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Subject: The London of Samuel Pepys
From: "Londonist: Time Machine" <londonist@substack.com>
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View this post on the web at https://londonist.substack.com/p/the-london-of=
-samuel-pepys
Welcome to Londonist: Time Machine.
I=E2=80=99m on holiday! In my absence, I=E2=80=99m delighted to publish the=
following guest article by Paul Kendall, on the London of Samuel Pepys.
Paul=E2=80=99s new book, Samuel Pepys in 50 Places and Objects [ https://su=
bstack.com/redirect/d6bed1b9-e5b5-4dd2-ab70-f49c5b4f8eba?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc2=
41In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA ], was recently published=
by Amberley. What follows is an edited excerpt, picking out just six of th=
e more important locations from the diarist=E2=80=99s life. The book packs =
in much, much more.
The London of Samuel Pepys
Samuel Pepys was born in 1633 in Salisbury Court, a small lane south of Fle=
et Street. Although remembered for the detailed accounts of the plague and =
the Great Fire, his diary also provided a fascinating chronicle of his dail=
y work as Clerk of the Acts of the Navy Board, and his interactions with fe=
llow civil servants, dockyard commissioners, King Charles II and his brothe=
r James, Duke of York, the Lord High Admiral, who later became King James I=
I. The diary encapsulates all aspects of London life in the 17th century, s=
howing how people lived, worked and socialised.=20
Pepys recorded his regular visits to coffee houses, taverns, theatres, bear=
-baiting pits, prize fighting, and =E2=80=94 with incredible candour =E2=80=
=94 his excursions to brothels.
Here, we go on a tour of six London locations with strong Samuel Pepys ass=
ociations.
1. Seething Lane Garden, City of London
A plaque in Seething Lane Garden marks the site of the Navy Office where Pe=
pys worked as Clerk of the Acts of the Navy Board from 1660 to 1673. Here, =
he became an effective, diligent administrator who would help to restructur=
e and revolutionise England=E2=80=99s navy into the effective fighting forc=
e that it became during the following three centuries.
Pepys was sleeping at the Navy Office when he was woken by his servant Jane=
at 3am on 2 September 1666. A fire was ablaze in London. He looked out of =
her window and thought it was a distance away, so he returned to bed. When =
he rose again at 7am, he learned that 300 houses had been destroyed, and th=
at the fire was now burning down Fish Street towards London Bridge. Pepys h=
eaded south along Seething Lane to All Hallows by the Tower, where he climb=
ed to the steeple to witness the fire engulf the city.
As the flames ravaged London, Pepys decided to bury valuable items in the g=
arden of the Navy Office, including official papers and personal items such=
as his wine collection and =E2=80=94 most famously =E2=80=94 his Parmesan =
cheese.=20
He recorded in his diary:
=E2=80=98The fire coming on in that narrow street [Tower Street], on both s=
ides, with infinite fury. Sir W. Batten not knowing how to remove his wine,=
did dig a pit in the garden, and laid it in there; and I took the opportun=
ity of laying all the papers of my office that I could not otherwise dispos=
e of. And in the evening Sir W. Pen [sic Penn] and I did dig another and pu=
t our wine in it; and I my Parmazan [sic Parmesan] cheese, as well as my wi=
ne and some other things.=E2=80=99
The Navy Office survived the Great Fire of 1666, only to succumb to another=
fire in 1673. The site is now a garden dedicated to Samuel Pepys. As well =
as the plaque to the Navy Office, a bust of Samuel Pepys stands in the cent=
re of Seething Lane Garden. Pepys was passionate about playing and composin=
g music. Inscribed on the memorial are musical scales relating to the song =
=E2=80=98Beauty Retire=E2=80=99, which Pepys composed. Look also to the flo=
or, where a number of stone carvings show objects relating to Pepys =E2=80=
=94 including the Parmesan.
St Olave=E2=80=99s Church is located at the north end of Seething Lane. Pep=
ys frequently worshipped here where he had his own pew. It was where he and=
his wife Elisabeth were buried. Various memorials to the pair can be found=
within.
2. Banqueting House, Whitehall
Pepys was a staunch Roundhead during his youth and on 30 January 1649, he w=
itnessed the execution of King Charles I at the Banqueting House, which for=
med part of Whitehall Palace. Eleven years later his allegiance had transfe=
rred to the monarchy. In his role as Clerk of the Acts of the Navy Board, P=
epys was a frequent visitor to the Banqueting House.
On 23 August 1662, Pepys watched from the roof of Banqueting House, as Quee=
n Catherine=E2=80=99s river procession returned to London from Hampton Cour=
t Palace. He wrote:
=E2=80=98Up to the top of the new Banqueting House there, over the Thames, =
which was a most pleasant place as any I could have got; and all the show c=
onsisted chiefly in the number of boats and barges; and two pageants, one o=
f a King, and another of a Queen=E2=80=99.
The pageantry on the River Thames was not the main event in the diary durin=
g that day, however, for Pepys was ogling Barbara Palmer, Countess of Castl=
emaine, a lady who was unattainable but the focus of his desire nonetheless=
=2E He confided, =E2=80=98that which pleas=
ed me best was, that my Lady Castle=
maine stood over against us upon a piece of White Hall, where I glutted mys=
elf with looking on her.=E2=80=99
The Banqueting House was a place where King Charles II discussed matters of=
state, received foreign dignitaries and rewarded his subjects. Sometimes P=
epys was present during those occasions. He was there on 29 December 1662, =
watching from the gallery as the King received Russian ambassadors. He did =
not feel safe:
=E2=80=98Thence to White Hall, and got up to the top gallerys [sic gallerie=
s] in the Banquetting [sic], to see the audience of the Russian Embassadors=
[sic]; which [took place] after long waiting and fear of the falling of th=
e gallery (it being so full, and part of it being parted from the rest, for=
nobody to come up merely from the weakness thereof): and very handsome it =
was=E2=80=99.
3. St Margaret=E2=80=99s Church, Westminster
Pepys married Elisabeth St Michel at St Margaret=E2=80=99s Church on 10 Oct=
ober 1655. She was 14 (it was two weeks before her 15th birthday) and he wa=
s 23.
Despite Elisabeth being an attractive woman, Pepys was unable to live by hi=
s marriage vows and be faithful to her. He took various mistresses and, sad=
ly, he was a serial womaniser, stalker and molester. One target was Betty H=
owlett, daughter of a bookseller in Westminster Hall, whom he enjoyed oglin=
g in the very church where he had made his wedding vows. Howlett was at St =
Margaret=E2=80=99s with her husband and parents on 13 May 1666, when Pepys =
records:
=E2=80=98=E2=80=A6through to Westminster, and fell by chance into St Margar=
et=E2=80=99s Church, where I heard a young man play the fall upon the doctr=
ine of purgatory. At this church I spied Betty Howlett, who indeed is might=
y pretty, and struck me mightily=E2=80=99.
Pepys would commit further misdemeanours in St Margaret=E2=80=99s Church. O=
n 26 May 1667, he records:
=E2=80=98After dinner I by water alone to Westminster =E2=80=A6 did go to t=
he parish church =E2=80=A6 I did entertain myself with my perspective glass=
[a kind of telescope] up and down the church, by which I had the great ple=
asure of seeing and gazing at a great many very fine women; and what with t=
hat, and sleeping, I passed away the time till sermon was done, and then to=
Mrs. Martin [his mistress of the time], and there staid with her an hour o=
r two, and there did what I would with her=E2=80=99.
He did occasionally pay attention to the sermons. Preaching from the Book o=
f Common Prayer in church had been forbidden under the rule of Oliver Cromw=
ell since 1649, but at St Margaret=E2=80=99s Church on 5 August 1660 Pepys =
wrote: =E2=80=98After dinner to St Margaret=E2=80=99s, where the first time=
I ever heard Common Prayer in the church.=E2=80=99
4. Prince Henry=E2=80=99s Room, Fleet Street
Pepys visited this building when it was known as the Fountain Tavern. Locat=
ed at 17 Fleet Street, Prince Henry=E2=80=99s Room is one of the few City b=
uildings that survived the Great Fire into our own time. It was built c.161=
0, during the same year as Prince Henry, son of King James I, was invested =
as the Prince of Wales =E2=80=93 hence the building was named the Prince=E2=
=80=99s Tavern. Pepys describes drinking here in his diary several times, a=
t a time when it was known as the Fountain.
On 14 October 1661, Pepys visited with William Pym, the tailor of Sir Edwar=
d Montagu, Earl of Sandwich, who was based in the Strand close to the taver=
n. On that night they celebrated the birthday of James, Duke of York. Pepys=
wrote: =E2=80=98And there he [Pym] went with us to the Fountain tavern and=
did give us store of wine.=E2=80=99 Pepys also spent a raucous evening her=
e on 28 November 1661: =E2=80=98To the Fountain tavern, and there staid til=
l twelve at night drinking and singing.=E2=80=99
Prince Henry=E2=80=99s Room still stands, and gives an idea of how Fleet St=
reet must have looked when Pepys walked through it on business to Whitehall=
or when returning from an alcohol-fuelled evening.
5. Samuel Pepys=E2=80=99 House, 12 Buckingham Street, Westminster
This building is Pepys=E2=80=99 only existing London abode, and it was his =
home from July 1679 to 1688. This was a difficult time for Pepys. He had be=
en arrested and imprisoned in the Tower on suspicion of holding Catholic sy=
mpathies. Released on bail, he moved into the home of his friend and former=
clerk Will Hewer. Though free, he still had to prepare his defence against=
charges of treason.
Pepys continued to live here after his acquittal, residing with Mary Skinne=
r, with whom he had been in a relationship since around 1670, following the=
death of his wife, Elisabeth, in 1669.
In 1684, Pepys was reappointed in a new role as Secretary for Admiralty Aff=
airs, reporting directly to the king at Windsor Castle. However, similar to=
the situation at the Navy Office in Seething Lane, which served as his hom=
e and place of work, Pepys preferred to use this residence as his office fo=
r the new role, for which the king granted him permission. By arrangement w=
ith Hewer, who relinquished the lease of the house, Pepys was able to trans=
fer his staff at the Admiralty Office from Derby House and relocate the off=
ice to Buckingham Street.
Pepys lived here until 1688, and this house is Pepys=E2=80=99 only London r=
esidence to have survived. The building has retained an old oak stairway th=
at would have been used by Pepys.
6. Stone Entrance to Gatehouse Prison
Built in 1370 close to the western entrance of Westminster Abbey, this ston=
e gateway is the only remnant of the jail where Samuel Pepys was briefly im=
prisoned. On 4 May 1689, Pepys was arrested on the charge of treason agains=
t King William III, and of being a Jacobite in an effort to restore James I=
I to the throne. Once again, Pepys was the victim of wrongful arrest for ch=
arges that were false and unfounded.=20
He was locked up in the Gatehouse Prison until 15 June. Lord Braybrooke wro=
te of Pepys=E2=80=99 incarceration:=20
=E2=80=98=E2=80=A6they procured his comital to the Gate-house, upon pretenc=
e of his being affected to King James; but he was soon permitted, on accoun=
t of ill health, to return to his own house and there is no further mention=
of the charge.=E2=80=99=20
This was a pivotal moment because, from then on, Pepys withdrew from public=
life.
