to rais=
e the sewer water to the top of a fresh gradient on its continued journey t=
o Beckton treatment works. Abbey Mills and its sister pumping station at Cr=
ossness are article-worthy structures in their own right, so I’ll sav=
e them for a later newsletter. However, I must include this map of the majo=
r sewers, which greets visitors to the pumping station:</p><div class=3D"ca=
ptioned-image-container-static" style=3D"font-size: 16px;line-height: 26px;=
margin: 32px auto;"><figure style=3D"width: 100%;margin: 0 auto;"><table cl=
ass=3D"image-wrapper" width=3D"100%" border=3D"0" cellspacing=3D"0" cellpad=
ding=3D"0" data-component-name=3D"Image2ToDOMStatic" style=3D"mso-padding-a=
lt: 1em 0 1.6em;"><tbody><tr><td style=3D"text-align: center;"></td><td cla=
ss=3D"content" align=3D"left" width=3D"800" style=3D"text-align: center;"><=
a class=3D"image-link" target=3D"_blank" href=3D"https://substack.com/redir=
ect/4f717ac3-1ebc-4063-92ff-074b77b06987?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vC=
q-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA" style=3D"position: relative;flex-directi=
on: column;align-items: center;padding: 0;width: auto;height: auto;border: =
none;text-decoration: none;display: block;margin: 0;"><img class=3D"wide-im=
age" data-attrs=3D"{"src":"https://substack-post-media.s3.am=
azonaws.com/public/images/3f2660fb-08dd-420e-a19d-d089ed85b0ef_800x600.jpeg=
","srcNoWatermark":null,"fullscreen":null,"im=
ageSize":null,"height":600,"width":800,"resiz=
eWidth":null,"bytes":215087,"alt":"",&qu=
ot;title":null,"type":"image/jpeg","href"=
;:null,"belowTheFold":true,"topImage":false,"inter=
nalRedirect":"https://londonist.substack.com/i/208026894?img=3Dht=
tps%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F3f2660=
fb-08dd-420e-a19d-d089ed85b0ef_800x600.jpeg","isProcessing":=
false,"align":null,"offset":false}" alt=3D"" title=3D""=
width=3D"550" height=3D"412.5" src=3D"https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/=
$s_!OrOR!,w_1100,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2=
F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F3f2660fb-08dd-=
420e-a19d-d089ed85b0ef_800x600.jpeg" style=3D"border: none !important;verti=
cal-align: middle;display: block;-ms-interpolation-mode: bicubic;height: au=
to;margin-bottom: 0;width: auto !important;max-width: 100% !important;margi=
n: 0 auto;"></a></td><td style=3D"text-align: center;"></td></tr></tbody></=
table><figcaption class=3D"image-caption" style=3D"box-sizing: content-box;=
color: rgb(119,119,119);font-size: 14px;line-height: 20px;font-weight: 400;=
letter-spacing: -.15px;margin-top: 8px;width: 70%;padding-left: 15%;padding=
-right: 15%;text-align: center;">Image: Matt Brown</figcaption></figure></d=
iv><div class=3D"subscribe-widget is-signed-up" data-component-name=3D"Subs=
cribeWidget" style=3D"margin: 0 0 1em;direction: ltr;font-size: 16px;line-h=
eight: 26px;"><div class=3D"pencraft pc-reset button-wrapper" style=3D"text=
-decoration: unset;list-style: none;font-size: 16px;line-height: 26px;text-=
align: center;cursor: pointer;border-radius: 4px;"><a class=3D"button subsc=
ribe-btn primary" href=3D"https://substack.com/redirect/2/eyJlIjoiaHR0cHM6L=
y9sb25kb25pc3Quc3Vic3RhY2suY29tL3N1YnNjcmliZT91dG1fc291cmNlPXBvc3QmdXRtX2Nh=
bXBhaWduPWVtYWlsLWNoZWNrb3V0Jm5leHQ9aHR0cHMlM0ElMkYlMkZsb25kb25pc3Quc3Vic3R=
hY2suY29tJTJGcCUyRndoYXRzLWl0LWxpa2UtdG8tZ28taW50by1sb25kb25zJnI9Mmlsc241Jn=
Rva2VuPWV5SjFjMlZ5WDJsa0lqb3hOVEl4T0RJek16Y3NJbWxoZENJNk1UYzRORGczTlRJeU5Dd=
2laWGh3SWpveE56ZzNORFkzTWpJMExDSnBjM01pT2lKd2RXSXRNVFkyTXpZNE5TSXNJbk4xWWlJ=