The Gatehouse Prison was demolished in 1776 and the stone entrance is the o=
nly remnant to survive. It was returned to its original site in 1969.
To discover another 44 places and objects, read Samuel Pepys in 50 Places a=
nd Objects [ https://substack.com/redirect/d6bed1b9-e5b5-4dd2-ab70-f49c5b4f=
8eba?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA ] =
by Paul Kendall, now available from Amberley.
Thanks for reading this guest post. Your regular author Matt will be back o=
n Friday with something a bit playful. Email him any time on matt@londonist=
=2Ecom
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.typography .markup .tweet .tweet-text,
.typography.editor .markup .tweet .tweet-text {
font-size: 14px;
line-height: 20px;
}
}
@media (max-width: 650px) {
.typography .markup .twitter-embed .tweet-photos-container.two,
.typography.editor .markup .twitter-embed .tweet-photos-container.two,
.typography .markup .tweet .tweet-photos-container.two,
.typography.editor .markup .tweet .tweet-photos-container.two,
.typography .markup .twitter-embed .tweet-photos-container.three,
.typography.editor .markup .twitter-embed .tweet-photos-container.three,
.typography .markup .tweet .tweet-photos-container.three,
.typography.editor .markup .tweet .tweet-photos-container.three,
.typography .markup .twitter-embed .tweet-photos-container.four,
.typography.editor .markup .twitter-embed .tweet-photos-container.four,
.typography .markup .tweet .tweet-photos-container.four,
.typography.editor .markup .tweet .tweet-photos-container.four {
height: 200px;
}
}
@media (max-width: 650px) {
.typography .markup .twitter-embed a.expanded-link .expanded-link-img,
.typography.editor .markup .twitter-embed a.expanded-link .expanded-link-=
img,
.typography .markup .tweet a.expanded-link .expanded-link-img,
.typography.editor .markup .tweet a.expanded-link .expanded-link-img {
max-height: 180px;
}
}
@media (max-width: 650px) {
.typography .markup .twitter-embed a.expanded-link .expanded-link-descrip=
tion,
.typography.editor .markup .twitter-embed a.expanded-link .expanded-link-=
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.typography .markup .tweet a.expanded-link .expanded-link-description,
.typography.editor .markup .tweet a.expanded-link .expanded-link-descript=
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display: none;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.typography .markup .apple-podcast-container,
.typography.editor .markup .apple-podcast-container {
width: unset;
}
}
@media (max-width: 420px) {
.typography .markup .install-substack-app-embed img.install-substack-app-=
embed-img,
.typography.editor .markup .install-substack-app-embed img.install-substa=
ck-app-embed-img {
margin: 0 auto 16px auto;
}
}
@media (max-width: 420px) {
.typography .markup .install-substack-app-embed .install-substack-app-emb=
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.typography.editor .markup .install-substack-app-embed .install-substack-=
app-embed-text {
margin: 0 0 12px 0;
max-width: 100%;
width: auto;
text-align: center;
}
}
@media (max-width: 420px) {
.typography .markup .install-substack-app-embed .install-substack-app-emb=
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.typography.editor .markup .install-substack-app-embed .install-substack-=
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display: flex;
justify-content: center;
}
}
@media screen and (min-width: 481px) {
.share-button-container {
height: 38px;
}
}
@media screen and (min-width: 481px) {
.share-button-container a.comment {
height: 38px;
line-height: 38px;
padding-right: 10px;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 480px) {
.share-button-container .separator {
display: block;
margin: 0;
height: 8px;
border-left: none;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 480px) {
.share-button-container a.share.first img {
padding-left: 0;
}
}
@media screen and (min-width: 481px) {
.share-button-container a.mobile {
display: none !important;
}
}
@media screen and (min-width: 541px) {
.settings-add-pub-modal-wrapper .container .add-recommending-pub-modal-co=
ntainer {
padding: 36px;
height: 680px;
}
}
@media screen and (min-width: 541px) {
.settings-add-pub-modal-wrapper .container .add-recommending-pub-modal-co=
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position: absolute;
bottom: 36px;
margin: 0px;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.header-anchor-parent {
display: none;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 768px) {
.post {
padding: 16px 0 0 0;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.post .post-header .post-label {
margin-top: 8px;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.post .post-header .meta-author-wrap.alternative-meta .meta-right-column =
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margin-top: 6px;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.post .footer-facepile-container {
height: 64px;
padding: 0 16px;
display: flex;
align-items: center;
justify-content: flex-start;
width: 100%;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.post .post-footer.use-separators {
justify-content: center;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.post .post-footer.next-prev {
height: 64px;
justify-content: space-between;
box-sizing: border-box;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.post-contributor-footer .post-contributor-bio-table {
display: block;
}
.post-contributor-footer .post-contributor-bio-table-row {
display: flex;
flex-direction: row;
}
.post-contributor-footer .post-contributor-bio-userhead-cell,
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display: block;
}
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flex-grow: 1;
}
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display: block;
}
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display: block;
}
.post-contributor-footer .post-contributor-bio-copy-cell,
.post-contributor-footer .post-contributor-bio-controls-cell {
display: block;
}
.post-contributor-footer .post-contributor-bio-copy-cell {
margin: 0 0 16px 0;
}
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width: auto;
}
.post-contributor-footer .post-contributor-bio-controls {
margin: auto;
}
.post-contributor-footer .post-contributor-bio-controls .button.primary {
width: 100%;
}
.post-contributor-footer .post-contributor-bio-text {
font-size: 14px;
}
}
@media screen and (min-width: 768px) {
.post-silhouette {
padding: 32px 0;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.post-silhouette .post-silhouette-title {
margin-top: 10.44225025px;
height: 120px;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.post-silhouette .post-silhouette-meta {
width: 75%;
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}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.post-silhouette .post-silhouette-meta.with-byline-image {
margin: 20px 0;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.use-theme-bg .post-meta.alternative-meta .post-meta-item,
.post-meta.alternative-meta .post-meta-item {
padding-right: 16px;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 370px) {
.use-theme-bg .post-meta.alternative-meta .post-meta-item,
.post-meta.alternative-meta .post-meta-item {
font-size: 14px;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.use-theme-bg .post-meta.alternative-meta .post-meta-item.guest-author-pu=
blication,
.post-meta.alternative-meta .post-meta-item.guest-author-publication {
display: none;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 370px) {
.post-meta .post-meta-item .post-meta-button {
height: 36px !important;
/* important to override in-line height style on emails */
}
.post-meta .post-meta-item .post-meta-button .meta-button-label {
display: none;
}
.post-meta .post-meta-item .post-meta-button > svg {
margin-right: 0;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 370px) {
.post-meta .post-meta-item {
font-size: 12px;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.post .floating-subscribe-button {
bottom: 20px;
right: 20px;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 480px) {
body.bulwark-email-thebulwark .bulwark-email-title {
font-size: 32px !important;
line-height: 36px !important;
}
}
@media (max-width: 1024px) {
body .pullquote-align-left,
body .pullquote-align-right,
body .pullquote-align-wide,
body .pullquote-align-center {
float: none;
margin: 0 auto;
width: 100%;
max-width: 100%;
}
}
@media all and (-ms-high-contrast: none), (-ms-high-contrast: active) {
body .markup table.image-wrapper img,
body .markup table.kindle-wrapper img {
max-width: 550px;
}
}
@media (min-width: 1024px) {
body:not(:has(#toc)) .captioned-image-container figure:has(> a.image2-off=
set-left) {
margin-left: var(--image-offset-margin);
}
body:not(:has(#toc)) .captioned-image-container figure:has(> a.image2-off=
set-right) {
margin-right: var(--image-offset-margin);
}
}
@media (min-width: 1300px) {
body .captioned-image-container figure:has(> a.image2-offset-left) {
margin-left: var(--image-offset-margin);
}
body .captioned-image-container figure:has(> a.image2-offset-right) {
margin-right: var(--image-offset-margin);
}
}
@media (max-width: 1024px) {
body {
/* Disable offset on mobile/tablet */
}
body .captioned-image-container figure:has(> a.image2-align-left),
body .captioned-image-container figure:has(> a.image2-align-right) {
float: none;
margin: 1em auto;
max-width: 100%;
width: auto;
padding: 0;
}
body .captioned-image-container figure:has(> a.image2-align-left.thefp),
body .captioned-image-container figure:has(> a.image2-align-right.thefp) =
{
margin: 1em auto;
}
body .captioned-image-container figure:has(> a.image2-offset-left),
body .captioned-image-container figure:has(> a.image2-offset-right) {
margin: 1em auto;
}
body .captioned-image-container figure:has(> a.image2-align-left) .image2=
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body .captioned-image-container figure:has(> a.image2-align-right) .image=
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display: block;
justify-content: initial;
}
}
@media (max-width: 768px) {
body .markup div.sponsorship-campaign-embed {
margin-top: 24px;
margin-bottom: 24px;
}
body .markup div.sponsorship-campaign-embed:first-child {
margin-top: 0px;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
body .markup div.youtube-overlay,
body .markup div.vimeo-overlay {
display: none !important;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 370px) {
body .markup div.tiktok-wrap {
width: calc(95vw - 32px);
height: calc((95vw - 32px - 2px) / 0.485714);
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
body .markup div.embedded-publication-wrap .embedded-publication.show-sub=
scribe {
padding: 24px;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
body .markup div.subscription-widget-wrap .subscription-widget.show-subsc=