NkltTm9aV05yYjNWMEluMC5jak9fNk5yQzFVbXNKWUhJTDFuR2hGWEdiTF9SemNDczM4c3BoNks=
3cVlFIiwicCI6MjA4MDI2ODk0LCJzIjoxNjYzNjg1LCJmIjp0cnVlLCJ1IjoxNTIxODIzMzcsIm=
lhdCI6MTc4NDg3NTIyNCwiZXhwIjoyMTAwNDUxMjI0LCJpc3MiOiJwdWItMCIsInN1YiI6Imxpb=
mstcmVkaXJlY3QifQ.Eo8XkbO9h4WzYl8fbRgM7Gj1rYRVwopILgJwHgDNkgA?&utm_medium=
=3Demail&utm_source=3Dsubscribe-widget&utm_content=3D208026894" style=3D"fo=
nt-family: system-ui,-apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFont,'Segoe UI',Roboto,Hel=
vetica,Arial,sans-serif,'Apple Color Emoji','Segoe UI Emoji','Segoe UI Symb=
ol';display: inline-block;box-sizing: border-box;cursor: pointer;border: no=
ne;border-radius: 8px;font-size: 14px;line-height: 20px;font-weight: 600;te=
xt-align: center;opacity: 1;outline: none;white-space: nowrap;text-decorati=
on: none !important;margin: 0 auto;background-color: #51b4e9;color: #ffffff=
!important;padding: 12px 20px;height: auto;"><span style=3D"color: #ffffff=
;text-decoration: none;">Upgrade to paid</span></a></div></div><h3 class=3D=
"header-anchor-post" style=3D"position: relative;font-family: 'SF Pro Displ=
ay',-apple-system-headline,system-ui,-apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFont,'Sego=
e UI',Roboto,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif,'Apple Color Emoji','Segoe UI Emoji=
','Segoe UI Symbol';font-weight: bold;-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased;-=
moz-osx-font-smoothing: antialiased;-webkit-appearance: optimizelegibility;=
-moz-appearance: optimizelegibility;appearance: optimizelegibility;margin: =
1em 0 0.625em 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 1.16em;font-size: calc(1.=
375em * 1);">Into the River Fleet (August 2010)</h3><p style=3D"margin: 0 0=
20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;">Just three=
months after my taste of the Northern Outfall, I got an invitation to samp=
le a rather different waterway. The Fleet Sewer runs from Hampstead down to=
Blackfriars. It carries the natural waters of the River Fleet, one of the =
‘lost rivers of London’ that once flowed freely through fields,=
but is now relegated underground. It also conveys lots of nasties, though =
on this occasion the waters were low and I was able to admire the brickwork=
without too much fear of a dunking.</p><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;colo=
r: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;">Our entrance site was =
on Farringdon Street, not far from Holborn Viaduct. I’ll show you the=
rough location on the John Rocque map of 1746, by which time this stretch =
of the Fleet had already been covered:</p><div class=3D"captioned-image-con=
tainer-static" style=3D"font-size: 16px;line-height: 26px;margin: 32px auto=
;"><figure style=3D"width: 100%;margin: 0 auto;"><table class=3D"image-wrap=
per" width=3D"100%" border=3D"0" cellspacing=3D"0" cellpadding=3D"0" data-c=
omponent-name=3D"Image2ToDOMStatic" style=3D"mso-padding-alt: 1em 0 1.6em;"=
><tbody><tr><td style=3D"text-align: center;"></td><td class=3D"content" al=
ign=3D"left" width=3D"1456" style=3D"text-align: center;"><a class=3D"image=
-link" target=3D"_blank" href=3D"https://substack.com/redirect/20dfcb42-9e1=
7-4d20-82e2-e7decda739bd?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrD=
RYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA" style=3D"position: relative;flex-direction: column;align=
-items: center;padding: 0;width: auto;height: auto;border: none;text-decora=
tion: none;display: block;margin: 0;"><img class=3D"wide-image" data-attrs=
=3D"{"src":"https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/pub=
lic/images/1a6d1a20-62ec-4cd5-bd11-fdc148429c67_1468x1302.png","s=