ribe,
body .markup div.subscription-widget-wrap-editor .subscription-widget.sho=
w-subscribe,
body .markup div.captioned-button-wrap .subscription-widget.show-subscrib=
e {
padding: 0px 24px;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
body .markup div.subscription-widget-wrap .subscription-widget.show-subsc=
ribe .subscription-widget-subscribe .button,
body .markup div.subscription-widget-wrap-editor .subscription-widget.sho=
w-subscribe .subscription-widget-subscribe .button,
body .markup div.captioned-button-wrap .subscription-widget.show-subscrib=
e .subscription-widget-subscribe .button {
padding: 10px 12px;
min-width: 110px;
}
}
@media (max-width: 650px) {
body .markup .twitter-embed,
body .markup .tweet {
padding: 12px;
}
}
@media (max-width: 650px) {
body .markup .twitter-embed .tweet-text,
body .markup .tweet .tweet-text {
font-size: 14px;
line-height: 20px;
}
}
@media (max-width: 650px) {
body .markup .twitter-embed .tweet-photos-container.two,
body .markup .tweet .tweet-photos-container.two,
body .markup .twitter-embed .tweet-photos-container.three,
body .markup .tweet .tweet-photos-container.three,
body .markup .twitter-embed .tweet-photos-container.four,
body .markup .tweet .tweet-photos-container.four {
height: 200px;
}
}
@media (max-width: 650px) {
body .markup .twitter-embed a.expanded-link .expanded-link-img,
body .markup .tweet a.expanded-link .expanded-link-img {
max-height: 180px;
}
}
@media (max-width: 650px) {
body .markup .twitter-embed a.expanded-link .expanded-link-description,
body .markup .tweet a.expanded-link .expanded-link-description {
display: none;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
body .markup .apple-podcast-container {
width: unset;
}
}
@media (max-width: 420px) {
body .markup .install-substack-app-embed img.install-substack-app-embed-i=
mg {
margin: 0 auto 16px auto;
}
}
@media (max-width: 420px) {
body .markup .install-substack-app-embed .install-substack-app-embed-text=
{
margin: 0 0 12px 0;
max-width: 100%;
width: auto;
text-align: center;
}
}
@media (max-width: 420px) {
body .markup .install-substack-app-embed .install-substack-app-embed-link=
{
display: flex;
justify-content: center;
}
}
@media screen and (min-width: 500px) {
body .header a.logo {
width: 42px;
height: 42px;
border-radius: 12px;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 420px) {
body .subscription-receipt table:first-of-type .subscription-amount .subs=
cription-discount {
width: 72px !important;
}
}
@media screen and (min-width: 481px) {
body .share-button-container {
height: auto;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 480px) {
body .share-button-container .separator {
display: block !important;
margin: 0 !important;
height: 8px !important;
border-left: none !important;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.digest .item .post-meta-item.audience {
display: none;
}
}
@media screen and (min-width: 500px) {
.digest-publication .logo img {
width: 42px;
height: 42px;
border-radius: 8px;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.comments-page .container .comment-list .collapsed-reply {
margin-left: calc(10 + 32px - 24px);
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.comment > .comment-list {
padding-left: 24px;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.finish-magic-login-modal .modal-content .container {
padding: 24px 0;
}
}
@media (max-width: 650px) {
.reader2-text-b3 {
line-height: 24px;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.reader2-text-h4 {
line-height: 24px;
}
}
@media screen and (min-width: 541px) {
.user-profile-modal {
padding-left: 12px;
padding-right: 12px;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.subscribe-widget form.form .sideBySideWrap button.rightButton {
padding: 10px 12px;
}
}
@media screen and (min-width: 541px) {
.pub-icon:hover .logo-hover,
.feed-item-icon:hover .logo-hover {
display: block;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.post-ufi.single-full-width-button .post-ufi-button-wrapper {
width: 100%;
padding: 16px;
}
.post-ufi.single-full-width-button .post-ufi-button-wrapper:empty {
display: none;
}
.post-ufi.single-full-width-button .post-ufi-button {
width: 100%;
justify-content: center;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 768px) {
.file-embed-wrapper {
padding: 0;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 768px) {
.file-embed-wrapper-editor {
padding: 0;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 768px) {
.file-embed-wrapper-editor:active {
padding: 0;
}
}
@media only screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.file-embed-button.wide,
.file-embed-error-button.wide {
display: none;
}
}
@media only screen and (min-width: 630px) {
.file-embed-button.narrow,
.file-embed-error-button.narrow {
display: none;
}
}
@media screen and (min-width: 541px) {
.audio-player-wrapper .audio-player {
min-width: 500px;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.audio-player-wrapper .audio-player .audio-player-progress {
border-left-width: 16px;
border-right-width: 16px;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.audio-player-wrapper .audio-player .audio-player-progress .audio-player-=
progress-bar .audio-player-progress-bar-popup {
top: -54px;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.audio-player-wrapper-fancy .audio-player .audio-player-progress {
border-left-width: 16px;
border-right-width: 16px;
}
}
@media screen and (max-width: 650px) {
.audio-player-wrapper-fancy .audio-player .audio-player-progress .audio-p=
layer-progress-bar .audio-player-progress-bar-popup {
top: -54px;
}
}
@media (min-width: 250px) {
.audio-player-wrapper-fancy .audio-player {
padding: 32px;
}
.audio-player-wrapper-fancy .audio-player .btn-group {
display: flex;
}
.audio-player-wrapper-fancy .audio-player .btn-group .button:last-of-type=
{
display: block;
}
}
@media (min-width: 300px) {
.audio-player-wrapper-fancy .audio-player .btn-group {
display: block;
}
.audio-player-wrapper-fancy .audio-player .btn-group .button:first-of-typ=
e {
display: block;
}
}
@media (min-width: 350px) {
.audio-player-wrapper-fancy .audio-player .audio-player-substack-logo {
display: block;
}
.audio-player-wrapper-fancy .audio-player .audio-player-title {
margin-top: 16px;
}
.audio-player-wrapper-fancy .audio-player .audio-player-hero-image-contai=
ner {
padding-top: 15%;
width: 15%;
display: block;
}
.audio-player-wrapper-fancy .audio-player .btn-group .button:first-of-typ=
e {
display: block;
}
.audio-player-wrapper-fancy .audio-player .audio-player-substack-logo {
display: block;
}
}
@media (min-width: 350px) {
.audio-player-wrapper-fancy .audio-player .audio-player-hero-image-contai=
ner {
padding-top: 25%;
width: 25%;
display: block;
}
.audio-player-wrapper-fancy .audio-player .btn-group {
display: flex;
}
.audio-player-wrapper-fancy .audio-player .btn-group .button:first-of-typ=
e {
display: block;
}
}
@media (min-width: 400px) {
.audio-player-wrapper-fancy .audio-player .audio-player-hero-image-contai=
ner {
padding-top: 40%;
width: 40%;
}
}
@media (max-width: 400px) {
.audio-player-wrapper-fancy .audio-player .btn-group {
margin-top: 12px;
}
.audio-player-wrapper-fancy .audio-player .btn-group .button {
font-size: 13px;
padding: 6px 12px;
height: auto;
margin-top: 10px;
}
}
@media (min-width: 600px) {
.audio-player-wrapper-fancy .audio-player .audio-player-hero-image-contai=
ner {
padding-top: 55%;
width: 55%;
}
}
@media (max-width: 650px) {
.poll-editor-modal {
min-width: calc(100% - 20px);
}
}
@media (max-width: 750px) {
.poll-embed .poll-anchor-target .poll-anchor-copy-button {
left: 8px;
top: 45px;
}
}
@media not all and (min-resolution: 0.001dpcm) {
@supports (-webkit-appearance: none) {
p a:not(.primary.button),
.post p:not(.button-wrapper) a:not(.primary.button),
.footnote a.footnote-anchor:not(.primary.button),
.thread-head .markup p:not(.button-wrapper) a:not(.primary.button) {
color: #51b4e9;
text-decoration: none;
}
p a:not(.primary.button):hover,
.post p:not(.button-wrapper) a:not(.primary.button):hover,
.footnote a.footnote-anchor:not(.primary.button):hover,
.thread-head .markup p:not(.button-wrapper) a:not(.primary.button):hove=
r {
text-decoration: underline;
}
}
}</style></head><body class=3D"email-body" style=3D"font-kerning: auto;--im=
age-offset-margin: -120px;"><img src=3D"https://eotrx.substackcdn.com/o/2ff=
dff5af065bf34/p.gif?token=3DeyJtIjoiPDIwMjYwODA1MDY0MDM0LjMuZjY4NDgwZmQ4MDB=
hYzM1NEBtZy1kMC5zdWJzdGFjay5jb20-IiwidSI6MTUyMTgyMzM3LCJyIjoic3VlQHNhcmFoaG=
FydmV5LmNvbSIsImQiOiJtZy1kMC5zdWJzdGFjay5jb20iLCJwIjoyMDkyNjYyNzUsInQiOiJuZ=
XdzbGV0dGVyIiwiYSI6ImV2ZXJ5b25lIiwicyI6MTY2MzY4NSwiYyI6InBvc3QiLCJmIjp0cnVl=
LCJwb3NpdGlvbiI6InRvcCIsImlhdCI6MTc4NTkxMjA0NSwiZXhwIjoxNzg4NTA0MDQ1LCJpc3M=
iOiJwdWItMCIsInN1YiI6ImVvIn0.aRL8ZdUD2XAHhxUVue6Gq_EFxSzuxqanXjefn7EBzUA" a=
lt=3D"" width=3D"1" height=3D"1" border=3D"0" style=3D"height:1px !importan=
t;width:1px !important;border-width:0 !important;margin-top:0 !important;ma=
rgin-bottom:0 !important;margin-right:0 !important;margin-left:0 !important=
;padding-top:0 !important;padding-bottom:0 !important;padding-right:0 !impo=
rtant;padding-left:0 !important;"/><div class=3D"preview" style=3D"display:=
none;font-size:1px;color:#333333;line-height:1px;max-height:0px;max-width:0=
px;opacity:0;overflow:hidden;">A guest post on the famous diarist's London =
haunts.</div><div class=3D"preview" style=3D"display:none;font-size:1px;col=
or:#333333;line-height:1px;max-height:0px;max-width:0px;opacity:0;overflow:=
hidden;">͏   ­͏   ­͏ &nb=
sp;   ­͏   ­͏   ­&=
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ss=3D"email-body-container" role=3D"presentation" width=3D"100%" border=3D"=
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on" style=3D"border-spacing: 0;padding: 16px 0 32px;"><tbody><tr><td align=
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ImV4cCI6MjEwMTQ4ODA0NCwiaXNzIjoicHViLTAiLCJzdWIiOiJsaW5rLXJlZGlyZWN0In0.7RV=
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teep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2=
Fc04878bc-1e11-4de2-a740-761f1126a77c_1100x220.png" style=3D"border: none !=
important;vertical-align: middle;max-width: 550px;display: block;margin: 0 =
auto;height: auto;width: 100%;"></a></td></tr></tbody></table><div class=3D=
"post typography" dir=3D"auto" style=3D"--image-offset-margin: -120px;paddi=
ng: 32px 0 0 0;font-size: 16px;line-height: 26px;"><div class=3D"post-heade=
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" style=3D"direction: auto;text-align: start;unicode-bidi: isolate;color: r=
gb(54,55,55);overflow-wrap: break-word;word-break: keep-all;font-family: 'S=
F Pro Display', -apple-system, system-ui, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Inter', 'Seg=
oe UI', Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif, 'Apple Color Emoji', 'Segoe U=