rcNoWatermark":null,"fullscreen":null,"imageSize":=
null,"height":1291,"width":1456,"resizeWidth"=
:null,"bytes":3627617,"alt":null,"title":null=
,"type":"image/png","href":null,"belowTh=
eFold":true,"topImage":false,"internalRedirect":&q=
uot;https://londonist.substack.com/i/208026894?img=3Dhttps%3A%2F%2Fsubstack=
-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1a6d1a20-62ec-4cd5-bd11-fd=
c148429c67_1468x1302.png","isProcessing":false,"align&q=
uot;:null,"offset":false}" alt=3D"" width=3D"550" height=3D"487.6=
717032967033" src=3D"https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!qb4T!,w_1100,c=
_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-=
media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F1a6d1a20-62ec-4cd5-bd11-fdc14842=
9c67_1468x1302.png" style=3D"border: none !important;vertical-align: middle=
;display: block;-ms-interpolation-mode: bicubic;height: auto;margin-bottom:=
0;width: auto !important;max-width: 100% !important;margin: 0 auto;"></a><=
/td><td style=3D"text-align: center;"></td></tr></tbody></table><figcaption=
class=3D"image-caption" style=3D"box-sizing: content-box;color: rgb(119,11=
9,119);font-size: 14px;line-height: 20px;font-weight: 400;letter-spacing: -=
=2E15px;margin-top: 8px;width: 70%;padd=
ing-left: 15%;padding-right: 15%;text-=
align: center;"><span>Image: John Rocque map of 1746, public domain, </span=
><a href=3D"https://substack.com/redirect/0bfc247f-0db7-4ebb-bb5e-41a1c559d=
d3e?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA" st=
yle=3D"text-decoration: underline;">colourised by me</a><span>.</span></fig=
caption></figure></div><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);=
line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;">As you can see, the covering of the riv=
er created a wide, linear space, which was soon colonised by market buildin=
gs. Curiously, the Fleet Sewer, to this day, still bifurcates at this point=
, flowing to either side of where those buildings once stood, perhaps to av=
oid foundations. </p><div class=3D"captioned-image-container-static" style=
=3D"font-size: 16px;line-height: 26px;margin: 32px auto;"><figure style=3D"=
width: 100%;margin: 0 auto;"><table class=3D"image-wrapper" width=3D"100%" =
border=3D"0" cellspacing=3D"0" cellpadding=3D"0" data-component-name=3D"Ima=
ge2ToDOMStatic" style=3D"mso-padding-alt: 1em 0 1.6em;"><tbody><tr><td styl=
e=3D"text-align: center;"></td><td class=3D"content" align=3D"left" width=
=3D"600" style=3D"text-align: center;"><a class=3D"image-link" target=3D"_b=
lank" href=3D"https://substack.com/redirect/00c8531f-428e-452f-a39c-d7e4494=
3f9c3?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA" =
style=3D"position: relative;flex-direction: column;align-items: center;padd=
ing: 0;width: auto;height: auto;border: none;text-decoration: none;display:=
block;margin: 0;"><img class=3D"wide-image" data-attrs=3D"{"src"=
:"https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/621a6291-=
f8d8-4267-a294-dc7b771ff803_600x800.jpeg","srcNoWatermark":n=
ull,"fullscreen":null,"imageSize":null,"height&quo=
t;:800,"width":600,"resizeWidth":null,"bytes"=
:63601,"alt":null,"title":null,"type":"i=
mage/jpeg","href":null,"belowTheFold":true,"t=
opImage":false,"internalRedirect":"https://londonist.su=
bstack.com/i/208026894?img=3Dhttps%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws=
=2Ecom%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F621a6291-f8d=
8-4267-a294-dc7b771ff803_600x800.jpeg&=
quot;,"isProcessing":false,"align":null,"offset&qu=
ot;:false}" alt=3D"" width=3D"550" height=3D"733.3333333333334" src=3D"http=
s://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!1jEm!,w_1100,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good=
,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2F=
public%2Fimages%2F621a6291-f8d8-4267-a294-dc7b771ff803_600x800.jpeg" style=
=3D"border: none !important;vertical-align: middle;display: block;-ms-inter=
polation-mode: bicubic;height: auto;margin-bottom: 0;width: auto !important=
;max-width: 100% !important;margin: 0 auto;"></a></td><td style=3D"text-ali=
gn: center;"></td></tr></tbody></table><figcaption class=3D"image-caption" =
style=3D"box-sizing: content-box;color: rgb(119,119,119);font-size: 14px;li=
ne-height: 20px;font-weight: 400;letter-spacing: -.15px;margin-top: 8px;wid=
th: 70%;padding-left: 15%;padding-right: 15%;text-align: center;">Me in the=
Fleet Sewer. Film-maker Dan Snow had preceded me into the sewer that day, =
and I believe I got to wear the waders he’d just vacated. Image: A PR=
person whose name I’ve forgotten, but it was on my camera, so presum=
ably is my copyright.</figcaption></figure></div><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20=
px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;">(I must apolo=
gise for the quality of the photos from this visit, by the way. The lens ke=
pt misting up in the humid air of the tunnel.)</p><div class=3D"captioned-i=
mage-container-static" style=3D"font-size: 16px;line-height: 26px;margin: 3=
2px auto;"><figure style=3D"width: 100%;margin: 0 auto;"><table class=3D"im=
age-wrapper" width=3D"100%" border=3D"0" cellspacing=3D"0" cellpadding=3D"0=
" data-component-name=3D"Image2ToDOMStatic" style=3D"mso-padding-alt: 1em 0=
1.6em;"><tbody><tr><td style=3D"text-align: center;"></td><td class=3D"con=
tent" align=3D"left" width=3D"640" style=3D"text-align: center;"><a class=
=3D"image-link" target=3D"_blank" href=3D"https://substack.com/redirect/792=
b3669-cf9a-44b0-a57d-53cf87480617?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94W=
hF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA" style=3D"position: relative;flex-direction: col=
umn;align-items: center;padding: 0;width: auto;height: auto;border: none;te=
xt-decoration: none;display: block;margin: 0;"><img class=3D"wide-image" da=
ta-attrs=3D"{"src":"https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws=
=2Ecom/public/images/6d2333a3-e427-4631=
-a0e6-f081e1ceeea2_640x427.jpeg",=
"srcNoWatermark":null,"fullscreen":null,"imageSize=
":null,"height":427,"width":640,"resizeWidth&=
quot;:null,"bytes":144025,"alt":null,"title":=
null,"type":"image/jpeg","href":null,"be=
lowTheFold":true,"topImage":false,"internalRedirect&quo=
t;:"https://londonist.substack.com/i/208026894?img=3Dhttps%3A%2F%2Fsub=
stack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F6d2333a3-e427-4631-a0=
e6-f081e1ceeea2_640x427.jpeg","isProcessing":false,"ali=
gn":null,"offset":false}" alt=3D"" width=3D"550" height=3D"3=
66.953125" src=3D"https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!tN4J!,w_1100,c_li=
mit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-med=
ia.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F6d2333a3-e427-4631-a0e6-f081e1ceeea=
2_640x427.jpeg" style=3D"border: none !important;vertical-align: middle;dis=
play: block;-ms-interpolation-mode: bicubic;height: auto;margin-bottom: 0;w=
idth: auto !important;max-width: 100% !important;margin: 0 auto;"></a></td>=
<td style=3D"text-align: center;"></td></tr></tbody></table><figcaption cla=
ss=3D"image-caption" style=3D"box-sizing: content-box;color: rgb(119,119,11=
9);font-size: 14px;line-height: 20px;font-weight: 400;letter-spacing: -.15p=