I Emoji', 'Segoe UI Symbol';font-weight: 900;-webkit-font-smoothing: antial=
iased;-moz-osx-font-smoothing: antialiased;-webkit-appearance: optimizelegi=
bility;-moz-appearance: optimizelegibility;appearance: optimizelegibility;m=
argin: 0;line-height: 36px;font-size: 32px;"><a href=3D"https://substack.co=
m/app-link/post?publication_id=3D1663685&post_id=3D209266275&utm_source=3Dp=
ost-email-title&utm_campaign=3Demail-post-title&isFreemail=3Dtrue&r=3D2ilsn=
5&token=3DeyJ1c2VyX2lkIjoxNTIxODIzMzcsInBvc3RfaWQiOjIwOTI2NjI3NSwiaWF0IjoxN=
zg1OTEyMDQ0LCJleHAiOjE3ODg1MDQwNDQsImlzcyI6InB1Yi0xNjYzNjg1Iiwic3ViIjoicG9z=
dC1yZWFjdGlvbiJ9.HKt1yxH__4VJJthKDdt8PVIXgL3nQGNUDbg3eXftLw4" style=3D"colo=
r: rgb(54,55,55);text-decoration: none;">The London of Samuel Pepys</a></h1=
><h3 class=3D"subtitle subtitle-HEEcLo" dir=3D"auto" style=3D"direction: au=
to;text-align: start;unicode-bidi: isolate;font-family: 'SF Pro Display',-a=
pple-system-headline,system-ui,-apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFont,'Segoe UI',=
Roboto,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif,'Apple Color Emoji','Segoe UI Emoji','Seg=
oe UI Symbol';font-weight: normal;-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased;-moz-=
osx-font-smoothing: antialiased;-webkit-appearance: optimizelegibility;-moz=
-appearance: optimizelegibility;appearance: optimizelegibility;margin: 4px =
0 0;color: #777777;overflow-wrap: break-word;word-break: keep-all;line-heig=
ht: 24px;font-size: 18px;margin-top: 12px;">A guest post on the famous diar=
ist's London haunts.</h3><table class=3D"post-meta" role=3D"presentation" w=
idth=3D"100%" border=3D"0" cellspacing=3D"0" cellpadding=3D"0" style=3D"mar=
gin: 1em 0;height: 20px;align-items: center;"><tbody><tr><td><table role=3D=
"presentation" width=3D"auto" border=3D"0" cellspacing=3D"0" cellpadding=3D=
"0"><tbody><tr><td><table role=3D"presentation" width=3D"auto" border=3D"0"=
cellspacing=3D"0" cellpadding=3D"0"><tbody><tr><td style=3D"vertical-align=
:middle;"><div class=3D"pencraft pc-reset color-primary-zABazT line-height-=
20-t4M0El font-meta-MWBumP size-11-NuY2Zx weight-medium-fw81nC transform-up=
percase-yKDgcq reset-IxiVJZ meta-EgzBVA custom-css-email-post-author" style=
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ystem-ui,-apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFont,'Segoe UI',Roboto,Helvetica,Arial=
,sans-serif,'Apple Color Emoji','Segoe UI Emoji','Segoe UI Symbol';font-wei=
ght: 500;text-transform: uppercase;letter-spacing: .2px;"><a class=3D"pencr=
aft pc-reset color-primary-zABazT line-height-20-t4M0El font-meta-MWBumP si=
ze-11-NuY2Zx weight-medium-fw81nC transform-uppercase-yKDgcq reset-IxiVJZ m=
eta-EgzBVA" style=3D"list-style: none;color: rgb(54,55,55);margin: 0;font-s=
ize: 11px;line-height: 20px;font-family: 'SF Compact',-apple-system,system-=
ui,-apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFont,'Segoe UI',Roboto,Helvetica,Arial,sans-=
serif,'Apple Color Emoji','Segoe UI Emoji','Segoe UI Symbol';font-weight: 5=
00;text-transform: uppercase;letter-spacing: .2px;text-decoration: none" hr=
ef=3D"https://substack.com/@mattlondonexplorer">Matt Brown</a></div></td></=
tr></tbody></table></td></tr><tr><td><table role=3D"presentation" width=3D"=
auto" border=3D"0" cellspacing=3D"0" cellpadding=3D"0"><tbody><tr><td style=
=3D"vertical-align:middle;"><div class=3D"pencraft pc-reset color-secondary=
-ls1g8s line-height-20-t4M0El font-meta-MWBumP size-11-NuY2Zx weight-medium=
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style: none;font-size: 11px;line-height: 20px;text-decoration: unset;color:=
rgb(119,119,119);margin: 0;font-family: 'SF Compact',-apple-system,system-=
ui,-apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFont,'Segoe UI',Roboto,Helvetica,Arial,sans-=
serif,'Apple Color Emoji','Segoe UI Emoji','Segoe UI Symbol';font-weight: 5=
00;text-transform: uppercase;letter-spacing: .2px;"><time datetime=3D"2026-=
08-05T06:40:34.784Z">Aug 5</time></div></td></tr></tbody></table></td></tr>=
</tbody></table></td><td align=3D"right"><table role=3D"presentation" width=
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x;height: 40px;min-width: 40px;min-height: 40px;object-fit: cover;margin: 0=
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body></table></td></tr></tbody></table></td></tr><tr height=3D"16"><td heig=
ht=3D"16" style=3D"font-size:0px;line-height:0;"> </td></tr></tbody></=
table></div></div><div class=3D"post typography" dir=3D"auto" style=3D"--im=
age-offset-margin: -120px;padding: 32px 0 0 0;font-size: 16px;line-height: =
26px;"><div class=3D"body markup" dir=3D"auto" style=3D"text-align: initial=
;font-size: 16px;line-height: 26px;width: 100%;margin-bottom: 16px;overflow=
-wrap: anywhere;word-break: break-word;font-family: 'SF Pro Display', -appl=
e-system, system-ui, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'Inter', 'Segoe UI', Roboto, Helve=
tica, Arial, sans-serif, 'Apple Color Emoji', 'Segoe UI Emoji', 'Segoe UI S=
ymbol';font-weight: 400;"><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,5=
5);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;margin-top: 0;"><em>Welcome to Londoni=
st: Time Machine.</em></p><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,5=
5);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;"><strong>I’m on holiday!</stron=
g><span> In my absence, I’m delighted to publish the following guest =
article by Paul Kendall, on the London of Samuel Pepys.</span></p><p style=
=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16=
px;"><span>Paul’s new book, </span><a href=3D"https://substack.com/re=
direct/d6bed1b9-e5b5-4dd2-ab70-f49c5b4f8eba?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC=
2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA" style=3D"color: #51b4e9;text-decorati=
on: none;">Samuel Pepys in 50 Places and Objects</a><span>, was recently pu=
blished by Amberley. What follows is an edited excerpt, picking out just si=
x of the more important locations from the diarist’s life. The book p=
acks in much, much more.</span></p><h1 class=3D"header-anchor-post" style=
=3D"position: relative;font-family: 'SF Pro Display',-apple-system-headline=
,system-ui,-apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFont,'Segoe UI',Roboto,Helvetica,Ari=
al,sans-serif,'Apple Color Emoji','Segoe UI Emoji','Segoe UI Symbol';font-w=
eight: bold;-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased;-moz-osx-font-smoothing: an=
tialiased;-webkit-appearance: optimizelegibility;-moz-appearance: optimizel=
egibility;appearance: optimizelegibility;margin: 1em 0 0.625em 0;color: rgb=
(54,55,55);line-height: 1.16em;overflow-wrap: break-word;word-break: keep-a=
ll;font-size: calc(2em * 1);">The London of Samuel Pepys</h1><p style=3D"ma=
rgin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;"><=
span>Samuel Pepys was born in 1633 in Salisbury Court, a small lane south o=
f Fleet Street. Although remembered for the detailed accounts of the plague=
and the Great Fire, his diary also provided a fascinating chronicle of his=
daily work as Clerk of the Acts of the Navy Board, and his interactions wi=
th fellow civil servants, dockyard commissioners, King Charles II and his b=
rother James, Duke of York, the Lord High Admiral, who later became King Ja=
mes II. The diary encapsulates all aspects of London life in the 17th centu=
ry, showing how people lived, worked and socialised. </span></p><p style=3D=
"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;=
"><span>Pepys recorded his regular visits to coffee houses, taverns, theatr=
es, bear-baiting pits, prize fighting, and — with incredible candour =
— his excursions to brothels.</span></p><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px =
0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;"><span> Here, we =
go on a tour of six London locations with strong Samuel Pepys associations.=
</span></p><h2 class=3D"header-anchor-post" style=3D"position: relative;fon=
t-family: 'SF Pro Display',-apple-system-headline,system-ui,-apple-system,B=
linkMacSystemFont,'Segoe UI',Roboto,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif,'Apple Color=
Emoji','Segoe UI Emoji','Segoe UI Symbol';font-weight: bold;-webkit-font-s=
moothing: antialiased;-moz-osx-font-smoothing: antialiased;-webkit-appearan=
ce: optimizelegibility;-moz-appearance: optimizelegibility;appearance: opti=
mizelegibility;margin: 1em 0 0.625em 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 1.=
16em;overflow-wrap: break-word;word-break: keep-all;font-size: calc(1.625em=
* 1);"><span>1. Seething Lane Garden, City of London</span></h2><p style=
=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16=
px;"><span>A plaque in Seething Lane Garden marks the site of the Navy Offi=
ce where Pepys worked as Clerk of the Acts of the Navy Board from 1660 to 1=
673. Here, he became an effective, diligent administrator who would help to=
restructure and revolutionise England’s navy into the effective figh=
ting force that it became during the following three centuries.</span></p><=
div class=3D"captioned-image-container-static" style=3D"font-size: 16px;lin=
e-height: 26px;margin: 32px auto;"><figure style=3D"width: 100%;margin: 0 a=
uto;"><table class=3D"image-wrapper" width=3D"100%" border=3D"0" cellspacin=
g=3D"0" cellpadding=3D"0" data-component-name=3D"Image2ToDOMStatic" style=
=3D"mso-padding-alt: 1em 0 1.6em;"><tbody><tr><td style=3D"text-align: cent=
er;"></td><td class=3D"content" align=3D"left" width=3D"1000" style=3D"text=
-align: center;"><a class=3D"image-link" target=3D"_blank" href=3D"https://=
substack.com/redirect/e13455c9-544e-4e0a-b5da-464a72083a47?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmls=
c241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA" style=3D"position: rel=
ative;flex-direction: column;align-items: center;padding: 0;width: auto;hei=
ght: auto;border: none;text-decoration: none;display: block;margin: 0;"><im=
g class=3D"wide-image" data-attrs=3D"{"src":"https://substac=
k-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/f2f3268b-4f14-407d-88ac-7a429eb=
43d1e_1000x813.jpeg","srcNoWatermark":null,"fullscreen&=
quot;:null,"imageSize":null,"height":813,"width&qu=
ot;:1000,"resizeWidth":null,"bytes":373645,"alt&qu=
ot;:null,"title":null,"type":"image/jpeg",&qu=
ot;href":null,"belowTheFold":true,"topImage":false=
,"internalRedirect":"https://londonist.substack.com/i/209266=
275?img=3Dhttps%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fima=
ges%2Ff2f3268b-4f14-407d-88ac-7a429eb43d1e_1000x813.jpeg","isProc=
essing":false,"align":null,"offset":false}" alt=3D=
"" width=3D"550" height=3D"447.15" src=3D"https://substackcdn.com/image/fet=
ch/$s_!slpv!,w_1100,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3=
A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff2f3268b-4f=
14-407d-88ac-7a429eb43d1e_1000x813.jpeg" style=3D"border: none !important;v=
ertical-align: middle;display: block;-ms-interpolation-mode: bicubic;height=
: auto;margin-bottom: 0;width: auto !important;max-width: 100% !important;m=
argin: 0 auto;"></a></td><td style=3D"text-align: center;"></td></tr></tbod=
y></table><figcaption class=3D"image-caption" style=3D"box-sizing: content-=
box;color: rgb(119,119,119);font-size: 14px;line-height: 20px;font-weight: =
400;letter-spacing: -.15px;margin-top: 8px;width: 70%;padding-left: 15%;pad=
ding-right: 15%;text-align: center;">Navy Office plaque at Seething Lane. T=
he Navy Office came close to being destroyed during the Great Fire of Londo=
n. Houses were demolished close to Seething Lane which prevented its destru=
ction. The office was eventually destroyed along with 30 other buildings in=
a fire of 1673. Pepys was fortunate to have saved his diary from the flame=
s. Image: Paul Kendall</figcaption></figure></div><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 2=
0px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;"><span>Pepys =
was sleeping at the Navy Office when he was woken by his servant Jane at 3a=
m on 2 September 1666. A fire was ablaze in London. He looked out of her wi=
ndow and thought it was a distance away, so he returned to bed. When he ros=
e again at 7am, he learned that 300 houses had been destroyed, and that the=
fire was now burning down Fish Street towards London Bridge. Pepys headed =
south along Seething Lane to All Hallows by the Tower, where he climbed to =
the steeple to witness the fire engulf the city.</span></p><div class=3D"ca=
ptioned-image-container-static" style=3D"font-size: 16px;line-height: 26px;=
margin: 32px auto;"><figure style=3D"width: 100%;margin: 0 auto;"><table cl=
ass=3D"image-wrapper" width=3D"100%" border=3D"0" cellspacing=3D"0" cellpad=
ding=3D"0" data-component-name=3D"Image2ToDOMStatic" style=3D"mso-padding-a=
lt: 1em 0 1.6em;"><tbody><tr><td style=3D"text-align: center;"></td><td cla=
ss=3D"content" align=3D"left" width=3D"1000" style=3D"text-align: center;">=
<a class=3D"image-link" target=3D"_blank" href=3D"https://substack.com/redi=
rect/87cf7800-4926-47e9-8002-a8177da6c093?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2v=
Cq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA" style=3D"position: relative;flex-direct=
ion: column;align-items: center;padding: 0;width: auto;height: auto;border:=
none;text-decoration: none;display: block;margin: 0;"><img class=3D"wide-i=
mage" data-attrs=3D"{"src":"https://substack-post-media.s3.a=
mazonaws.com/public/images/282f5266-0d2b-4ac6-a6bd-bdc2611c4f13_1000x1775.j=
peg","srcNoWatermark":null,"fullscreen":null,"=
;imageSize":null,"height":1775,"width":1000,"=
resizeWidth":null,"bytes":551115,"alt":null,"=
title":null,"type":"image/jpeg","href":n=
ull,"belowTheFold":true,"topImage":false,"internal=
Redirect":"https://londonist.substack.com/i/209266275?img=3Dhttps=
%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F282f5266-=
0d2b-4ac6-a6bd-bdc2611c4f13_1000x1775.jpeg","isProcessing":f=
alse,"align":null,"offset":false}" alt=3D"" width=3D"55=
0" height=3D"976.25" src=3D"https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Vdfd!,w=
_1100,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstac=
k-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F282f5266-0d2b-4ac6-a6bd-b=
dc2611c4f13_1000x1775.jpeg" style=3D"border: none !important;vertical-align=
: middle;display: block;-ms-interpolation-mode: bicubic;height: auto;margin=
-bottom: 0;width: auto !important;max-width: 100% !important;margin: 0 auto=
;"></a></td><td style=3D"text-align: center;"></td></tr></tbody></table><fi=
gcaption class=3D"image-caption" style=3D"box-sizing: content-box;color: rg=
b(119,119,119);font-size: 14px;line-height: 20px;font-weight: 400;letter-sp=
acing: -.15px;margin-top: 8px;width: 70%;padding-left: 15%;padding-right: 1=
5%;text-align: center;">All Hallows by the Tower. It was from its steeple w=
here, on two occasions, Samuel Pepys viewed the Great Fire of London. The c=
hurch was severely damaged during the Second World War; only the walls and =
the tower survived. Image: Paul Kendall</figcaption></figure></div><p style=
=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16=
px;"><span>As the flames ravaged London, Pepys decided to bury valuable ite=
ms </span><span>in the garden of the Navy Office</span><span>, including of=
ficial papers and personal items such as his wine collection and — mo=
st famously — his Parmesan cheese. </span></p><p style=3D"margin: 0 0=
20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;"><span>He r=
ecorded in his diary:</span></p><blockquote style=3D"border-left: 4px solid=
#51b4e9;margin: 20px 0;padding: 0;"><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: =
rgb(54,55,55);margin-left: 20px;line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;"><span>&=
#8216;The fire coming on in that narrow street [Tower Street], on both side=
s, with infinite fury. Sir W. Batten not knowing how to remove his wine, di=
d dig a pit in the garden, and laid it in there; and I took the opportunity=
of laying all the papers of my office that I could not otherwise dispose o=
f. And in the evening Sir W. Pen [sic Penn] and I did dig another and put o=
ur wine in it; and I my Parmazan [sic Parmesan] cheese, as well as my wine =
and some other things.’</span></p></blockquote><p style=3D"margin: 0 =
0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;"><span>The=
Navy Office survived the Great Fire of 1666, only to succumb to another fi=
re in 1673. The site is now a garden dedicated to Samuel Pepys. As well as =
the plaque to the Navy Office, a bust of Samuel Pepys stands in the centre =
of Seething Lane Garden. Pepys was passionate about playing and composing m=
usic. Inscribed on the memorial are musical scales relating to the song =
216;Beauty Retire’, which Pepys composed. Look also to the floor, whe=
re a number of stone carvings show objects relating to Pepys — includ=
ing the Parmesan.</span></p><div class=3D"captioned-image-container-static"=
style=3D"font-size: 16px;line-height: 26px;margin: 32px auto;"><figure sty=
le=3D"width: 100%;margin: 0 auto;"><table class=3D"image-wrapper" width=3D"=
100%" border=3D"0" cellspacing=3D"0" cellpadding=3D"0" data-component-name=
=3D"Image2ToDOMStatic" style=3D"mso-padding-alt: 1em 0 1.6em;"><tbody><tr><=
td style=3D"text-align: center;"></td><td class=3D"content" align=3D"left" =
width=3D"1000" style=3D"text-align: center;"><a class=3D"image-link" target=
=3D"_blank" href=3D"https://substack.com/redirect/304fecc8-a680-4685-a226-2=
e05c51b8e8c?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyr=
pKXA" style=3D"position: relative;flex-direction: column;align-items: cente=
r;padding: 0;width: auto;height: auto;border: none;text-decoration: none;di=
splay: block;margin: 0;"><img class=3D"wide-image" data-attrs=3D"{"src=
":"https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/e93=
0ef5d-90a1-41ae-96c4-8c60dc6d7b81_1000x750.jpeg","srcNoWatermark&=
quot;:null,"fullscreen":null,"imageSize":null,"hei=
ght":750,"width":1000,"resizeWidth":null,"byt=
es":384433,"alt":null,"title":null,"type"=
;:"image/jpeg","href":null,"belowTheFold":tru=
e,"topImage":false,"internalRedirect":"https://lon=
donist.substack.com/i/209266275?img=3Dhttps%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.=
amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fe930ef5d-90a1-41ae-96c4-8c60dc6d7b81_1000=
x750.jpeg","isProcessing":false,"align":null,"=
;offset":false}" alt=3D"" width=3D"550" height=3D"412.5" src=3D"https:=
//substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!q_RV!,w_1100,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,f=
l_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpu=
blic%2Fimages%2Fe930ef5d-90a1-41ae-96c4-8c60dc6d7b81_1000x750.jpeg" style=
=3D"border: none !important;vertical-align: middle;display: block;-ms-inter=
polation-mode: bicubic;height: auto;margin-bottom: 0;width: auto !important=
;max-width: 100% !important;margin: 0 auto;"></a></td><td style=3D"text-ali=
gn: center;"></td></tr></tbody></table><figcaption class=3D"image-caption" =
style=3D"box-sizing: content-box;color: rgb(119,119,119);font-size: 14px;li=
ne-height: 20px;font-weight: 400;letter-spacing: -.15px;margin-top: 8px;wid=
th: 70%;padding-left: 15%;padding-right: 15%;text-align: center;">Samuel Pe=
pys memorial in Seething Lane Garden. Image: Paul Kendall</figcaption></fig=
ure></div><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: =
26px;font-size: 16px;"><span>St Olave’s Church is located at the nort=
h end of Seething Lane. Pepys frequently worshipped here where he had his o=
wn pew. It was where he and his wife Elisabeth were buried. Various memoria=
ls to the pair can be found within.</span></p><h2 class=3D"header-anchor-po=
st" style=3D"position: relative;font-family: 'SF Pro Display',-apple-system=
-headline,system-ui,-apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFont,'Segoe UI',Roboto,Helv=
etica,Arial,sans-serif,'Apple Color Emoji','Segoe UI Emoji','Segoe UI Symbo=
l';font-weight: bold;-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased;-moz-osx-font-smoo=
thing: antialiased;-webkit-appearance: optimizelegibility;-moz-appearance: =
optimizelegibility;appearance: optimizelegibility;margin: 1em 0 0.625em 0;c=
olor: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 1.16em;overflow-wrap: break-word;word-brea=
k: keep-all;font-size: calc(1.625em * 1);"><span>2. Banqueting House, White=
hall</span></h2><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-he=
ight: 26px;font-size: 16px;"><span>Pepys was a staunch Roundhead during his=
youth and on 30 January 1649, he witnessed the execution of King Charles I=
at the Banqueting House, which formed part of Whitehall Palace. Eleven yea=
rs later his allegiance had transferred to the monarchy. In his role as Cle=
rk of the Acts of the Navy Board, Pepys was a frequent visitor to the Banqu=
eting House.</span></p><div class=3D"captioned-image-container-static" styl=
e=3D"font-size: 16px;line-height: 26px;margin: 32px auto;"><figure style=3D=
"width: 100%;margin: 0 auto;"><table class=3D"image-wrapper" width=3D"100%"=
border=3D"0" cellspacing=3D"0" cellpadding=3D"0" data-component-name=3D"Im=
age2ToDOMStatic" style=3D"mso-padding-alt: 1em 0 1.6em;"><tbody><tr><td sty=
le=3D"text-align: center;"></td><td class=3D"content" align=3D"left" width=
=3D"1000" style=3D"text-align: center;"><a class=3D"image-link" target=3D"_=
blank" href=3D"https://substack.com/redirect/ca96c320-e820-4daf-bfe2-7ae2aa=
d8c853?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA"=
style=3D"position: relative;flex-direction: column;align-items: center;pad=