x;margin-top: 8px;width: 70%;padding-left: 15%;padding-right: 15%;text-alig=
n: center;">One of the bifurcation points, where the flow gets a little fas=
ter. Image: Matt Brown</figcaption></figure></div><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 2=
0px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;">Walking agai=
nst the limited current was relatively easy. The stream flowed barely highe=
r than ankle level, and only the risk of slipping slowed me down. I was Fle=
et of foot, if not fleet of foot. </p><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color:=
rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;"><span>I’ve got to =
say, the curves of the tunnels and the intricate brickwork at junctions are=
simply gorgeous. My condensation-prone camera wasn’t really up to th=
e job, but others have been down here with better kit and taken </span><a h=
ref=3D"https://substack.com/redirect/c074aad9-02bf-4d32-b7b8-c1d6c6142f5f?j=
=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA" style=
=3D"color: #51b4e9;text-decoration: none;">mesmerising images</a><span>.</s=
pan></p><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26=
px;font-size: 16px;">You wouldn’t want to be down here during a storm=
, mind, when the level can approach the ceiling. At these times, the system=
can be overwhelmed. Traditionally, a series of one-way valves would allow =
the swollen Fleet to disgorge into the Thames, but now we have the ‘s=
upersewer’ (more below) to capture most of that run-off.</p><h3 class=
=3D"header-anchor-post" style=3D"position: relative;font-family: 'SF Pro Di=
splay',-apple-system-headline,system-ui,-apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFont,'S=
egoe UI',Roboto,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif,'Apple Color Emoji','Segoe UI Em=
oji','Segoe UI Symbol';font-weight: bold;-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiase=
d;-moz-osx-font-smoothing: antialiased;-webkit-appearance: optimizelegibili=
ty;-moz-appearance: optimizelegibility;appearance: optimizelegibility;margi=
n: 1em 0 0.625em 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 1.16em;font-size: calc=
(1.375em * 1);">The Lee Tunnel (April 2015)</h3><div class=3D"captioned-ima=
ge-container-static" style=3D"font-size: 16px;line-height: 26px;margin: 32p=
x auto;"><figure style=3D"width: 100%;margin: 0 auto;"><table class=3D"imag=
e-wrapper" width=3D"100%" border=3D"0" cellspacing=3D"0" cellpadding=3D"0" =
data-component-name=3D"Image2ToDOMStatic" style=3D"mso-padding-alt: 1em 0 1=
=2E6em;"><tbody><tr><td style=3D"text-a=
lign: center;"></td><td class=3D"conte=
nt" align=3D"left" width=3D"800" style=3D"text-align: center;"><a class=3D"=
image-link" target=3D"_blank" href=3D"https://substack.com/redirect/9ed5235=
2-f06a-4ad7-8473-d46e638f05eb?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9h=
VTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA" style=3D"position: relative;flex-direction: column;=
align-items: center;padding: 0;width: auto;height: auto;border: none;text-d=
ecoration: none;display: block;margin: 0;"><img class=3D"wide-image" data-a=
ttrs=3D"{"src":"https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com=
/public/images/b33af929-87ce-4a17-a3de-80c005d62601_800x532.jpeg",&quo=
t;srcNoWatermark":null,"fullscreen":null,"imageSize&quo=
t;:null,"height":532,"width":800,"resizeWidth"=
;:null,"bytes":113733,"alt":null,"title":null=
,"type":"image/jpeg","href":null,"belowT=
heFold":true,"topImage":false,"internalRedirect":&=
quot;https://londonist.substack.com/i/208026894?img=3Dhttps%3A%2F%2Fsubstac=