ding: 0;width: auto;height: auto;border: none;text-decoration: none;display=
: block;margin: 0;"><img class=3D"wide-image" data-attrs=3D"{"src"=
;:"https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/b05b0ecd=
-12cb-41f9-b286-13d7588e386e_1000x563.jpeg","srcNoWatermark"=
:null,"fullscreen":null,"imageSize":null,"height&q=
uot;:563,"width":1000,"resizeWidth":null,"bytes&qu=
ot;:237439,"alt":null,"title":null,"type":&qu=
ot;image/jpeg","href":null,"belowTheFold":true,&qu=
ot;topImage":false,"internalRedirect":"https://londonis=
t.substack.com/i/209266275?img=3Dhttps%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazo=
naws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fb05b0ecd-12cb-41f9-b286-13d7588e386e_1000x563.=
jpeg","isProcessing":false,"align":null,"offs=
et":false}" alt=3D"" width=3D"550" height=3D"309.65" src=3D"https://su=
bstackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!qU2g!,w_1100,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_pr=
ogressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic=
%2Fimages%2Fb05b0ecd-12cb-41f9-b286-13d7588e386e_1000x563.jpeg" style=3D"bo=
rder: none !important;vertical-align: middle;display: block;-ms-interpolati=
on-mode: bicubic;height: auto;margin-bottom: 0;width: auto !important;max-w=
idth: 100% !important;margin: 0 auto;"></a></td><td style=3D"text-align: ce=
nter;"></td></tr></tbody></table><figcaption class=3D"image-caption" style=
=3D"box-sizing: content-box;color: rgb(119,119,119);font-size: 14px;line-he=
ight: 20px;font-weight: 400;letter-spacing: -.15px;margin-top: 8px;width: 7=
0%;padding-left: 15%;padding-right: 15%;text-align: center;">Banqueting Hou=
se, Whitehall. King James II commissioned Inigo Jones to build Banqueting H=
ouse, which was completed in 1622. This is the only complete section of the=
Palace of Whitehall that survives today. Image: Paul Kendall.</figcaption>=
</figure></div><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-hei=
ght: 26px;font-size: 16px;"><span>On 23 August 1662, Pepys watched from the=
roof of Banqueting House, as Queen Catherine’s river procession retu=
rned to London from Hampton Court Palace. He wrote:</span></p><blockquote s=
tyle=3D"border-left: 4px solid #51b4e9;margin: 20px 0;padding: 0;"><p style=
=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);margin-left: 20px;line-height: =
26px;font-size: 16px;"><span>‘Up to the top of the new Banqueting Hou=
se there, over the Thames, which was a most pleasant place as any I could h=
ave got; and all the show consisted chiefly in the number of boats and barg=
es; and two pageants, one of a King, and another of a Queen’.</span><=
/p></blockquote><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-he=
ight: 26px;font-size: 16px;"><span>The pageantry on the River Thames was no=
t the main event in the diary during that day, however, for Pepys was oglin=
g Barbara Palmer, Countess of Castlemaine, a lady who was unattainable but =
the focus of his desire nonetheless. He confided, ‘that which pleased=
me best was, that my Lady Castlemaine stood over against us upon a piece o=
f White Hall, where I glutted myself with looking on her.’</span></p>=
<p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-=
size: 16px;"><span>The Banqueting House was a place where King Charles II d=
iscussed matters of state, received foreign dignitaries and rewarded his su=
bjects. Sometimes Pepys was present during those occasions. He was there on=
29 December 1662, watching from the gallery as the King received Russian a=
mbassadors. He did not feel safe:</span></p><blockquote style=3D"border-lef=
t: 4px solid #51b4e9;margin: 20px 0;padding: 0;"><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20=
px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);margin-left: 20px;line-height: 26px;font-size: 16=
px;"><span>‘Thence to White Hall, and got up to the top gallerys [sic=
galleries] in the Banquetting [sic], to see the audience of the Russian Em=
bassadors [sic]; which [took place] after long waiting and fear of the fall=
ing of the gallery (it being so full, and part of it being parted from the =
rest, for nobody to come up merely from the weakness thereof): and very han=
dsome it was’.</span></p></blockquote><h2 class=3D"header-anchor-post=
" style=3D"position: relative;font-family: 'SF Pro Display',-apple-system-h=
eadline,system-ui,-apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFont,'Segoe UI',Roboto,Helvet=
ica,Arial,sans-serif,'Apple Color Emoji','Segoe UI Emoji','Segoe UI Symbol'=
;font-weight: bold;-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased;-moz-osx-font-smooth=
ing: antialiased;-webkit-appearance: optimizelegibility;-moz-appearance: op=
timizelegibility;appearance: optimizelegibility;margin: 1em 0 0.625em 0;col=
or: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 1.16em;overflow-wrap: break-word;word-break:=
keep-all;font-size: calc(1.625em * 1);"><strong><span>3. St Margaret’=
;s Church, Westminster</span></strong></h2><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;c=
olor: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;"><span>Pepys married=
Elisabeth St Michel at St Margaret’s Church on 10 October 1655. She =
was 14 (it was two weeks before her 15th birthday) and he was 23.</span></p=
><div class=3D"captioned-image-container-static" style=3D"font-size: 16px;l=
ine-height: 26px;margin: 32px auto;"><figure style=3D"width: 100%;margin: 0=
auto;"><table class=3D"image-wrapper" width=3D"100%" border=3D"0" cellspac=
ing=3D"0" cellpadding=3D"0" data-component-name=3D"Image2ToDOMStatic" style=
=3D"mso-padding-alt: 1em 0 1.6em;"><tbody><tr><td style=3D"text-align: cent=
er;"></td><td class=3D"content" align=3D"left" width=3D"1000" style=3D"text=
-align: center;"><a class=3D"image-link" target=3D"_blank" href=3D"https://=
substack.com/redirect/e6a96ea8-7f9b-4691-a6b3-139142ec9a36?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmls=
c241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA" style=3D"position: rel=
ative;flex-direction: column;align-items: center;padding: 0;width: auto;hei=
ght: auto;border: none;text-decoration: none;display: block;margin: 0;"><im=
g class=3D"wide-image" data-attrs=3D"{"src":"https://substac=
k-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/e8d5192b-0671-4f21-b395-d44dcaf=
c945a_1000x563.jpeg","srcNoWatermark":null,"fullscreen&=
quot;:null,"imageSize":null,"height":563,"width&qu=
ot;:1000,"resizeWidth":null,"bytes":271911,"alt&qu=
ot;:null,"title":null,"type":"image/jpeg",&qu=
ot;href":null,"belowTheFold":true,"topImage":false=
,"internalRedirect":"https://londonist.substack.com/i/209266=
275?img=3Dhttps%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fima=
ges%2Fe8d5192b-0671-4f21-b395-d44dcafc945a_1000x563.jpeg","isProc=
essing":false,"align":null,"offset":false}" alt=3D=
"" width=3D"550" height=3D"309.65" src=3D"https://substackcdn.com/image/fet=
ch/$s_!Kt_Y!,w_1100,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3=
A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fe8d5192b-06=
71-4f21-b395-d44dcafc945a_1000x563.jpeg" style=3D"border: none !important;v=
ertical-align: middle;display: block;-ms-interpolation-mode: bicubic;height=
: auto;margin-bottom: 0;width: auto !important;max-width: 100% !important;m=
argin: 0 auto;"></a></td><td style=3D"text-align: center;"></td></tr></tbod=
y></table><figcaption class=3D"image-caption" style=3D"box-sizing: content-=
box;color: rgb(119,119,119);font-size: 14px;line-height: 20px;font-weight: =
400;letter-spacing: -.15px;margin-top: 8px;width: 70%;padding-left: 15%;pad=
ding-right: 15%;text-align: center;">St Margaret’s Church, Westminste=
r. In 1665 a pit was dug in the grounds of St Margaret’s in which to =
bury victims of the plague. Image: Paul Kendall</figcaption></figure></div>=
<p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-=
size: 16px;"><span>Despite Elisabeth being an attractive woman, Pepys was u=
nable to live by his marriage vows and be faithful to her. He took various =
mistresses and, sadly, he was a serial womaniser, stalker and molester. One=
target was Betty Howlett, daughter of a bookseller in Westminster Hall, wh=
om he enjoyed ogling in the very church where he had made his wedding vows.=
Howlett was at St Margaret’s with her husband and parents on 13 May =
1666, when Pepys records:</span></p><blockquote style=3D"border-left: 4px s=
olid #51b4e9;margin: 20px 0;padding: 0;"><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;col=
or: rgb(54,55,55);margin-left: 20px;line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;"><sp=
an>‘…through to Westminster, and fell by chance into St Margare=
t’s Church, where I heard a young man play the fall upon the doctrine=
of purgatory. At this church I spied Betty Howlett, who indeed is mighty p=
retty, and struck me mightily’.</span></p></blockquote><p style=3D"ma=
rgin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;"><=
span>Pepys would commit further misdemeanours in St Margaret’s Church=
=2E On 26 May 1667, he records:</span>=
</p><blockquote style=3D"border-left: 4=
px solid #51b4e9;margin: 20px 0;padding: 0;"><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0=
;color: rgb(54,55,55);margin-left: 20px;line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;"=
><span>‘After dinner I by water alone to Westminster … did go t=
o the parish church … I did entertain myself with my perspective glas=
s [a kind of telescope] up and down the church, by which I had the great pl=
easure of seeing and gazing at a great many very fine women; and what with =
that, and sleeping, I passed away the time till sermon was done, and then t=
o Mrs. Martin [his mistress of the time], and there staid with her an hour =
or two, and there did what I would with her’.</span></p></blockquote>=
<p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-=
size: 16px;"><span>He did occasionally pay attention to the sermons. Preach=
ing from the Book of Common Prayer in church had been forbidden under the r=
ule of Oliver Cromwell since 1649, but at St Margaret’s Church on 5 A=
ugust 1660 Pepys wrote: ‘After dinner to St Margaret’s, where t=
he first time I ever heard Common Prayer in the church.’</span></p><d=
iv class=3D"subscribe-widget is-signed-up" data-component-name=3D"Subscribe=
Widget" style=3D"margin: 0 0 1em;direction: ltr;font-size: 16px;line-height=
: 26px;"><div class=3D"pencraft pc-reset button-wrapper" style=3D"text-deco=
ration: unset;list-style: none;font-size: 16px;line-height: 26px;text-align=
: center;cursor: pointer;border-radius: 4px;"><a class=3D"button subscribe-=
btn primary" href=3D"https://substack.com/redirect/2/eyJlIjoiaHR0cHM6Ly9sb2=
5kb25pc3Quc3Vic3RhY2suY29tL3N1YnNjcmliZT91dG1fc291cmNlPXBvc3QmdXRtX2NhbXBha=