k-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fb33af929-87ce-4a17-a3de-8=
0c005d62601_800x532.jpeg","isProcessing":false,"align&q=
uot;:null,"offset":false}" alt=3D"" width=3D"550" height=3D"365.7=
5" src=3D"https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!RTUb!,w_1100,c_limit,f_au=
to,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.am=
azonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fb33af929-87ce-4a17-a3de-80c005d62601_800x53=
2.jpeg" style=3D"border: none !important;vertical-align: middle;display: bl=
ock;-ms-interpolation-mode: bicubic;height: auto;margin-bottom: 0;width: au=
to !important;max-width: 100% !important;margin: 0 auto;"></a></td><td styl=
e=3D"text-align: center;"></td></tr></tbody></table><figcaption class=3D"im=
age-caption" style=3D"box-sizing: content-box;color: rgb(119,119,119);font-=
size: 14px;line-height: 20px;font-weight: 400;letter-spacing: -.15px;margin=
-top: 8px;width: 70%;padding-left: 15%;padding-right: 15%;text-align: cente=
r;">Image: Matt Brown</figcaption></figure></div><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20=
px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;">I got to visi=
t this sewer before ever it tasted the uric tang of effluent. This is the L=
ee Tunnel, a 4.3-mile sewer from Abbey Mills to Beckton. It was built about=
a decade ago as the first component of the ‘Thames Tideway’ su=
persewer, a huge project to stop sewage discharging into the river.</p><p s=
tyle=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size=
: 16px;margin-bottom: 0;">The Lee Tunnel is the deepest in London. The entr=
ance shaft at Beckton is 80 metres below surface level — twice the he=
ight of the Albert Hall, if that helps Beatles fans solve the 60-year-old r=
iddle about how many holes it takes to fill said building. I expected to be=
ushered towards a stairwell. Instead, I was asked to climb into a cage. Th=
is was hitched to the site’s tower crane, which gradually lowered me =
into the gaping maw…...</p></div></div><div class=3D"paywall paywall-=
white-background" data-testid=3D"paywall" data-component-name=3D"Paywall" r=
ole=3D"region" aria-label=3D"Paywall" style=3D"position: relative;font-fami=
ly: system-ui,-apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFont,'Segoe UI',Roboto,Helvetica,=
Arial,sans-serif,'Apple Color Emoji','Segoe UI Emoji','Segoe UI Symbol';tex=
t-align: center;margin-bottom: 16px;cursor: default;-webkit-user-select: no=
ne;-moz-user-select: none;-ms-user-select: none;user-select: none;line-heig=
ht: 26px;font-size: 16px;padding: 32px 24px 16px 24px;background: rgb(255,2=
55,255);color: rgb(54,55,55);border-top: solid 2px #51b4e9;margin-top: 6px;=
"><h2 class=3D"paywall-title" style=3D"font-family: 'SF Pro Display',-apple=
-system-headline,system-ui,-apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFont,'Segoe UI',Robo=
to,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif,'Apple Color Emoji','Segoe UI Emoji','Segoe U=
I Symbol';-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased;-moz-osx-font-smoothing: anti=
aliased;-webkit-appearance: optimizelegibility;-moz-appearance: optimizeleg=
ibility;appearance: optimizelegibility;margin: 0 auto;color: inherit !impor=
tant;font-size: 22px;font-weight: 700;line-height: 33px;margin-bottom: 6px;=
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haWduPWVtYWlsLWNoZWNrb3V0Jm5leHQ9aHR0cHMlM0ElMkYlMkZsb25kb25pc3Quc3Vic3RhY2=
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m_source=3Dpaywall&utm_medium=3Demail&utm_content=3D208026894&next=3Dhttps:=
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