WduPWVtYWlsLWNoZWNrb3V0Jm5leHQ9aHR0cHMlM0ElMkYlMkZsb25kb25pc3Quc3Vic3RhY2su=
Y29tJTJGcCUyRnRoZS1sb25kb24tb2Ytc2FtdWVsLXBlcHlzJnI9Mmlsc241JnRva2VuPWV5SjF=
jMlZ5WDJsa0lqb3hOVEl4T0RJek16Y3NJbWxoZENJNk1UYzROVGt4TWpBME5Dd2laWGh3SWpveE=
56ZzROVEEwTURRMExDSnBjM01pT2lKd2RXSXRNVFkyTXpZNE5TSXNJbk4xWWlJNkltTm9aV05yY=
jNWMEluMC5YZ0dWUzZweFVFb3QwMEFkR1hUVWhsalJaS0RhMGw5S2VKbW5oTmFINE9JIiwicCI6=
MjA5MjY2Mjc1LCJzIjoxNjYzNjg1LCJmIjp0cnVlLCJ1IjoxNTIxODIzMzcsImlhdCI6MTc4NTk=
xMjA0NCwiZXhwIjoyMTAxNDg4MDQ0LCJpc3MiOiJwdWItMCIsInN1YiI6ImxpbmstcmVkaXJlY3=
QifQ.-_Ss5ezce_7x-9U92tAcerXBcI5s9QZFBiPOY67_haw?&utm_medium=3Demail&utm_so=
urce=3Dsubscribe-widget&utm_content=3D209266275" style=3D"font-family: syst=
em-ui,-apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFont,'Segoe UI',Roboto,Helvetica,Arial,sa=
ns-serif,'Apple Color Emoji','Segoe UI Emoji','Segoe UI Symbol';display: in=
line-block;box-sizing: border-box;cursor: pointer;border: none;border-radiu=
s: 8px;font-size: 14px;line-height: 20px;font-weight: 600;text-align: cente=
r;opacity: 1;outline: none;white-space: nowrap;text-decoration: none !impor=
tant;margin: 0 auto;background-color: #51b4e9;color: #ffffff !important;pad=
ding: 12px 20px;height: auto;"><span style=3D"color: #ffffff;text-decoratio=
n: none;">Upgrade to paid</span></a></div></div><h2 class=3D"header-anchor-=
post" style=3D"position: relative;font-family: 'SF Pro Display',-apple-syst=
em-headline,system-ui,-apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFont,'Segoe UI',Roboto,He=
lvetica,Arial,sans-serif,'Apple Color Emoji','Segoe UI Emoji','Segoe UI Sym=
bol';font-weight: bold;-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased;-moz-osx-font-sm=
oothing: antialiased;-webkit-appearance: optimizelegibility;-moz-appearance=
: optimizelegibility;appearance: optimizelegibility;margin: 1em 0 0.625em 0=
;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 1.16em;overflow-wrap: break-word;word-br=
eak: keep-all;font-size: calc(1.625em * 1);"><strong><span>4. Prince Henry&=
#8217;s Room, Fleet Street</span></strong></h2><div class=3D"captioned-imag=
e-container-static" style=3D"font-size: 16px;line-height: 26px;margin: 32px=
auto;"><figure style=3D"width: 100%;margin: 0 auto;"><table class=3D"image=
-wrapper" width=3D"100%" border=3D"0" cellspacing=3D"0" cellpadding=3D"0" d=
ata-component-name=3D"Image2ToDOMStatic" style=3D"mso-padding-alt: 1em 0 1.=
6em;"><tbody><tr><td style=3D"text-align: center;"></td><td class=3D"conten=
t" align=3D"left" width=3D"1000" style=3D"text-align: center;"><a class=3D"=
image-link" target=3D"_blank" href=3D"https://substack.com/redirect/b176ae1=
9-c775-44c9-86a0-502a06793693?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9h=
VTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA" style=3D"position: relative;flex-direction: column;=
align-items: center;padding: 0;width: auto;height: auto;border: none;text-d=
ecoration: none;display: block;margin: 0;"><img class=3D"wide-image" data-a=
ttrs=3D"{"src":"https://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com=
/public/images/8c890871-a36d-4034-aefd-19462dca43d6_1000x1775.jpeg",&q=
uot;srcNoWatermark":null,"fullscreen":null,"imageSize&q=
uot;:null,"height":1775,"width":1000,"resizeWidth&=
quot;:null,"bytes":686930,"alt":null,"title":=
null,"type":"image/jpeg","href":null,"be=
lowTheFold":true,"topImage":false,"internalRedirect&quo=
t;:"https://londonist.substack.com/i/209266275?img=3Dhttps%3A%2F%2Fsub=
stack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8c890871-a36d-4034-ae=
fd-19462dca43d6_1000x1775.jpeg","isProcessing":false,"a=
lign":null,"offset":false}" alt=3D"" width=3D"550" height=3D=
"976.25" src=3D"https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!Xmjo!,w_1100,c_limi=
t,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media=
=2Es3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2=
F8c890871-a36d-4034-aefd-19462dca43d6_=
1000x1775.jpeg" style=3D"border: none !important;vertical-align: middle;dis=
play: block;-ms-interpolation-mode: bicubic;height: auto;margin-bottom: 0;w=
idth: auto !important;max-width: 100% !important;margin: 0 auto;"></a></td>=
<td style=3D"text-align: center;"></td></tr></tbody></table><figcaption cla=
ss=3D"image-caption" style=3D"box-sizing: content-box;color: rgb(119,119,11=
9);font-size: 14px;line-height: 20px;font-weight: 400;letter-spacing: -.15p=
x;margin-top: 8px;width: 70%;padding-left: 15%;padding-right: 15%;text-alig=
n: center;">Prince Henry’s Room was known to Samuel Pepys as the Foun=
tain Tavern. Image: Paul Kendall</figcaption></figure></div><p style=3D"mar=
gin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;"><s=
pan>Pepys visited this building when it was known as the Fountain Tavern. L=
ocated at 17 Fleet Street, Prince Henry’s Room is one of the few City=
buildings that survived the Great Fire into our own time. It was built c.1=
610, during the same year as Prince Henry, son of King James I, was investe=
d as the Prince of Wales – hence the building was named the Prince=
217;s Tavern. Pepys describes drinking here in his diary several times, at =
a time when it was known as the Fountain.</span></p><p style=3D"margin: 0 0=
20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;"><span>On 1=
4 October 1661, Pepys visited with William Pym, the tailor of Sir Edward Mo=
ntagu, Earl of Sandwich, who was based in the Strand close to the tavern. O=
n that night they celebrated the birthday of James, Duke of York. Pepys wro=
te: ‘And there he [Pym] went with us to the Fountain tavern and did g=
ive us store of wine.’ Pepys also spent a raucous evening here on 28 =
November 1661: ‘To the Fountain tavern, and there staid till twelve a=
t night drinking and singing.’</span></p><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px=
0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;"><span>Prince He=
nry’s Room still stands, and gives an idea of how Fleet Street must h=
ave looked when Pepys walked through it on business to Whitehall or when re=
turning from an alcohol-fuelled evening.</span></p><h2 class=3D"header-anch=
or-post" style=3D"position: relative;font-family: 'SF Pro Display',-apple-s=
ystem-headline,system-ui,-apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFont,'Segoe UI',Roboto=
,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif,'Apple Color Emoji','Segoe UI Emoji','Segoe UI =
Symbol';font-weight: bold;-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased;-moz-osx-font=
-smoothing: antialiased;-webkit-appearance: optimizelegibility;-moz-appeara=
nce: optimizelegibility;appearance: optimizelegibility;margin: 1em 0 0.625e=
m 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 1.16em;overflow-wrap: break-word;word=
-break: keep-all;font-size: calc(1.625em * 1);"><strong><span>5. Samuel Pep=
ys’ House, 12 Buckingham Street, Westminster</span></strong></h2><div=
class=3D"captioned-image-container-static" style=3D"font-size: 16px;line-h=
eight: 26px;margin: 32px auto;"><figure style=3D"width: 100%;margin: 0 auto=
;"><table class=3D"image-wrapper" width=3D"100%" border=3D"0" cellspacing=
=3D"0" cellpadding=3D"0" data-component-name=3D"Image2ToDOMStatic" style=3D=
"mso-padding-alt: 1em 0 1.6em;"><tbody><tr><td style=3D"text-align: center;=
"></td><td class=3D"content" align=3D"left" width=3D"1000" style=3D"text-al=
ign: center;"><a class=3D"image-link" target=3D"_blank" href=3D"https://sub=
stack.com/redirect/27c859aa-c3c1-4b82-ad42-3695aa0b004b?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc24=
1In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA" style=3D"position: relati=
ve;flex-direction: column;align-items: center;padding: 0;width: auto;height=
: auto;border: none;text-decoration: none;display: block;margin: 0;"><img c=
lass=3D"wide-image" data-attrs=3D"{"src":"https://substack-p=
ost-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/005b22c8-4ebd-4d74-8c00-cdf67f326a=
7a_1000x1775.jpeg","srcNoWatermark":null,"fullscreen&qu=
ot;:null,"imageSize":null,"height":1775,"width&quo=
t;:1000,"resizeWidth":null,"bytes":572077,"alt&quo=
t;:null,"title":null,"type":"image/jpeg",&quo=
t;href":null,"belowTheFold":true,"topImage":false,=
"internalRedirect":"https://londonist.substack.com/i/2092662=
75?img=3Dhttps%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimag=
es%2F005b22c8-4ebd-4d74-8c00-cdf67f326a7a_1000x1775.jpeg","isProc=
essing":false,"align":null,"offset":false}" alt=3D=
"" width=3D"550" height=3D"976.25" src=3D"https://substackcdn.com/image/fet=
ch/$s_!d8oi!,w_1100,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3=
A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F005b22c8-4e=
bd-4d74-8c00-cdf67f326a7a_1000x1775.jpeg" style=3D"border: none !important;=
vertical-align: middle;display: block;-ms-interpolation-mode: bicubic;heigh=
t: auto;margin-bottom: 0;width: auto !important;max-width: 100% !important;=
margin: 0 auto;"></a></td><td style=3D"text-align: center;"></td></tr></tbo=
dy></table><figcaption class=3D"image-caption" style=3D"box-sizing: content=
-box;color: rgb(119,119,119);font-size: 14px;line-height: 20px;font-weight:=
400;letter-spacing: -.15px;margin-top: 8px;width: 70%;padding-left: 15%;pa=
dding-right: 15%;text-align: center;">Pepys’ home from 1679 to 1688 a=
t 12 Buckingham Street, located south of the Strand. It is Pepys’ onl=
y surviving residence in London. Image: Paul Kendall</figcaption></figure><=
/div><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;=
font-size: 16px;"><span>This building is Pepys’ only existing London =
abode, and it was his home from July 1679 to 1688. This was a difficult tim=
e for Pepys. He had been arrested and imprisoned in the Tower on suspicion =
of holding Catholic sympathies. Released on bail, he moved into the </span>=
<span>home of his friend and former clerk Will Hewer. Though free, he still=
had to prepare his defence against charges of treason.</span></p><p style=
=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16=
px;"><span>Pepys continued to live here after his acquittal, residing with =
Mary Skinner, with whom he had been in a relationship since around 1670, fo=
llowing the death of his wife, Elisabeth, in 1669.</span></p><div class=3D"=
captioned-image-container-static" style=3D"font-size: 16px;line-height: 26p=
x;margin: 32px auto;"><figure style=3D"width: 100%;margin: 0 auto;"><table =
class=3D"image-wrapper" width=3D"100%" border=3D"0" cellspacing=3D"0" cellp=
adding=3D"0" data-component-name=3D"Image2ToDOMStatic" style=3D"mso-padding=
-alt: 1em 0 1.6em;"><tbody><tr><td style=3D"text-align: center;"></td><td c=
lass=3D"content" align=3D"left" width=3D"1000" style=3D"text-align: center;=
"><a class=3D"image-link" target=3D"_blank" href=3D"https://substack.com/re=
direct/af12b764-8671-4045-911f-2653e3e08573?j=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC=
2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA" style=3D"position: relative;flex-dire=
ction: column;align-items: center;padding: 0;width: auto;height: auto;borde=
r: none;text-decoration: none;display: block;margin: 0;"><img class=3D"wide=
-image" data-attrs=3D"{"src":"https://substack-post-media.s3=
=2Eamazonaws.com/public/images/0d24f19d=
-a3ab-4300-aabc-4fefe6df517e_1000x915.=
jpeg","srcNoWatermark":null,"fullscreen":null,&quo=
t;imageSize":null,"height":915,"width":1000,"=
resizeWidth":null,"bytes":286185,"alt":null,"=
title":null,"type":"image/jpeg","href":n=
ull,"belowTheFold":true,"topImage":false,"internal=
Redirect":"https://londonist.substack.com/i/209266275?img=3Dhttps=
%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F0d24f19d-=
a3ab-4300-aabc-4fefe6df517e_1000x915.jpeg","isProcessing":fa=
lse,"align":null,"offset":false}" alt=3D"" width=3D"550=
" height=3D"503.25" src=3D"https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!R1y4!,w_=
1100,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack=
-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F0d24f19d-a3ab-4300-aabc-4f=
efe6df517e_1000x915.jpeg" style=3D"border: none !important;vertical-align: =
middle;display: block;-ms-interpolation-mode: bicubic;height: auto;margin-b=
ottom: 0;width: auto !important;max-width: 100% !important;margin: 0 auto;"=
></a></td><td style=3D"text-align: center;"></td></tr></tbody></table><figc=
aption class=3D"image-caption" style=3D"box-sizing: content-box;color: rgb(=
119,119,119);font-size: 14px;line-height: 20px;font-weight: 400;letter-spac=
ing: -.15px;margin-top: 8px;width: 70%;padding-left: 15%;padding-right: 15%=
;text-align: center;">Plaque commemorating Pepys’ occupancy of this h=
ouse. Image: Paul Kendall</figcaption></figure></div><p style=3D"margin: 0 =
0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;"><span>In =
1684, Pepys was reappointed in a new role as Secretary for Admiralty Affair=
s, reporting directly to the king at Windsor Castle. However, similar to th=
e situation at the Navy Office in Seething Lane, which served as his home a=
nd place of work, Pepys preferred to use this residence as his office for t=
he new role, for which the king granted him permission. By arrangement with=
Hewer, who relinquished the lease of the house, Pepys was able to transfer=
his staff at the Admiralty Office from Derby House and relocate the office=
to Buckingham Street.</span></p><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(=
54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;"><span>Pepys lived here until =
1688, and this house is Pepys’ only London residence to have survived=
=2E The building has retained an old oa=
k stairway that would have been used b=
y Pepys.</span></p><h2 class=3D"header-anchor-post" style=3D"position: rela=
tive;font-family: 'SF Pro Display',-apple-system-headline,system-ui,-apple-=
system,BlinkMacSystemFont,'Segoe UI',Roboto,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif,'App=
le Color Emoji','Segoe UI Emoji','Segoe UI Symbol';font-weight: bold;-webki=
t-font-smoothing: antialiased;-moz-osx-font-smoothing: antialiased;-webkit-=
appearance: optimizelegibility;-moz-appearance: optimizelegibility;appearan=
ce: optimizelegibility;margin: 1em 0 0.625em 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-he=
ight: 1.16em;overflow-wrap: break-word;word-break: keep-all;font-size: calc=
(1.625em * 1);"><strong><span>6. Stone Entrance to Gatehouse Prison</span><=
/strong></h2><div class=3D"captioned-image-container-static" style=3D"font-=
size: 16px;line-height: 26px;margin: 32px auto;"><figure style=3D"width: 10=
0%;margin: 0 auto;"><table class=3D"image-wrapper" width=3D"100%" border=3D=
"0" cellspacing=3D"0" cellpadding=3D"0" data-component-name=3D"Image2ToDOMS=
tatic" style=3D"mso-padding-alt: 1em 0 1.6em;"><tbody><tr><td style=3D"text=
-align: center;"></td><td class=3D"content" align=3D"left" width=3D"1000" s=
tyle=3D"text-align: center;"><a class=3D"image-link" target=3D"_blank" href=
=3D"https://substack.com/redirect/d7a301ce-fd2f-497f-b164-af3a94503ccf?j=3D=
eyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA" style=3D"p=
osition: relative;flex-direction: column;align-items: center;padding: 0;wid=
th: auto;height: auto;border: none;text-decoration: none;display: block;mar=
gin: 0;"><img class=3D"wide-image" data-attrs=3D"{"src":"htt=
ps://substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/3c86a2b8-b08d-470c-=
ad5d-9c1a40782725_1000x1775.jpeg","srcNoWatermark":null,&quo=
t;fullscreen":null,"imageSize":null,"height":1775,=
"width":1000,"resizeWidth":null,"bytes":57520=
5,"alt":null,"title":null,"type":"image/=
jpeg","href":null,"belowTheFold":true,"topIma=
ge":false,"internalRedirect":"https://londonist.substac=
k.com/i/209266275?img=3Dhttps%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%=
2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F3c86a2b8-b08d-470c-ad5d-9c1a40782725_1000x1775.jpeg&quo=
t;,"isProcessing":false,"align":null,"offset"=
:false}" alt=3D"" width=3D"550" height=3D"976.25" src=3D"https://substackcd=
n.com/image/fetch/$s_!yR3b!,w_1100,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressiv=
e:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimage=
s%2F3c86a2b8-b08d-470c-ad5d-9c1a40782725_1000x1775.jpeg" style=3D"border: n=
one !important;vertical-align: middle;display: block;-ms-interpolation-mode=
: bicubic;height: auto;margin-bottom: 0;width: auto !important;max-width: 1=
00% !important;margin: 0 auto;"></a></td><td style=3D"text-align: center;">=
</td></tr></tbody></table><figcaption class=3D"image-caption" style=3D"box-=
sizing: content-box;color: rgb(119,119,119);font-size: 14px;line-height: 20=
px;font-weight: 400;letter-spacing: -.15px;margin-top: 8px;width: 70%;paddi=
ng-left: 15%;padding-right: 15%;text-align: center;">Stone entrance to Gate=
house Prison, situated close to Westminster Abbey. Image: Paul Kendall</fig=
caption></figure></div><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);=
line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;"><span>Built in 1370 close to the wester=
n entrance of Westminster Abbey, this stone gateway is the only remnant of =
the jail where Samuel Pepys was briefly imprisoned. On 4 May 1689, Pepys wa=
s arrested on the charge of treason against King William III, and of being =
a Jacobite in an effort to restore James II to the throne. Once again, Pepy=
s was the victim of wrongful arrest for charges that were false and unfound=
ed. </span></p><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-hei=
ght: 26px;font-size: 16px;"><span>He was locked up in the Gatehouse Prison =
until 15 June. Lord Braybrooke wrote of Pepys’ incarceration: </span>=
</p><blockquote style=3D"border-left: 4px solid #51b4e9;margin: 20px 0;padd=
ing: 0;"><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);margin-left: 2=
0px;line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;"><span>‘…they procured h=
is comital to the Gate-house, upon pretence of his being affected to King J=
ames; but he was soon permitted, on account of ill health, to return to his=
own house and there is no further mention of the charge.’ </span></p=
></blockquote><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-heig=
ht: 26px;font-size: 16px;"><span>This was a pivotal moment because, from th=
en on, Pepys withdrew from public life.</span></p><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 2=
0px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;"><span>The Ga=
tehouse Prison was demolished in 1776 and the stone entrance is the only re=
mnant to survive. It was returned to its original site in 1969.</span></p><=
div style=3D"font-size: 16px;line-height: 26px;"><hr style=3D"margin: 32px =
0;padding: 0;height: 1px;background: rgb(0,0,0,.1);border: none;"></div><p =
style=3D"margin: 0 0 20px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-siz=
e: 16px;"><span>To discover another 44 places and objects, read </span><a h=
ref=3D"https://substack.com/redirect/d6bed1b9-e5b5-4dd2-ab70-f49c5b4f8eba?j=
=3DeyJ1IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA" style=
=3D"color: #51b4e9;text-decoration: none;"><span>Samuel Pepys in 50 Places =
and Objects</span></a><span> by Paul Kendall, now available from Amberley.<=
/span></p><div class=3D"captioned-image-container-static" style=3D"font-siz=
e: 16px;line-height: 26px;margin: 32px auto;"><figure style=3D"width: 100%;=
margin: 0 auto;"><table class=3D"image-wrapper" width=3D"100%" border=3D"0"=
cellspacing=3D"0" cellpadding=3D"0" data-component-name=3D"Image2ToDOMStat=
ic" style=3D"mso-padding-alt: 1em 0 1.6em;"><tbody><tr><td style=3D"text-al=
ign: center;"></td><td class=3D"content" align=3D"left" width=3D"845" style=
=3D"text-align: center;"><a class=3D"image-link" target=3D"_blank" href=3D"=
https://substack.com/redirect/4b4c1094-48fa-4676-9f25-be34d665308b?j=3DeyJ1=
IjoiMmlsc241In0.TfBByzC2vCq-pY94WhF9hVTcrDRYs6QySyrNvyrpKXA" style=3D"posit=
ion: relative;flex-direction: column;align-items: center;padding: 0;width: =
auto;height: auto;border: none;text-decoration: none;display: block;margin:=
0;"><img class=3D"wide-image" data-attrs=3D"{"src":"https:/=
/substack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com/public/images/95605ee2-64b5-43c2-bd7d=
-8c226a9d343d_845x1200.jpeg","srcNoWatermark":null,"ful=
lscreen":null,"imageSize":null,"height":1200,"=
;width":845,"resizeWidth":null,"bytes":null,"=
alt":"Samuel Pepys in 50 Places and Objects","title&quo=
t;:null,"type":null,"href":null,"belowTheFold"=
;:true,"topImage":false,"internalRedirect":null,"i=
sProcessing":false,"align":null,"offset":false}" a=
lt=3D"Samuel Pepys in 50 Places and Objects" title=3D"Samuel Pepys in 50 Pl=
aces and Objects" width=3D"550" height=3D"781.0650887573964" src=3D"https:/=
/substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!mcrg!,w_1100,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl=
_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpub=
lic%2Fimages%2F95605ee2-64b5-43c2-bd7d-8c226a9d343d_845x1200.jpeg" style=3D=
"border: none !important;vertical-align: middle;display: block;-ms-interpol=
ation-mode: bicubic;height: auto;margin-bottom: 0;width: auto !important;ma=
x-width: 100% !important;margin: 0 auto;"></a></td><td style=3D"text-align:=
center;"></td></tr></tbody></table></figure></div><div style=3D"font-size:=
16px;line-height: 26px;"><hr style=3D"margin: 32px 0;padding: 0;height: 1p=
x;background: rgb(0,0,0,.1);border: none;"></div><p style=3D"margin: 0 0 20=
px 0;color: rgb(54,55,55);line-height: 26px;font-size: 16px;"><em>Thanks fo=
r reading this guest post. Your regular author Matt will be back on Friday =
with something a bit playful. Email him any time on matt@londonist.com</em>=
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